Book for beginners

[Chowda]

This question is for seasoned handloaders. Which reloading manual/book would you recommend for someone who is interested in learning the craft but has zero experience?

I'm not interested in competion target shooting. I would like to learn to make my own hunting and range ammo.

[Robinhood]

Food for thought I don't have a recommendation. I started with Sierra. The best thing about a bullet manufactures book is the stuff in front. You will find Jargon and definitions and a lot of the in's and out's. If you don't shoot the book makers bullets then the data is slightly off. The die manufacturers have good information in the box with their products. Recipes are easily found on the internet.


There are a lot of good videos on Youtube, there are also a lot of mental midgets. It won't take long to figure out which is which.

Good Luck

[bigedp51]

My vote would be the Lyman reloading manual, it gives very good coverage and easy to understand.

[charlie b]

If you are after a "how to" of reloading then I'd vote for the Lyman Manual as well. And their Cast Bullet Handbook if so inclined.

My first reloading manual (70's) was the Sierra simply because I bought most bullets out of their lineup.

The powder mfgs share their reloading data online for free. Online you can find some of the data from the bullet mfgs, but, not all of it. Most of the powder I use is distributed by Hodgdon so I just go to their website and print out the appropriate pages.

[Orezona]

I started with the Lyman 49th. I've heard the Lyman 50th was underwelming. I've also heard the beginner information is very good in the LEE manual once you get past him explaining how awesome he is.

[Chowda]

I ordered the Lyman 50th after reading your responses and reviews I found online. Thanks.

[Mr.Snerdly]

I have an old Speer manual, an old Lee manual and a fairly new Nosler manual. They all have good info in them. Most of the stuff is the same but you can learn a little different things from all three.

[PhilC]

I started with the Speer #10 included with my Rockchucker kit and now have more manuals than I can use, Sierra, Hornaday, later Speer, Lyman, Barnes, and every Nosler manual printed. Most of the time, I'll use bullet or power manufacturer data taken right off their websites.

[Chowda]

I ordered the Lyman hoping it will go through the entire reloading process step by step as well as load data.

[charlie b]

It will do that and more.

[tech610]

This was my first book: https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Dean-Grennell/dp/0873491262

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Seems like this one ( https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloadin.../dp/0873491262 (https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Dean-Grennell/dp/0873491262) ) was the one I remember the most.
One thing that I keep remembering was NOT seeing any mention about case OAL. Thinking back, it was probably there but me, knowing everything at that time (:rolleyes:) probably skipped over that section.
Cases being too long for the chamber CAN be a BIG issue when you load 100+ rounds and have to beat the bolt open on an M1A and end up pulling ALL the bullets so you can trim the cases to specs.
Those things you DO remember very well.

One thing I did learn over time was the fact that most chambers are cut about .020 longer than Max Trim Length so if you watch what you're doing, you may not have to trim brass for a looong time.
Measure your chambers, write those specs down and refer to them before you think about trimming brass. It all comes with time.
Lots of folks thing rolling your own ammo will save you $$$ over store bought?
It's a fact that if you load your own ammo, you'll be shooting more. :cool: (so much for saving)
One thing that counts is that your ammo will be tailored for YOUR rifle and will end up being more accurate. Enjoy the ride.;)

[Fuj']

From early on, some of the easiest to digest was anything in the Lyman
manuals.

[ragsflh]

read books,ask questions.reloading is great but supplys are in short supply at moment

[Nor Cal Mikie]

And I might add, NEVER be afraid to ask questions. We all had to start somewhere.
The only really stupid question is: "Did I really do that last night"? :rolleyes:

[Chowda]

Slightly off topic but I'm the OP of this thread and have a question for y'all. I recently bought some new in box Browning 97 grain BXR 243 ammo from Bass Pro. All but 3 of the 20 rounds cycled perfectly through my rifle. I couldn't close the bolt on those 3 rounds.

I took the Browning ammo along with some Federal, Nosler and Winchester ammo to the range.

After the range session I gave 100 pieces of fresh fired brass and 100 Hornady Interlock bullets to a friend to reload for me. He gave me 103 rounds back because he pulled those 3 Browning bullets and loaded them into some Winchester brass he had laying around.

I cycled the 100 rounds of Hornady loaded ammo and all went smoothly (including what was loaded into the 3 Browning cases he pulled the bullets from). Those same 3 Browning bullets loaded into Winchester brass still will not allow me to close the bolt on them. They slide into and eject from the chamber just fine but the bolt will not close.

Any idea what might be wrong with those 3 bullets?

[yobuck]

No doubt something to do with the bullet causing a different length situation than the others.
I would simply remove the die from your press, insert the round into the shell holder, then run the round up so the bullet itself is at the top of the press where the die screws in.
Then use the (Ultimate bullet puller), a set of large dikes to grab onto the bullet just above the case.
Then use the press to remove the bullet from the case and just throw it away.
Dump the powder on your lawn and leave the primer if you wish.
I have knocked out hundreds of live primers over the years without having a single issue.
But it is a controversial thing, and best to at least wear glasses if you do.
Learn to keep some of your old cases, even those with split necks can be worth keeping a few of.
Make case legnth gauges and bullet seating depth gauges with them, mark what they are and best keep them right in the same box with the dies.
Once the die is adjusted properly in the press itself as the die directions will explain, the lock ring on the die will not change.
Only the seating depth stem will be adjusted based upon the particular bullet used.
If using different weight bullets in the same gun, have a gauge set up for each of them.
Then simply put the desired one into the shell holder and adjust the die stem till it touches the bullet. Thats it, the die is readjusted for that particular bullet. Of coarse you should confirm the length with calipers.

[Chowda]

Used a digital caliper and all 3 of the bad rounds are right at 2.64" oal. I checked a few of the other handloads and some factory Nosler and Federal rounds and some were slightly shorter or longer (within a few hundredths) than the 3 bad ones. Everything except those 3 cycles perfectly.

[Orezona]

What Yobuck said, except dump the powder around your favorite flowers in your flower bed.

[yobuck]

Used a digital caliper and all 3 of the bad rounds are right at 2.64" oal. I checked a few of the other handloads and some factory Nosler and Federal rounds and some were slightly shorter or longer (within a few hundredths) than the 3 bad ones. Everything except those 3 cycles perfectly.
Length to the ogive of the bullet is the preferred method.
But point is its really not worth the effort to find the cause of just those three.
It is a very good practice to cycle all your ammo thru the gun before taking them hunting however.
And the reason should be obvious.