Extra steps bedding heavier/longer barrel?

[daved20319]

So I've got a new Criterion barrel coming for my Savage 12 FV. It's a 28" bull barrel, and I'm wondering if I need to add or alter the regular process of bedding the action to address the extra weight/length. The rifle currently has a stock 26" Savage Varmint contour barrel, straight taper and about .800" at the muzzle. The new barrel is 1" at the muzzle, so pretty close to a cylinder. It's currently in a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock that I've already pillared and bedded, but I'll need to redo at least some of the bedding to account for the NSS recoil lug, and I expect I'll also need to open up the barrel channel. I guess my real question is, do I keep the barrel free floated, and just extend the bedding forward a bit to help take some of the stress off the action? Or do I bed the barrel most/all of the length of the forearm? I've never worked with a barrel this heavy or long before, so any suggestions will be much appreciate, thanks!

Dave

[JW]

The standard on savage rifles is to free float barrel to the lug.
I have seen some remington style ( no barrel nut) with bedding an inch or so in front of the lug and I have one like that.
I also have a few of the after market heavy barrel savages free floated all the way to the recoil lug.
I have one 1 1/4" straight contour 30" long on a remington action that is free floated to the lug

I would suggest if you think you need the extra support, then bed it in front of the lug.
If it doesn't shoot to you liking remove that bedding and see how it does
Jack

[big honkin jeep]

Just my .02,
Since you're mounting a truck axle to your action, And since the Boyds laminates in my opinion are a little soft especially around the action bolt escutcheons for heavy duty applications like that, especially without some really sturdy pillars installed and even when they are the differing epoxy VS laminate difference in material strengths supporting the weight around those 2 points might be one of those things that creeps into an unoccupied mind.

I would elect to go with a synthetic that already has a full length aluminum bedding block for a solid connection without fears of collapsing or over tightening the bolts into the escutcheons or splitting the wood with action screw torque.
An economical option would be a Choate tactical varmint or a B&C medalist varmint tactical (I guess they still make em). It wont be as pretty as a laminate without a paint job, but you'll never have to worry about it's strength rigidity or durability.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I use nothing but "straight pipes". Action mounted on a V Block or pillar bedded. I bed about 1" at or just beyond the nut. If the nut has slots, I'll wait till the bedding is hard then trim the high spots off. Free floated all the way to the end.
All of my stocks are laminated BR style. (think fence posts) Nothing special, just heavy around 15 lbs. + and never any issues with the actions or heavy barrels.

[daved20319]

Thanks for the replies, guys. BHJ, I've decided to follow your advice, I just bought one of those B&C stocks from fellow forum member Breeze. Hopefully, that'll address some of the short comings of the Boyd's stock, while still being a very similar profile, one that I happen to like a lot. And I can always add bedding if I think it's needed. Will keep you posted, and thanks again.

Dave

[big honkin jeep]

Thanks for the replies, guys. BHJ, I've decided to follow your advice, I just bought one of those B&C stocks from fellow forum member Breeze. Hopefully, that'll address some of the short comings of the Boyd's stock, while still being a very similar profile, one that I happen to like a lot. And I can always add bedding if I think it's needed. Will keep you posted, and thanks again.

Dave

Love my B&C medalist for heavy rigs.
As long as you don't run over it with a tank you'll be good to go for years.
I guess if You had a chance to look it over first you might have a better idea but do you plan to paint it or leave it as is?

[daved20319]

Love my B&C medalist for heavy rigs.
As long as you don't run over it with a tank you'll be good to go for years.
I guess if You had a chance to look it over first you might have a better idea but do you plan to paint it or leave it as is?

Unlikely I'll paint it, it's the textured black finish, which I think will look really nice with the SS barrel. I've always liked black and silver, must have been a Raiders fan in a previous life :cool:. I also like finishes with some grip, I'm enough of a butter fingers some days without adding a slick finish to the mix, especially when I start adding additional weight. Just out of curiosity, are you familiar with the Boyd's Pro Varmint, and if so, how does it compare to the B&C for feel? Thanks again.

