223 vs 556 Case For Reloading - Savage 110 Elite Precision

[pdshooter2]

No offense pdshooter2, but I've 21 years behind me as a Police Officer and have delt with those who tried to 'buck' the system/law and physics by exceeding the posted/suggested speed limit around curves. Either issued a citation, help load in an ambulance, or helped load a body bag, sometimes zipping it shut. Sometimes having to advise love ones that their family member isn't coming home. To many behind the wheel thinking they are NASCAR qualified, laws are for everyone else, and thinking it's their Constitutional Right to drive as they please. Stay Safe.


unsafe driving is unsafe driving...plain and simple. the point it happens in NOT the same for all drivers or car in use.
i have on track experience from the early 70's thru the late 90's
posted speed limits do not determine the safe driving limits, only legal limits
rifles have a FIXED safety pressure min built in....not driver nor load dependent.
done

[Savage 94C]

As I penned, I've delt with drivers in the past that thought they had it all together. Most of those had no regard for the safety/lives of others on the road, only out there trying to be macho, but only shows their disregard and incompetence. My scenario stands.

[bobsonofbob]

Getting back to 5.56 vrs .223 Rem, I have interchanged both factory types on numerous platforms and found no safety issues. My plinker reloads are mixed brass types, serious target rounds are brand and weight selected. A modern firearms manu. wouldn't put out a firearm that would blowup if you put a NATO round in it. Once the 5.56 brass goes through a .223 Rem die, its sized .223. Trim to correct length, I cut out the primer crimp, and load them up. Keep safe everyone.

[Dave Hoback]

A custom, tight Target chamber..yeah it would likely see some dangerous pressure using NATO 5.56. But modern, factory Actions? I’ve never seen any danger. As I’ve said before, the worst Iv’e ever seen was a case stuck in the chamber. Bit over overpressure, sure. But other than, no other pressure signs.

I have also said though, it’s up to each person to KNOW their equipment. To KNOW their firearms & safety margins. The last 1911 I built, I built specifically to fire 450Smc besides 45ACP. 185gr pills @ 1350fps. That is a STOUT cartridge which can severely damage a standard or especially a “Target” 1911. But I use a standard SW1911 barrel & have it sprung properly. I KNOW my firearm & what it can handle.

[pdshooter2]

what you are saying is BASICALLY TRUE in the USA.
99% of 5.56 ammo commercially sold in the usa is NOT OVER 223 SPECS.
heck there are makers that mark guns 223/556...tho it cannot be.
the safety specs and the small diff in the 2 chambers/rounds, means a blown primer, stuck case, dirty pants...not much else
just be careful

Getting back to 5.56 vrs .223 Rem, I have interchanged both factory types on numerous platforms and found no safety issues. My plinker reloads are mixed brass types, serious target rounds are brand and weight selected. A modern firearms manu. wouldn't put out a firearm that would blowup if you put a NATO round in it. Once the 5.56 brass goes through a .223 Rem die, its sized .223. Trim to correct length, I cut out the primer crimp, and load them up. Keep safe everyone.

[Blue Avenger]

Your not talking factory loads, you mentioned RELOADING. Your good with any brass until you push hard. Then things start to change between the brands of brass. One 5 round group will look great, perfect primers. The big thing every one forgets is that pressure sighs don't show up when your close to over, they show WHEN YOU ARE ALREADY OVER! The next one will have 3 blown primers, also blowing out the extractors while trying to shoot them. Only difference was the brass.
Shooting prairie dogs with safe loads you will never know the difference. Shooting 0.250@100 yd groups? you will learn there is a difference in brass

[Dave Hoback]

Well, I’d say the pressure signs come LONG before it’s “over”, as you say. Flattened primers, sticking in chamber. Hell, a blown primer is a great warning sign to STOP & see what’s going on. My take on it anyway.

[PhilC]

Sig77, the guy who asked the questions, hasn't logged in since Oct 31st. :whistle:

[Dave Hoback]

Yeeeup! I noticed that Phil. But guys seemed to be talking, so I chimed in. Good for new, perhaps lesser experienced members maybe?

[PhilC]

Hard to say Dave.

[RCoulter52]

Have you ever seen any reload data 5.56 vs .223? Me either. [emoji2][emoji106]
Match brass. Fire form. Shave to desired length. Reload on.
I shoot a really hot military load from a 10action .223

Cheers mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Try the Hornady Manual. It has data for 223 Remington AND 5.56 NATO. Sierra does also, in a round about way, they list it as 223 Service Rifle.

