Bolt Lift Kit

[cheech]

Hey everyone,

I'm a new Savage rifle owner as I've picked up a model 111 Hog Hunter in .308. I've seen a couple videos on YouTube about a "Bolt Lift Kit" for the Savage rifles. The bolt throw on my rifle isn't bad but would one of these kits make a noticeable difference once installed? The fellow in the video measured his throw and the lift was 5 lbs but after the kit was installed it dropped to 4.3 lbs. That doesn't seem like much of a difference to me to warrant the cost even if it is only about 30 bucks. Does anyone have one of these on their rifle? Is it a gimmick or an actual improvement?

[Txhillbilly]

I personally have never seen much difference after installing a bolt lift kit in one my rifles. I think I have 2-3 more of them setting in the file cabinet out in the shop colleting dust, just not worth the time / effort to install them.

[Robinhood]

It really depends on the style of firing pin spring your bolt has. What most kits do not account for is the stack height of the bearing assembly. You need to remove material from the BAS in the amount that the lift kit ads or add a spacer between the bolt handle and the BAS the length of the lift kit.

There is another method to reduce lift by modifying the spring(not shortening it)(on the models that have the long adjustable spring) but it takes some skill to do it correctly. it also requires a method of testing the mods.

[celltech]

The one I got took off ~1/2 lb. Can't say I notice it that much, especially since I already have the big tactical bolt handle on there. That alone gives you quite a bit of leverage.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I have installed extended tactical bolt handles on all my rigs. A little extra leverage always helps. IMHO, better than any lift kit made for any Savage.
You want smooth, lite bolt lift? Think Remington XP 100.:cool:

[PhilC]

I personally have never seen much difference after installing a bolt lift kit in one my rifles. I think I have 2-3 more of them setting in the file cabinet out in the shop colleting dust, just not worth the time / effort to install them.
My experience matches yours. I bought two, installed one on my 12FV and it didn't make any difference so removed it and both are now sitting in drawer in my bench.

[justinp61]

I bought one that has a thrust bearing and installed it in my mdl 11. I can't tell any difference, the next time the bolt is apart for cleaning I'll leave it out when it's reassembled.

[sharpshooter]

On the average it will reduce the bolt lift effort by 2 in/lbs.

[Vartarg]

I’m happy with mine....along with adding a Glades extended handle...the combination definitely helped. It’s not a life changing event....just an improvement.

George

[cheech]

Thank you for the input guys, I appreciate it. I think I'll shy away from the kit and if I need any more leverage than I already have, I'll look into a different handle. Thanks again.

[Texas10]

There are a few things you can do to lighten bolt lift. Most of these steps pertain to the older bolt designs, not the newer ones with the cocking indicator, but some may cross over.

First of all, take a really close look at the aft baffle as you lift the bolt fully open. Pay attention to the ramp on the rear baffle and the adjacent ramp on the bolt handle. This is the primary extraction ramp and if it engages too soon it is trying to move the bolt backward before the bolt locking lugs come off the lug abutments in the forward part of the action. This happens sometimes in a factory original rifle, but more frequently if the bolt handle has been changed out for an aftermarket one with a longer bolt handle. Some careful grinding of the ramp on the aft baffle or bolt handle will fix the timing of this.

Install a 38 cal lift kit: Cut a .38 special case down to the web and place a ball bearing in the primer cup. Find one that just fits and barely extends above the cartridge head. Then remove the bolt assembly screw (BAS) and drop the lift kit into the back end of the cocking sleeve. Install the BAS and check lift. If it hangs up firmly at the top of the lift, install a washer between the BAS and bolt body or adjust the cocking nut a turn or two. There is a lift kit sold that has an adjustable centerpoint screw that makes this adjustment easier, although it comes with a new BAS that may not match your action color.

Reduce the firing spring pressure by unscrewing the cocking nut a couple of turns, but watch for primer cratering/blanking as an indicator that firing pin strength is too low.

Polish the cocking ramp in the bolt body to a mirror finish, and lubricate with a thin coat of STP or other "super lubricant" such as HOBO OIl.

Polish the cocking nut and the cocking sleeve internally with 1000 wet/dry sandpaper and also the firing pin in the area of milled flat on the threaded portion. This is where the keyed washer can hang up on the last thread during cocking or firing. When reassembling the bolt, make sure the keyed washer is not cocked hard against the firing pin as you center the cocking sleeve in the cocking nut. This may take a little finesse to get it perfectly centered by turning the cocking nut very slightly.

