Soldered Sight On Stainless Steel Barrel

[MacDent]

I put open sights on an Axis II .243. I did a drill/tap for the rear sight, and that one's fine. However, I soldered a Mauser 98 hooded sight on the front. And after firing a few rounds, the solder loosened and the sight slid off center. I've soldered front sights before, and they didn't come loose. But this is the first stainless steel barrel I've tried.

So the question is: Is there a problem doing this with stainless steel?

Thanks for any replies.

[GaCop]

On that stainless barrel I think drill/tap is the best way to go. Maybe a shorty ramp and sight of your choice.

[8mm RUM]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50RRpltfAR4

https://www.wikihow.com/Solder-Stainless-Steel

​It looks like you need some specials prep and the right components .

[MacDent]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50RRpltfAR4

https://www.wikihow.com/Solder-Stainless-Steel

​It looks like you need some specials prep and the right components .

Thank you for the links. They are very helpful.

[MacDent]

On that stainless barrel I think drill/tap is the best way to go. Maybe a shorty ramp and sight of your choice.
Thanks for your help. You're right, that would work. But I like this Mauser front sight. And I'd like to solve the problem of soldering a band sight on stainless. Judging from the links 8mm posted, stainless is a different animal. It looks interesting. Thanks again.

[GaCop]

I love this forum, I learn something all the time. Excellent article on soldering stainless.

[gbflyer]

I’ve read there are some Loctite products that work well on a banded sight.


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[GaCop]

I’ve read there are some Loctite products that work well on a banded sight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk :thumb::thumb: I forgot about that. I used some a few years ago to resecure a ventilated rib to a shotgun and it's still holding today.

[MacDent]

:thumb::thumb: I forgot about that. I used some a few years ago to resecure a ventilated rib to a shotgun and it's still holding today.
Do you remember what specific Loctite that was?

[gbflyer]

Clean with alcohol, fit as necessary, scuff both surfaces with 180 grit, clean with alcohol again, use Loctite Red 263 if you need some time or 380 if you’re brave.

[MacDent]

Clean with alcohol, fit as necessary, scuff both surfaces with 180 grit, clean with alcohol again, use Loctite Red 263 if you need some time or 380 if you’re brave.

Good to know. Thank you.

[Robinhood]

I love this forum, I learn something all the time. Excellent article on soldering stainless.

Yes sir. I agree. Great links!!!

[MacDent]

Clean with alcohol, fit as necessary, scuff both surfaces with 180 grit, clean with alcohol again, use Loctite Red 263 if you need some time or 380 if you’re brave.


I noticed that some Loctite 263 is labeled "RED threadlocker" and some just say "Loctite 263 Threadlocker". Is there a difference between them?

[prdatr]

I noticed that some Loctite 263 is labeled "RED threadlocker" and some just say "Loctite 263 Threadlocker". Is there a difference between them?

It's just the labeling as far as I know. I did come across this which may be of interest to you.

https://www.exdron.co.il/images/Products/files/Loctite-263-10ml-Red-replace-270--datasheet.pdf

[MacDent]

It's just the labeling as far as I know. I did come across this which may be of interest to you.

https://www.exdron.co.il/images/Products/files/Loctite-263-10ml-Red-replace-270--datasheet.pdf

It is definitely of interest. Thank you.

[Robinhood]

Did you use silver or silver with cadmium. The guys who re-solder Remington bolt handles on use a higher temp stuff.

[MacDent]

Did you use silver or silver with cadmium. The guys who re-solder Remington bolt handles on use a higher temp stuff.

No, that was my problem. I didn't know stainless required special handling. The links that 8mm posted explain about stainless very well.

[Bama110Tac]

Very interesting stuff.