Chronograph

[Mr.Snerdly]

This might not be the right forum but here goes--I am thinking of getting a chronograph. I was surprised that they seem quite reasonably priced, at least some of them, assuming they are adequate. Would this one be serviceable?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015050210?pid=626107

[Dave Hoback]

The Caldwell is used by COUNTLESS shooters for the last many years! It can have an accuracy issue, but not typically during a sustained shooting session. More successful that I’ve seen anyway. I’m sure the Labradar will be touted as the one to get, which is a dang Doppler Radar Chrono that can measure speed like....like.., well.. like a darn DOPPLER RADAR for crying out loud!! And then it will take you out for a nice candle lit dinner, wash your car & I believe it might even do your taxes(but I haven’t confirmed). Some people need that I guess. To me, it’s like using a $300+ Bipod. I rather spend $50 on a Bipod. And yeah.. I’d do the Caldwell and spend the other $525 on reloading supplies, magazines, etc. Shoot, you can even grab the Caldwell off Amazon.

[Fuj']

Get the Caldwel if just doing ocassional velocity check's. Problem with
these is, you may accidently put a bullet in it, or sooner or later on
purpose. :( I used an Ohler for years, and when the Lab Radar came
there was no discussion. Sure its a chuck of change, but if your out at
the range several days a week, doing load development, and testing wild
cats, The Lab is a no brainer. To me it's not a shooting accessary, it's a
tool of the trade.

[charlie b]

I had two Chrony's over the years and they did really well. I usually shoot early morning and the light angle would give them fits. Get a good tripod for it. I went to the Best Buy and got one of the heaviest ones I could find. It was $50 and worked well.

Yes, I also bit the bullet and got a Labradar for Christmas two years ago. Expensive. And not fool proof. Not totally reliable as it can mess up a reading or not get a reading every now and then (just like any other Chrono unless you go up in price and have controlled lighting).

[GaCop]

I've never tried the Caldwell but, have been using a Pro Chrono for 10 years now and have no complaints with it. Set up is quick on my Velbon tripod. No early morning problems with this Pro Chrono (yet).

[jpx2rk]

I have a Magnetospeed sporter, or the entry level one. It attaches on to the barrel near the muzzle, works fine, but can/does affect the POI when attached. Can/does affect groups as well. Easy to use, can attach and use while the firing line is "hot" if at a range. I don't use it except to get the fps when I have found a load that works for me/the gun. I'm not overly concerned with the ES/SD as some are. If the load shoots good, I'm happy. I don't believe the MS will work with a suppressor attached due to clearance issues if that matters to you.

[Txhillbilly]

I've got a Chrony F-1 and a MagnetoSpeed V3. I only use the Chrony F-1 if I need to do ballistics for handgun's anymore, its always been a PIA to set it up, and can be picky about the light conditions outside.
The MagnetoSpeed V3 is my go to chronograph for everything else, and I use it attached to my suppressor's all the time. I don't know if the Sporter version has all of the accessories that the V3 does.

People complain about the MagnetoSpeed changing your point of impact. It does change POI, but it doesn't change your group sizes from any of the shooting that I've done over the years.
I've used a friends Lab Radar unit before, it is also a great chronograph, but they can have their share of issues / quirks too.

Nothing is perfect when it comes to the different styles of chronographs, but the MagnetoSpeed V3 is my favorite one.

[Blue Avenger]

Used a few over the years. Some were useless at certain times of day.
Every time I got it out I was only interested in speed to work out drop charts. So the MagnetoSpeed was perfect. Very little set up time. No repeated trips to nudge tripod window. Smaller storage.

[want2ride]

I have not used that particular one, but i have used other optical chronographs and they work. they will give you the info you need, but they can be very inconsistent from day to day when the light conditions are different.
I hae a Magnetospeed sporter, a magnetospeed V3 and my brother has a lab radar, an optical, and a magnetospeed v3... they are all great when used for what they are intended to be used for. I would absolutely not worry about the one you are thinking about, but once i personally got a MS Sporter i used a chronograph a LOT more than i ever expected and i was glad i went with what i did... and still upgraded later.

[charlie b]

Really the difference is how you will use it. I shoot off a bench at paper targets and sometimes steel or other reactive tgts. I record where every bullet goes and the velocity. Just part of the hobby for me. For that kind of use the Labradar was the most convenient.

The optical type will work as well, especially with a remote control, if you can manage the light conditions a little, or, don't mind skipping the chrono for a day of shooting with bad light.

I did not go with the MS because of cost and attachment to the barrel. I did note one guy had made a rig with his bench rest setup where the MS was attached to the rest and not the barrel.