Inside the receiver look at the bolt raceway just in front of the sear/release lever engagement. Look for a smooth finish along the top flat where the cocking pin rides as you raise the bolt. Is it perfectly smooth? Polish and then lubricate this area lightly.

I have used these methods to greatly reduce bolt lift. Others here may share some tricks they use.

Good luck! and let us know what steps you tried and your results.

[Orezona]

I polished the cocking ramp on my 223 10 PC. It make a big difference.

[Robinhood]

There are a few things you can do to lighten bolt lift. Most of these steps pertain to the older bolt designs, not the newer ones with the cocking indicator, but some may cross over.

First of all, take a really close look at the aft baffle as you lift the bolt fully open. Pay attention to the ramp on the rear baffle and the adjacent ramp on the bolt handle. This is the primary extraction ramp and if it engages too soon it is trying to move the bolt backward before the bolt locking lugs come off the lug abutments in the forward part of the action. This happens sometimes in a factory original rifle, but more frequently if the bolt handle has been changed out for an aftermarket one with a longer bolt handle. Some careful grinding of the ramp on the aft baffle or bolt handle will fix the timing of this.

Install a 38 cal lift kit: Cut a .38 special case down to the web and place a ball bearing in the primer cup. Find one that just fits and barely extends above the cartridge head. Then remove the bolt assembly screw (BAS) and drop the lift kit into the back end of the cocking sleeve. Install the BAS and check lift. If it hangs up firmly at the top of the lift, install a washer between the BAS and bolt body or adjust the cocking nut a turn or two. There is a lift kit sold that has an adjustable centerpoint screw that makes this adjustment easier, although it comes with a new BAS that may not match your action color.

Reduce the firing spring pressure by unscrewing the cocking nut a couple of turns, but watch for primer cratering/blanking as an indicator that firing pin strength is too low.

Polish the cocking ramp in the bolt body to a mirror finish, and lubricate with a thin coat of STP or other "super lubricant" such as HOBO OIl.

Polish the cocking nut and the cocking sleeve internally with 1000 wet/dry sandpaper and also the firing pin in the area of milled flat on the threaded portion. This is where the keyed washer can hang up on the last thread during cocking or firing. When reassembling the bolt, make sure the keyed washer is not cocked hard against the firing pin as you center the cocking sleeve in the cocking nut. This may take a little finesse to get it perfectly centered by turning the cocking nut very slightly.

Inside the receiver look at the bolt raceway just in front of the sear/release lever engagement. Look for a smooth finish along the top flat where the cocking pin rides as you raise the bolt. Is it perfectly smooth? Polish and then lubricate this area lightly.

I have used these methods to greatly reduce bolt lift. Others here may share some tricks they use.

Good luck! and let us know what steps you tried and your results.


I have done a few of these steps and maybe another for excellent results.

[Blackrifle1]

I have a few Savage rifles and do like them alot. BUT, if you want "smooth, lite bolt lift" - buy a Tikka. There's absolutely NO comparison.

[Nontypical]

I sent mine to Grimstod at Desh Industries. He did some other work as well as his lift kit. It definitely seems smoother with less effort now.

[Robinhood]

Tikka's are for girls.

[Orezona]

Tikka's are for girls.

Yah, they cycle smoothly, light weight, accurate... Kind of like my Bergaras.:cool:

[Robinhood]

Bergara's are for sissy's?

















:pop2:




I do like me Bergara B14 HMR though. Call me a sissy.

[jkv45]

Savage rifles are like pickup trucks.

Tikkas and Bergaras are like sports sedans.

Before buying my Model 10 FCP HS Precision .308 I did consider Tikka and Bergara, but in the end the Savage won out - mostly because of the HS Precision stock. I have modified the bolt lift, and it's better, but it will never be like a Tikka or Bergara - which is fine as long as the rounds go where they are supposed to.

EDIT: I also added the larger "Tactical" bolt handle in place of the standard one. Slightly longer and larger, and gives a bit more leverage. Midway has them on sale regularly for about $25. Not sure why my Model 10 wouldn't come with one, other models do.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Like others, I have had about the same results.
My girlfriends model 12 in 223 is the only savage I have that has not been timed and trued.
I chucked up some brass in my lathe and made custom bolt lift kits to replace the loose fitting 38 special case. The ones I made fit the sleeve like a glove and use a small ball bearing.
On her model 12, I ended up using a washer that ended up being the exact same thickness as the lift kit insert I made. I added a little moly grease to the ball bearing.
I measured with a dial indicating inch pound torque wrench before and after. It reduced it by exactly 1 inch pound. So you pretty much do not even notice it. But I have not seen any reason to take it back apart and remove it.