Safety Selector Switch

[Don G]

It's been a while since I tried to install the Basix trigger and I trashed the instruction BUT I just watched a video "rifle basix trigger for Savage Mark II FV" and I now see the safety screw, which is the screw I spent hours messing with in the attempt to get the safety to function. I don't know what the problem was with the Basix but once I re installed the stock trigger I was back in business.

We watched the last Friars game and a few of the players need to hustle a bit more or instead of the pro's they be the tallest elevator operators in NY city!! In my day, they mastered the fast break and were hard to keep up with.


Go Friars!

Don G - you can vaguely see the screw height (and its gap) in the image above. Follow the pencil mark I made on the trigger group and you can see the difference in light. That's if we're talking about the same screw here.

Now I'm curious to know if the Basix trigger install is compromised by that screw!

[mrnate8]

Cooley is a glorified cheerleader who doesn't know X and O's and situational coaching. His players all regress too.

In regards to the sear screw, I was surprised how easy it was to thread out with my own fingers.

Test fired operation with new polished bolt. Good as gravy, but back to drawing board to fiddle around with action screw torques (Boyd's Pro Varmint (tactical) stock). My groups opened up a wee bit to my disliking. Barrel has been good enough to shoot a dime out previously. Time for a torque accuracy test!

[Full Chisel]

C
... but back to drawing board to fiddle around with action screw torques (it's 25 inch lbs with Boyd's Pro Varmint (tactical) stock). My groups opened up a wee bit to my disliking. Barrel has been good enough to shoot a dime out previously.

I noticed you said earlier the barrel lug got bedded. Not sure if it was before, but I had zero luck bedding that lug and getting any decent groups. Did a complete torque workup to no avail. It actually shot better with lug, but not bedded. I finally removed lug completely and things really tightened up. FYI though, I did install some pillars that the action screw studs slide down into to form a tight bond to stock. Wolf ME shoots really well in mine.

[mrnate8]

I dremeled out the barrel lug surface area so the AcraGlas had a better bonding application. My goal was to restrict movement of the action in the stock. I did not attempt to glass bed any areas further behind the lug because I was afraid of getting the substance permanently in the action. Plus there wasn't much surface area to grab. Groups did improve, but not significantly much versus the synthetic factory stock.

I was intrigued with pillar bedding, but such a project looked above my head. I figured being such a low recoiling rifle that it wasn't going to be worth the time and trouble and I would have been angry with myself if I had screwed it up further!

I think it was my mistake. I'm toying around with a SPR AR build and couldn't remember the default torque settings for the Mark II with the wood stock. It was 25 inch lbs today, but I've been reading for the last 30 minutes and I should have started at 15 :(

Dilemma - Boyd's says 35... forum says as low as 10. Ugh.

[Full Chisel]

I would go with Boyds as a default since its their stock. My mark 2 G with pillars ended up at 30 front, 20 rear, tuned at 100 yards. Ditched the recoil lug after. They're not real pillars per se, they are pieces of aluminum tubing epoxied into stock, with epoxy built up around them. The action studs slide down into tubing for a tight fit. I also bedded the little bit of action that contacts stock. It shot sub half inch at 50 yd with Wolf ME afterward. Trigger is non-accu, tweaked down to 2 lb.

[mrnate8]

Hey Chisel,

I had 10 mph crosswind left to right, but settled on 25 lb torque setting for action screws. Crappy Remington Thunderbolt is what I had on hand, but I still shoot decent groups with it.

Going to inspect both the chamber and crown as well for defects in case because rifle has consistently shot around roughly around .375 or better.

https://i.ibb.co/Sx1g4TB/IMG-1252.jpg (https://ibb.co/1npNtVT)

[Full Chisel]

That looks pretty good for cheap ammo. 25 seems to be your ticket. I personally would count that flyer, and use the 1.5". You obviously can shoot, so I doubt that flyer is you. Rifle just doesn't like 30 pounds with thunderbolts. Boy, yours a way more sensitive to torque than my Mark 2 G is now. My G use to be more sensitive before I did all the bedding and pillars. I've got a brand new Mark 2 TR I need to get out and do the same thing. If I'm not mistaken, Savage uses a Boyds on the TR.

Were you using rest or bipod?

[mrnate8]

I viewed an interesting video about buying ammo by the lot, which makes sense. May try that with a few of the brands that this particular barrel favors (Norma TAC22 to start, haven't tried Lapua or Eley).

I think it's a Boyds too for the TR. As you can see, I used PlayDoh before fumbling around with AcraGlas to see the action's biggest impact in the stock. Here's mine and yes, shots were made with bipod and rear bag today.

https://i.ibb.co/CVN791h/IMG-0649.jpg (https://ibb.co/BTdZ6zq)
https://i.ibb.co/wyt9FwP/IMG-0651.jpg (https://ibb.co/7vhwdRZ)