Savage 110 Timberline short action and scope failure to zero.

[blfuller]

So a friend of mine gets the new 110 Timberline in .308 and he picks a Burris Eliminator III scope for it. Burris two piece Extreme Tactical bases were purchased and we find out that this action has #8-40 screws and the Burris bases will not work because the screws are too small and they don't offer them with the #8-40 screws. So we get a Warne Maxima two piece base and mount up the scope. The Eliminator III scopes don't use rings as they have an integral machined base on the bottom of the scope that sits on the action bases and a special cross bolt goes into the cross slot and mates the scope to the base.

We found out that the scope cannot be zeroed, and its point of impact is 6" to the right of point of aim at 100 yards and the windage turret is all out of adjustment. The action on this 110 Timberline is supposed to be "blueprinted" and given that, I'm pretty sure that the base mounting holes are in the correct location on the action. I checked the bases installed on the action with a digital angle gauge and they are within a 1/2 degree of each other of being parallel.

I personally think it is the scope but I am at a loss. According to Burris it has 40" of windage adjustment, 20" to the left and right from mechanical zero. The mounts were installed in multiple combinations and still the same results. Any suggestions on what to do to determine what component is the problem? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

[JW]

If you have another scope, bases and rings to try, that would be the easiest thing to do first.
I am not familiar with the burris scope/mounts you have,- someone will chime in to help.
Jack

[want2ride]

If you have another scope, bases and rings to try, that would be the easiest thing to do first.
I am not familiar with the burris scope/mounts you have,- someone will chime in to help.
Jack
That would be my first option too. I would look for a one piece and ditch the two piece.

[Robinhood]

That would be my first option too. I would look for a one piece and ditch the two piece.

I was aware that the eliminator did not use rings but the xtreme III? Do you have a picture?
This is the XTR III
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9rYAAOSwcdtd4VzO/s-l300.jpg

This is the Eliminator:
http://nightgalaxy.sellware.net/images/burris-200116.jpg

Which one are we talking about?

Ultimately there is some misalignment between the scope and the barrels POI. Without closeup pictures and the ability to diagnose in person it is a crapshoot. Are you seeing full range of scope adjustment on paper?

[blfuller]

Sorry guys, it is the Eliminator III. And as suggested I mounted a different scope on the Warne bases and that scope was able to be zeroed without issue. I suspect there may be an internal issue or something with the integral mounting rail. I have submitted a warranty claim to Burris from there support portal.

[Robinhood]

Don't rule out your rifle yet. How far off was the POI from the optical center of the traditional scope? if it was close to being maxed out on windage or elevation there may be an issue with the barreled action. We have seen it before.

[blfuller]

I installed the traditional scope and it was pretty much right on windage wise from mechanical zero. Maybe had to move it 2" to the right. I guess we shall se what Burris does and if the replacement does the same thing. Hoping that Savage did their thing when they assembled it.

[J.Baker]

Do you have a barrel nut wrench or a good gunsmith locally who would have one? We've seen this same issue several times on here over the years, and often times it can be remedied by simply breaking the nut loose and retightening. When Savage installs the barrels on the actions, they put the assembly into a fixture and then put an indicator on the barrel about 8" or so down from the barrel nut. If the barrel shows some runout on the indicator they use a press to "push" it in the direction needed. The inherent play in the threads mating the receiver and barrel shank allow for a slight amount of movement in this regard. This makes it aesthetically straight, but as we all know bores in barrels aren't always 100% true and centered to the outside diameter.

Photo of the "straightening" process described above.

8011

[blfuller]

Unfortunately I don't have a barrel nut wrench. The scope is on it's way back to Burris and if this does not fix the issue, then contacting Savage will be the next step.

[blfuller]

Just an update on this. Burris examined the scope and found that there was nothing wrong with it and returned. Rifle is en route back to Savage.

One thing I noticed was that the barrel did not lay centered in the stock barrel channel and angled towards the right. So I guess we shall see what Savage finds out.

[blfuller]

A little update. After Savage having the rifle for almost two months got the rifle back and same thing. The work performed was inspection, check headspace, adjust barrel for sight in, remove burrs, boresight only, function fired 3 rounds at 100 yards and held a .6" group with Federal 165gr Trophy Copper ammo.

Going to try a different scope to see if it will zero. I would attempt to try a one piece base as well.

[Robinhood]

A friend of mine didn't want to do any work to his Savage with this problem. He went this route. US optics windage adjustable rings. They are hard to find now.
It allowed him to zero near horizontal optical center and by using the rear ring to do the coarse adjustment he was able to stay on target out to long range without error. And they are built. Not cheap but worthy.

https://cdn-bccak.nitrocdn.com/nMjTPJgJMJVAtIjZIgXKhsMyCAMzOlXW/assets/static/optimized/rev-491fc4c/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/products-us_optics_scope_rings_low.png

[yobuck]

A friend of mine didn't want to do any work to his Savage with this problem. He went this route. US optics windage adjustable rings. They are hard to find now.
It allowed him to zero near horizontal optical center and by using the rear ring to do the coarse adjustment he was able to stay on target out to long range without error. And they are built. Not cheap but worthy.

https://cdn-bccak.nitrocdn.com/nMjTPJgJMJVAtIjZIgXKhsMyCAMzOlXW/assets/static/optimized/rev-491fc4c/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/products-us_optics_scope_rings_low.png
They are very good rings, we have a set we used to get my sons Vortex zeroed in before we trashed it for a different scope.
And they are indeed very pricey.
id be trying a Leupold mount and rings with the rear mount having the windage adjustment first.

[blfuller]

A friend of mine didn't want to do any work to his Savage with this problem. He went this route. US optics windage adjustable rings. They are hard to find now.
It allowed him to zero near horizontal optical center and by using the rear ring to do the coarse adjustment he was able to stay on target out to long range without error. And they are built. Not cheap but worthy.



Unfortunately conventional rings are not an option with the Burris Eliminator III scope. Scope is going back to Burris for exchange and if that does not work, a scope with 30mm tube that takes conventional rings will be used.

[Robinhood]

Unfortunately conventional rings are not an option with the Burris Eliminator III scope. Scope is going back to Burris for exchange and if that does not work, a scope with 30mm tube that takes conventional rings will be used.

Im sorry bud, I was thinking it was the other way around. It sucks but you may need to do what Jim Baker suggested.

I have the tools and I would just pull the action, put the barrel in my V-blocks and indicate TIR in the middle of the barrel with the action hanging off, then indicate the rear end of the action where you have enough of the rounded part to get some readings. If it had more than .010" TIR anywhere I would mark the highs with a sharpie and it would come apart for a closer look. My bet is that what Baker described is correct. I have also seen the edge of the action and or the edge of the barrel nut damaged pushing the barrel the opposite direction.