To say that there is no difference? Not so much. I have been 'Rolling My Own' since 1974 and have used 5.56 and 223 brass interchangeably, just watch your load data. Back off a little when using Mil Spec brass and you will be fine.

Let the flame war begin!

Randie
Fort Smith, AR

[bigedp51]

You will find that the biggest differences in the US made Lake City 5.56 cases vs the .223 case is hard ness. And if you want your brass to last a long time then do not load HOT.


223 -vs- 5.56: FACTS and MYTHS – Ultimate Reloader (https://ultimatereloader.com/2018/08/05/223-vs-5-56-facts-and-myths/)

https://i.imgur.com/LjAQ7L9.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/PExmCCk.jpg

[Dave Hoback]

Partially correct. LC brass is both thicker & harder in key areas. LC brass is very good brass. It’s not match, but can be made darn close with a little brass prep. It makes fantastic everyday, STUFF. H.T.F., & range loads. Most guys get 6-8 loads out of it.. not pushing it too hot. I’ve known some to get 10 no problem. Typically it’s the primer pockets that give up first.

[charlie b]

Try the Hornady Manual. It has data for 223 Remington AND 5.56 NATO. Sierra does also, in a round about way, they list it as 223 Service Rifle.

To say that there is no difference? Not so much. I have been 'Rolling My Own' since 1974 and have used 5.56 and 223 brass interchangeably, just watch your load data. Back off a little when using Mil Spec brass and you will be fine.

Let the flame war begin!

Randie
Fort Smith, AR

I don't pay attention to 5.56 or .223. Maybe if I had an older rifle I might take a bit of care.

I looked up the Sierra information and compared to Hodgdon. 69gn Sierra Match King loads, Varget powder.
AR-15 data 26.1gn max 2.260oal (Federal case)
Bolt data 26.4gn max 2.260oal (Federal case)
Hodgdon 26.0gn max 2.235oal (Win case) I wonder why Hodgdon loads them shorter? Their test barrel is also a 1:12 instead of the faster twists

[bigedp51]

Partially correct. LC brass is both thicker & harder key key areas. LC brass is very good brass. It’s not match, but can be made darn close with a little brass prep. It makes fantastic everyday, STUFF. H.T.F., & range loads. Most guys get 6-8 loads out of it.. not pushing it too hot. I’ve known some to get 10 no problem. Typically it’s the primer pockets that give up first.

The thickest area of the 5.56 case is the flash hole web that adds strength to the base of the case.

https://i.imgur.com/JcVlKzc.jpg
I have two AR15 type rifles and a Ruger bolt action with a 5.56 chamber. And at 71 years of age, I buy once fired Lake City 5.56 cases and see no difference with older eyes than with more expensive brands of brass.
https://i.imgur.com/4kXrGuI.png

[charlie b]

You guys must not push them at all. I only get 4 reloads out of them before the primer pockets enlarge. 77gn SMK's at 2800fps.

Lapua has been the only brass to give me any decent life. More than 15 reloads.

If it was the 'old days' and I got the stuff for free I wouldn't worry about it. :)

[Dave Hoback]

You guys must not push them at all. I only get 4 reloads out of them before the primer pockets enlarge. 77gn SMK's at 2800fps.

Lapua has been the only brass to give me any decent life. More than 15 reloads.

If it was the 'old days' and I got the stuff for free I wouldn't worry about it. :)

Charlie, do you cut or Swage the crimps of the pockets? I’ve found that to make a difference. And yes, you are right. Push the loads & the cases start cracking or as most often is the case, the primer pockets, like you said.

[charlie b]

I have yet to get a cracked .223 case. And I do not anneal them. All of my .223 case failures have been from the primer pocket enlarging.

I cut the crimps. I won't change brands at this point. My barrel has almost 4000 rounds through it now and I have a new box of 100 Lapua cases sitting on the shelf. Since the first 100 have given me almost 2000 rounds I think I might wear out the barrel before I need more brass :)

[Dave Hoback]

Yeah, I think that is a big part. Most people cut the crimps. And from some of what I’ve seen, those who Swage, get much better primer pocket longevity.

[charlie b]

It would have to triple the life to make a difference to me.