Headspace without stripping bolt?

[gguinn]

As DIY Newby removing and reinstalling the extractor and ejector is not one of my favorite things to do. As a result I have headspaced my new 22-250 match barrel with these items installed, contrary to instructions that came with the Forester gages and most demonstrations on YouTube and discussions on this forum. Using a stripped bolt to headspace seems counter intuitive because this is not the configuration in actual use. Before I torque down the barrel nut I would like to know the reason for requiring a stripped bolt and will I encounter any issues if I don’t. Thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

[bsekf]

The folks who are anal about headspace, measure to the closest RCH. They don't want any resistance on the case head. I have never removed anything from the bolt head. But I am careful about how everything feels. I measure my fired cases and my reloads and use that number when I headspace. As soon as I have few fresh fired cases I measure and compare them and then readjust if necessary. It takes a lot of force to resize cases with the bolt. I have found the headspace changes when you make that lase 1/16 turn to tighten. Who cares what the headspace measurement is if the cases are within .001 -.003 of the chamber size?

[RCE1]

I remove the ejector, which is easy, as is the firing pin. I leave the extractor in place. I use a go gauge and "magic" tape as I prefer a tighter chamber, but I never shoot factory ammunition, only handloads.

[Highbrass]

I believe the reason for stripping the bolt down is that the bolt face is the opposing end of the proper headspace. Removing all the extra bits and pieces insures your gauge is flush on the bolt face. When the trigger is pulled you want to contain the brass with minimal room on either end. Too much space and the brass grows. Too little and the brass wants to flow. I know some like the tape trick to add a couple of thousands and I suppose it's ok as long as you don't mind slightly longer brass?

[Dave Hoback]

It’s exactly as bsekf pointed out. For ultimate precision as with a match shooter, a bare bolt head is wanted. I’ve done it both ways. Had good results BOTH ways! I do prefer removing the ejector & firing pin myself. But that’s just me. I actually ENJOY taking firearms apart & putting them back together. So the ejector is no problem. I do leave the extractor, as it holds the gauge.

[mnbogboy2]

Some wish to get all the "drag" removed from the bolt so as to feel the headspace gauge resistance better or for setting case headspace with a free falling bolt. If you remove the wave washer in front of the rear baffle you can possibly lose the bolt head retaining pin. I suggest to put the firing pin back in to keep the retaining pin from moving .
Also a small piece of tape across the front baffle and bolt head will also hold that pin in.
The detent balls and spring in the rear baffle will also cause drag on the bolt operation. I suggest Sa "gutted"(no detente balls) rear baffle for this purpose to prevent the pita of removing and installing those detents (launchables). I have a spate just for this purpose.

[Dave Hoback]

Whoa, whoa now... who said anything about removing the wave washer or rear baffle BBs? LOL!:surprise: That sounds a biiiiit overkill to me my friend. I honestly can’t see any benefit to removing the washer while checking HS. Jus muh thoughts bud.

[efm77]

The only thing I remove is the firing pin. Never felt the need for removing the extractor and ejector. I put the gauge under the extractor before inserting it so it doesn’t have to snap over it. To me the ejector doesn’t have enough force to affect the feel. The camming action of the lugs has far more force to overcome the feel of the ejector anyway. Especially with a nutted barrel, I screw it in until it stops anyway and the ejector spring is not going to overcome that. Double check after torquing everything down and never had an issue.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

When setting head space, the bolt is cocked (?) so the firing pin is a non issue. And if folks thinking the ejector rod pushing the case sideways in the chamber is an issue? If you'd got THAT MUCH SLOP in the chamber that the case can go sideways, you've REALLY got problems.
Don't use gauges. (too much slop for my liking) 99% of my stuff in Wildcat related OR set on the snug side of SAAMI specs. Couldn't chamber a factory loaded round on a bet. Snug means my brass doesn't get moved when resizing any more than needed.