Trigger model 110

[Woopig]

Have a 110 in a .308. Accurate enough, 1" at 100yds. 3 shots. Trigger is stock and HEAVY. I have an SSS on a .22/250, it's fine but.. a little light for my taste on a deer rifle. The reason I say a little light is adjusting for no creep it's around 2 pounds. I would like to be around 3#'s with no creep. Most of the after markets "say" adjustable to 3#'s. Anybody found one they have used and have achieved this? Any information is welcomed. Thank you.

[NF1E]

I prefer lighter triggers and the Jard's offerings fit my purposes.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Rifle Basix. Works for me. If you go with the Savage II, it'll go off if you breath on it. Strictly for bench work. Choose wisely.

[Smokey262]

Don't know what you have now, but the original three screw triggers can be adjusted to be decent hunting triggers. I think the Rifle Basix is similar in design

[Dave Hoback]

Any Savage trigger, 3-screw, Accutrigger, can be adjusted for 3lbs. But they will have creep, grit & over travel. To eliminate these pesky travelers requires either an aftermarket trigger or having the stock affair properly massaged. The SSS you have is a competition trigger. It was designed with a 2lb MAX capability.

[RCE1]

I got one of the SAV2 triggers. I found it a little tricky to get adjusted, but the RB tech support was very helpful. I don't know I'd get another.

I recently had to switch to left hand shooting as my right eye isn't as good as it used to be. I ordered a Elite Precision 6.5CM and the accutrigger (so far) only adjusts to 2lb. I'm considering a trigger job, although it's not high on the list of priorities. The 2lb pull is pretty adequate, but I've talked to someone who has good luck with tuning them up and I'm sure I have the right tools. I'd be happy with a solid, safe 1lb. I understand it's not a benchrest rifle.

[Woopig]

Have you every massaged one? Gun is a 94 or 96 mfg. 110, guessing a 3 screw. Is it worth effort vs results? Better off just going aftermarket?

[Dave Hoback]

Have you every massaged one? Gun is a 94 or 96 mfg. 110, guessing a 3 screw. Is it worth effort vs results? Better off just going aftermarket?


LOL.... you should look back through my content here.

[olddav]

If you replace the spring, polish the sear and trigger a three screw trigger is quite nice.

[Dave Hoback]

Polishing, yes...but careful out there. All to often people think the term “polishing” means pulling out the old Dremel & going to town. “There! Is all chiny now, meng!” That must mean it’s better, right?? ARRRG:cower::cower: I’ll keep saying this for anyone unsure: A Dremel is NOT a friend to performing a trigger job. Remember, any trigger is two or more sliding surfaces on opposing rotational planes. At the same time one must be careful not to remove unnecessary material. Stock trigger parts are typically Case Hardened. Case hardening penetrates typically 1-1.5mm MAX below the surface. But it differs quite a bit among manufacturers parts suppliers. Take too much material & you end up with soft metal that gouges itself(poor coefficient of friction), ever wearing the steel.

[olddav]

To more accurately describe the “polishing” in my earlier post please insert he work “lightly” before the word “polish”. Perhaps even “very lightly” would be better.

[gc_gc]

I had a Timney on a Mosin (I know, I know, shuddup!) and that turned it into a different gun. Unless I'm mistaken, they make one for the 110, right? They're adjustable up to 4.5 I think, and down to... I forget.

[Dave Hoback]

I believe almost ANY trigger requires being properly set up. Above & beyond adjustment I mean. Only the Jard is a complete system for Savage. Every other aftermarket trigger relies on the factory sear. Where as Jard includes its own proprietary sear & bolt release. So the trigger can be as fancy as all get out, but the sear remains with all its imperfections. I fail to see how supplying HALF the answer, solves for the WHOLE equation. Guess I picked this up from doing 1911 triggers. No matter which manufacturer, or how nice the parts one gets, a 1911 trigger is still always set up. Sear angle, hammer hook length, etc. This, in addition to regular fitting. And to tell you the truth, I’ve NEVER understood having a trigger in REAL danger of tripping & firing because you close the bolt a bit too hard!? A reason I am so fond of the Accutrigger & “Safe Action” triggers in general.

[GaCop]

Don't know what you have now, but the original three screw triggers can be adjusted to be decent hunting triggers. I think the Rifle Basix is similar in design +1.