If all you need to do is check velocities on a few bullets, the cheapest one out there will work.

PS my first chronograph was one I built using discreet digital components and touch screens. That was in 1983.

[Revoliver]

Very pleased with my Magnetospeed Sporter as well. Best part is you don't have to wait for a a cease fire/the range to go cold. I haven't noticed a POI shift with it on, but I only shoot for the speed with it on, not for groups.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I have the competition electronics ProChrono LTD. It's my 2nd one and I have been very happy with both.
Why is it my 2nd one?
Well, I was chronoing some shotgun load and either I was a little too far away or something happened with one of the wads, as a piece of one of the wads broke off and smacked the front of the unit, busting the lcd display and circuit board. It was a total loss.
I bought a identical one and got their plexiglass shield for it. It will not stop a bullet, but it will stop a piece of a wad if that happens again.
Looks like the price has went up a little.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022289790?pid=919444
https://competitionelectronics.com/products/debris-shield

[NF1E]

I use both the Pro-chrono and the Labradar. Just replaced my Pro-Chrono last week after dropping it in the shop when the temp was around zero. Amazing how many pieces that plastic can shatter into. Never had any problems with the Labradar as long as I remember to charge the external battery pack and aim it properly. Both are wonderful units.



84318430

[yobuck]

If you feel you need another toy to play with, then a chronagraph would be a logical choice.
Will it make much difference in the way you shoot? probably not.
But then some usefull information can be had by owning one, even one of the cheaper ones.
Velocity information is a reason why many people including me even own one.
That information is essential for establishing an elevation chart, or click chart as many of us still prefer calling them.
But wait, what can you do to establish a good chart if you dont own a Chrony?
Well you will need to shoot, and its better if you can shoot at say 500 yards or even more if you can.
So lets say your gun is already zeroed at 100 yards.
You can then refer to a loading manual, or just guess what the velocity of your particular load might be, then refer to the site you choose for the data information, and add the number of clicks for the velocity number chosen and shoot.
First off, you will be much closer to hitting the spot your aiming at than you might think.
Regardless, just make the necessary corrections untill you do hit the aiming point.
Then just count the number of elevation clicks back to your 100 yard zero.
Compare that number to the velocity information the site gives for that number of clicks, and you have your real velocity number without a chrony.
Use that number for making your chart.
That will be factual information obtained by actually shooting.
It might sound harder than it actually is to do.

What happens if you dont own a rangefinder?
Its essentially no different than not having a chrony and knowing your velocity.
Just guess the distance to the target and shoot at it.
Makes no difference if you miss by 4 feet.
Hold steady on the target and dial to the hit.
Next shot should be a hit or very close and you didnt even know what the range was.
Learn how to use your scope and nothing else is really necessary.
Is it important to know the actual yardage to the target if you know how many clicks it takes to hit it?
Ditto with velocity.
It is whatever it is, and tomorrow its apt to be different due to different conditions.
So get a chronagraph or not, it really wont change your world much unless you think it does.

[Stumpkiller]

I have a ProChrono DLX Bluetooth that I like a bunch. I can "run" it from my iPhone or iPad and it didn't break the bank (like $120 on sale +/-).

I've used it with air rifles and wood arrows. But the biggest benefit was in matching my favorite factory load (Swift .260 Scirocco II) with reloads that have the same muzzle velocity. I'm a recent "dialer"convert and I had Leupold make an elevation ring so I can dial elevation using a rangefinder - with either the factory ammo or my reloads. Of the two I'd recommend the rangefindfer. I never thought I'd get the use I do when hunting. When I stop to sit I range a bunch of features so when a whtetail appears near one I know the distance. It's also a huge help with predators like a fox who doesn't present near the same target a whitetail does, and often are spotted further out (along field edges and clearcuts). 4" of error either way and you're over or under them. So, if you think it's a 400 yard shot but is only 360 or actually 420. Miss. And that's assuming at 400 yards you hit at exactly point of aim. So if you can shoot 4" groups at 400 yards - now you have to be within 15 or 20 yards either side of your estimate. I guess that's why guys like elk. BIG targets.

400 yards is the outer edge of sanity for me; and my load still carries 1,500 Ft-Lbs of energy. 300 yards for whitetail (so far in 42 years of hunting I have not needed to get even that far). Though I practice out that far on paper and gongs . . . just in case. As Yobuck says, you can get tho the same results putting together a dope card based on actual shooting. (But see the note above about group size at 400 yards - sometimes it's a debate where the center of my 400 yard groups actually is). And that's a great and more practical thing. But, how many rounds and barrel metal can you "save" with a $120 or $130 investment? Gone are the days you could reload for $0.60/round. My hunting load is $1.14 to reload assuming the brass lasts indefinitely. So my chrono represents less than 120 rounds down-range. I think it's worth it for the help in load development. I found a load that has less than 10 S.D. and is 100% density. That's almost perfect efficiency for a cartridge. Does the deer care? Not a snit. But I'm happy. ;-)

Do you need a chronograph? Nah. But it is a method to refine loads and can also shock you when you find what is really happening just beyond the muzzle. Some velocity figures are "overly optimistic" to say the least.

