.308 to 6mmBR advice

[Fuj']

[QUOTE=Dave Hoback;493111]I don’t believe there is any empirical data or case study to support the superiority of one over the rest. /QUOTE]

Ahh but there is. Each discipline puts down it's own data by simply reading national match results.
In most national results, you can find equipment lists. Bartllen barrels are most prominent with 5R.
Brux will mainly be 4 groove. Krieger has a 4 groove in the mix. In short game BR, a good old 6 groove
can still be highly competitive, but rarely used in the long games.

[wbm]

I'd skip the BR and go with a Dasher

+1

[Dave Hoback]

[QUOTE=Dave Hoback;493111]I don’t believe there is any empirical data or case study to support the superiority of one over the rest. /QUOTE]

Ahh but there is. Each discipline puts down it's own data by simply reading national match results.
In most national results, you can find equipment lists. Bartllen barrels are most prominent with 5R.
Brux will mainly be 4 groove. Krieger has a 4 groove in the mix. In short game BR, a good old 6 groove
can still be highly competitive, but rarely used in the long games.

Keyword being “Prominent” Fuj. I.e, “popularly known”. Yes, I agree 5R is heavily favored now. As is 6mmBR, Dasher, etc., in target shooting. My point is no caliber, rifling, Action, etc., has INCREASED overall accuracy from other times before on their own merit. Sure, records are broken all the time. But there is No compounded data which would otherwise lead one to believe this is the result of the rifling alone, but rather the system as a whole. And most notably, the shooter’s prowess on THAT particular round. I know.... because I’ve researched for years. The ONLY evidence we have is anecdotal.

That’s all I meant. Don’t get me wrong....I’m also not saying conventional 8groove or 6groove is better either. Nor am I stating we should stick with 30-06, 308 & 30-30 because of their age somehow making them better. No sir. I am actually a fan of NEW stuff. I’m simply careful not to let it determine an thinking outcome. Just as I don’t allow the NAME of said products.

[Dave Hoback]

I DO concur though, on the 4 groove Brux. While I am happy with my Shilen in 260Rem...my next barrel will begin with a “B”...either Brux or Bartlein and in 260AI.

[charlie b]

[QUOTE=Dave Hoback;493111]I don’t believe there is any empirical data or case study to support the superiority of one over the rest. /QUOTE]

Ahh but there is. Each discipline puts down it's own data by simply reading national match results.
In most national results, you can find equipment lists. Bartllen barrels are most prominent with 5R.
Brux will mainly be 4 groove. Krieger has a 4 groove in the mix. In short game BR, a good old 6 groove
can still be highly competitive, but rarely used in the long games.


The idea is, there is not enough data to say that one rifling profile is better than another. Maybe if you got someone to shoot a test rifle indoors with three different rifling profiles you could make a case for it. Competition results will show a trend, sometimes. But, eg, does a Bartlein 5R barrel outshoot a Brux 4 groove because 1) the rifling profile is better, 2) the barrel is more precisely made, 3) the shooter is better or 4) that shooter had better wind conditions than the other top shooters, etc. etc

I am another who would stay with 6BR for informal use. Ready made brass. Proven easy to load for. And won't burn out a barrel in a couple seasons of shooting. I want the lower recoil of the 100-110 gn bullets, lower case capacity to give higher load densities, and longer barrel life. The Dasher gets an extra 200fps, not something that is important to me. If the velocity was important I'd go with a larger case cartridge (6x47, CM, .243) and plan on changing the barrel more often. I already have a .308 if I feel the need to shoot heavier bullets. And I am limited to 1000yd so anything more is just excess.

My only decision is a Krieger or Bartlein :)

[Iowa Fox]

Well if it were me with a 6mm, I'd skip the BR and go with a Dasher and 4 groove Brux barrel.
Or skip the 6mm, and do a straight 284 Winchester and 180 class bullets.

Yep!

[GrenGuy]

powderburnz, at this point in Your shooting experience, My recommendation is go with a Drop In Straight 6mmBR. This, IMO, will give You the experience necessary to move forward later, in areas like custom spun barrels, and formal competition.

Since You “only compete with Yourself”, what would You consider victory? You will be amazed what You can do with a straight 6mmBR, out to 1,000yds.

Good Luck With Your Decision

[Robinhood]

Well if it were me with a 6mm, I'd skip the BR and go with a Dasher and 4 groove Brux barrel.
Or skip the 6mm, and do a straight 284 Winchester and 180 class bullets.

Yep....or even a bigger six like the 6 or 243 Winchester. I like having regular OTC brass. But the 25 creedmoor sure looks good with the bergers that are out now.

[powderburnz]

powderburnz, at this point in Your shooting experience, My recommendation is go with a Drop In Straight 6mmBR. This, IMO, will give You the experience necessary to move forward later, in areas like custom spun barrels, and formal competition.

