LWH stock compatibility

[ramsdude47]

I apologize in advance because I'm pretty inexperienced with rifles, my terms might be incorrect and my wording not precise.

I bought a model 11 (trophy DOA XP) and then also found a really nice LWH walnut stock on EBay. I did some digging on compatibility before getting it and everything I read made it sound like it should work. It has been sitting in the garage for quite awhile, but I finally tried to swap stocks yesterday.

I'm running into a few problems, and am not certain it is going to work out. The action screw spacing is correct (4.4), but it seems like I need a spacer or something. Perhaps a different trigger guard, as the opening in the wood stock is deeper than the plastic. When I try to tighten the screws using the trigger guard I have, it operates correctly well before the rear action screw is tight. If I continue to tighten it, the bolt release gets stuck open. Additionally, I'm unable to cycle the bolt. It takes quite a bit of muscle to even open it. The mag well is also a fair amount larger, but I think that has a simple/cheap solution: https://www.eabco.net/Savage-Short-Action-Plastic-Magazine-Well--Plastic-Bottom-Metal_p_14780.html

I would probably opt towards just selling the stock (and probably the rifle too) before sinking a whole lot of money into making this work.

[Dave Hoback]

That may work, however it will require fitting. Almost any hardwood stock purchased will require some fitting; especially a generic stock purchased on EBay. You could use what you have a simply bed the parts, including the Action. ALWAYS recommended anyway, glass bedding is very easy. People are all too often intimidated by doing it. You can find hundreds of tutorial videos & blogs online. And many inexpensive Bedding Epoxies sold...both expensive & inexpensive(my preferred being Devcon Plastic Steel)

[J.Baker]

Not a generic stock Dave, but a factory take off from a Lightweight Hunter (LWH) model as indicated in his post. Unfortunately Savage has a couple different trigger guard designs they've used in recent years aside from the obvious top bolt release (TBR) and bottom bolt release (BBR) versions. Some are flat on the bottom where it mates to the stock, others will have a step in them.

A shim would do the trick as far as getting the trigger guard to sit flush with the wood, but something else is going on if it's locking up the sear when you tighten the rear screw down tight. As Dave said, probably going to have to do a little fitting and relieve a little material in the sear area of the inlet to allow it to function properly. Quick easy work with a dremel once you figure out where it's making contact.

[Dave Hoback]

Yup.... I glanced over the “LWH”. My apologies. But yeah... almost anything is possible with the right kind of fabrication work.