[Mr.Snerdly]

If you feel you need another toy to play with, then a chronagraph would be a logical choice.
Will it make much difference in the way you shoot? probably not.
But then some usefull information can be had by owning one, even one of the cheaper ones.
Velocity information is a reason why many people including me even own one.
That information is essential for establishing an elevation chart, or click chart as many of us still prefer calling them.
But wait, what can you do to establish a good chart if you dont own a Chrony?
Well you will need to shoot, and its better if you can shoot at say 500 yards or even more if you can.
So lets say your gun is already zeroed at 100 yards.
You can then refer to a loading manual, or just guess what the velocity of your particular load might be, then refer to the site you choose for the data information, and add the number of clicks for the velocity number chosen and shoot.
First off, you will be much closer to hitting the spot your aiming at than you might think.
Regardless, just make the necessary corrections untill you do hit the aiming point.
Then just count the number of elevation clicks back to your 100 yard zero.
Compare that number to the velocity information the site gives for that number of clicks, and you have your real velocity number without a chrony.
Use that number for making your chart.
That will be factual information obtained by actually shooting.
It might sound harder than it actually is to do.

What happens if you dont own a rangefinder?
Its essentially no different than not having a chrony and knowing your velocity.
Just guess the distance to the target and shoot at it.
Makes no difference if you miss by 4 feet.
Hold steady on the target and dial to the hit.
Next shot should be a hit or very close and you didnt even know what the range was.
Learn how to use your scope and nothing else is really necessary.
Is it important to know the actual yardage to the target if you know how many clicks it takes to hit it?
Ditto with velocity.
It is whatever it is, and tomorrow its apt to be different due to different conditions.
So get a chronagraph or not, it really wont change your world much unless you think it does.

I know what you are getting at. It is simply no substitute for actual shooting at different ranges. Probably as much as anything I am wanting to see how consistent my handloads are. They are not completely useless for a ballpark figure at different ranges either, better than nothing and for $74 I don't think it is a bad deal, assuming it is reasonably accurate. I have more money invested in guns and scopes than I originally figured I would have but it is still a relatively cheap hobby and that is all it is to me.

Gosh sakes, I just did some rough figuring and I must have around $4000 tied up in guns, scopes and reloading equipment. This is not counting consumables like powder, primers and bullets. I guess it all adds up faster than you think. Still, when I think of all the money my cousins have blown on tractor pulling it is cheap. Now THERE is an expensive hobby.

[yobuck]

My first chronagraph was purchased in the early 70s when i got seriously involved in long range shooting and hunting.
A buddy and i went together on it sharing the cost. It was an Ohler, at that time there were very few options for others.
It took 2 guys about a half hour to get the thing set up. We used 2 tripods with a 10’ length of electrical conduit supported on each end by the tripods.
On each end of the conduit was a sky screen connected by a wire to a box sitting on our portable bench. There was a dial on the box which you rotated after a shot was fired. the information gained by the rotating after each shot was then compared to a booklet which gave the velocity number.
It would take another half hour to get an average velocity number for a 5 shot group. That was if you had a guy operating the box and book while the other guy shot.
My buddy loved the thing, things just couldnt get complicated enough for him. When the Chrony brand came along my brother in law bought one. Not long later i did also and told my buddy that he could keep the Ohler. lol
Was the Chrony as accurate? maybe not, but there are lots of other factors to consider when we look at why some people are more successful at what they do than others are.
If you miss a shot at a target or an animal at a longer distance, odds are that you missed for reasons other than your ammo.
Not that it cant be a factor as well, but probably a much smaller one overall.
Eliminate those reasons first, then put lead in the air and keep it there till its over.

[Mr.Snerdly]

Tried 24.5 grains of CFE 223 today with 69 grain bullet. High of 2808 and a low of 2782. I only shot 2 groups and I was somewhat disapointed with the second, 13/16" but I do believe it could have been the wind which wasn't extreme but was rather gusty. First was 7/16" which isn't too bad. It will be so ungodly windy and cold the next couple of days and when it does warm up, even windier. I figured this would be the best day for quite some time. Not ideal conditions, but better than what is coming. I believe this is about what the velocity should be, allowing for the 22" barrel.