Since You “only compete with Yourself”, what would You consider victory? You will be amazed what You can do with a straight 6mmBR, out to 1,000yds.

Good Luck With Your Decision


Brux
Stainless MTU contour
27 “ 8 twist
Muzzle tapped 5/8-24


Planning on using Erik Cortinas EC tuner brake


Lapua brass
Berger 108’s

[powderburnz]

So I have a box of 6BR Lapua brass and a no-go. I do not have a go gauge. Using a comparator measuring about 50 pieces all were .005 shorter than the no-go. Realizing there’s a difference lot to lot and I’m sure this virgin brass is probably a bit shorter than my die and the go gauge that I don’t have, can I set my headspace with the virgin brass as my go? Or should I put a piece of tape on the brass?

[powderburnz]

Bump⬆️

[Dave Hoback]

Yes, you can use the brass as your “Go” gauge. And you already have a “No Go”, correct? Just be careful, as you can easily compress the brass.

My preferred method has been a “Go” gauge & then using shims I make from feeler gauges. .002”, .003”. Works really well.

[powderburnz]

Yes, you can use the brass as your “Go” gauge. And you already have a “No Go”, correct? Just be careful, as you can easily compress the brass.

My preferred method has been a “Go” gauge & then using shims I make from feeler gauges. .002”, .003”. Works really well.


Yes I do have a no-go. Do you think I should add some tape to the brass to be in the safe side? I’m sure virgin brass is a tad shorter than a go gauge??

[Dave Hoback]

I wouldn’t worry about it. Because you have the NoGo. As long as the brass loads easily, & the NoGo doesn’t fully engage, it will be fine.

Also, make sure you aren’t compressing the brass. Brass can compress under force. You want it to load with ease. So the bolt handle simply falls.

[powderburnz]

So now I’m wondering while installing the barrel, loctite or no loctite?

[Dave Hoback]

Nah... it's not needed. I like the barrel VERY tight! Usually 50ft lbs. this last time, I torqued the nut to 75ft lbs.! I'm not saying to copy me. I'm just saying what I do. But even at the typical torque...(I can't even remember it off hand...like 40ft lbs or something?) In any case, even at the lower torque vale, the barrel isn't going anywhere. Trust me! It's much like a bolt tightened with a spring under tension. The bolt can't loosen because the force of the spring. Same idea with the Savage barrel & nut. They are counter loading one another. It's a shame so many are against it. Really is a brilliant idea. Interesting so that customs are doing it now because there is no accuracy loss to anyone except maybe the top level shooters.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Off the shelf Savage rifles have been known to have the barrel nuts super tight from the factory. Think installed by a GO RILLA!!
Once loosened and re installed, a good "rap" with a steel hammer on the nut wrench will get it tight, enough that I have never had one come loose. Never bothered to use a torque wrench. I DO mark the nut to the action so I can see if it ever moves. Never happens.

And something else to consider. Factory loaded 6 BR ammo is pretty hard to come by and anybody that gets it is probably only after the brass?
Think about that when you set the head space. Set it on the snug side so you don't have to move the brass, when resizing, any more than needed.
And the only thing to add to the barrel/nut threads is a good grease. Just enough that both the nut and barrel spin free. Loctite is bad Ju ju.
Loctite has been known to run/ease into places that you don't expect THEN, you're in a world of hurt. Plan ahead.;)

[powderburnz]

So the barrel install went awesome guys, thanks for the help. Now on to my next series of beginner questions. In my 308 days I acquired all my brass 3 ways. Factory loads, the range and bought used. All federal. I learned trimming, turn and weighing. So now I have new 6br Lapua. Am I wrong to say my first load/firing is almost a waste? Can’t size it if course, can’t really discern any real info from the brass prior to the first firing? Neck turn maybe?, although Lapua has about .001 thickness variance, not bad but on the 308 I had it perfect so .001 seems bad to me. Chime in please.

[Dave Hoback]

Glad everything went well for you. I wouldn’t trim it... don’t think you’ll really see much difference. But hey, if you feel the need go for it.

I understand where you‘re coming from. Feels kinda “BLAH” having something so good handed to you, as a reloader. At least I have some feelings like that. Although for me it’s accuracy based solely. I really just enjoy reloading. I enjoy making the brass & prepping it. But I actually use Lake City primarily. For my 223 reloads, & especially for my 260 REM.

[bsekf]

6BR is great to fool with. Small primer so you can run the pressure up and it's a short 243. Because I change barrels a lot, I use index marks and not much tension. You will have trouble with the 6BR working through a magazine. Easy to tune, easy on components, accurate and just plain fun to shoot. Got three, Encore rifle, Encore pistol and a Savage/McGowan barrel.