Dave

[big honkin jeep]

I have a couple of Boyds but not the pro varmint.
I have a couple of thumbhole models, the AT1 thumbhole and a varmint thumbhole, so I am familiar with their laminate material.
They are good stocks, they look great, fit and point well, but I find the amount of torque I usually wind up with on my action screws to be a little much for the laminate material. It's much softer than the Savage factory laminate like on the BVSS models and I've found sometimes this can crush around the escutcheons or even bind the action where the trigger wont reset properly. Bedding and pillars can fix it, but if I have a rifle that needs significant torque on the screws it's just much easier in my opinion to select something more solid all the way around with a bedding block from the start.
I too have a stainless heavy barreled varmint rig in a B&C that's black web and it looks pretty good.
Sometimes you just want something a little different.
The paint doesn't have to be slick and can actually add texture. I've done several with a sponge camo using a sea sponge, rustoleum camo paint, and topped it with Testors dull coat lacquer and they came out really well with nothing slick about it except the look. The paint has held up really well even on a carbine I cut down that has seen a lot of "truck" and "4 wheeler gun" type use.
Good luck and I think you chose a solid quality stock for your build.

[Robinhood]

Tighten your recoil lug(Barrel Nut) to 70-90 ft/lb's. Thank me later.

[daved20319]

Tighten your recoil lug to 70-90 ft/lb's. Thank me later.

I assume you mean the barrel nut, this is one of those things that seems to vary hugely, ask 10 people the proper torque and you'll get 10 different answers. On my previous barrel swap I went with 50 ft/lbs., but I'll certainly be revisiting it. Later.

Dave

[gbflyer]

I have a couple of Boyds but not the pro varmint.
I have a couple of thumbhole models, the AT1 thumbhole and a varmint thumbhole, so I am familiar with their laminate material.
They are good stocks, they look great, fit and point well, but I find the amount of torque I usually wind up with on my action screws to be a little much for the laminate material. It's much softer than the Savage factory laminate like on the BVSS models and I've found sometimes this can crush around the escutcheons or even bind the action where the trigger wont reset properly. Bedding and pillars can fix it, but if I have a rifle that needs significant torque on the screws it's just much easier in my opinion to select something more solid all the way around with a bedding block from the start.
I too have a stainless heavy barreled varmint rig in a B&C that's black web and it looks pretty good.
Sometimes you just want something a little different.
The paint doesn't have to be slick and can actually add texture. I've done several with a sponge camo using a sea sponge, rustoleum camo paint, and topped it with Testors dull coat lacquer and they came out really well with nothing slick about it except the look. The paint has held up really well even on a carbine I cut down that has seen a lot of "truck" and "4 wheeler gun" type use.
Good luck and I think you chose a solid quality stock for your build.

I was under the impression that Boyd’s manufactures the non-plastic stocks for Savage. Maybe not.

[big honkin jeep]

I was under the impression that Boyd’s manufactures the non-plastic stocks for Savage. Maybe not.
Yes, the Boyds are wood laminates. He found and bought a B&C for his project which is synthetic with aluminum bedding block.

[Robinhood]

I assume you mean the barrel nut, this is one of those things that seems to vary hugely, ask 10 people the proper torque and you'll get 10 different answers. On my previous barrel swap I went with 50 ft/lbs., but I'll certainly be revisiting it. Later.

Dave

Yeah Maybe 50 is better.

[gbflyer]

Yes, the Boyds are wood laminates. He found and bought a B&C for his project which is synthetic with aluminum bedding block.

I didn’t make that clear. What I am trying to say is that I think Boyd’s makes the stocks that Savage uses on their factory wood guns. At least I have read that. Could be BS.

[daved20319]

For those that contributed and might be interested, here's the (mostly) finished rifle :cool:.

77957796

Haven't shot it yet, and probably won't get the chance till the middle of next week. Still have a few tweaks to do, had to open up the barrel channel for the bull barrel, it's fully free floated at the moment, but just barely, I'm going to open it up a bit more. Also forgot to reinstall my single shot sled, and I think I'm going to fill the void for the blind mag with lead. She tips the scales at 13 lbs. 11 oz. at the moment, but I'd like her closer to 15. Will post more after I shoot her. Later, and thanks to all that helped get me to this point.

Dave

[big honkin jeep]

That's a nice looking stick.
If that machine shoots as good as it looks, you're gonna be making hay.

[hamiltonkiler]

Did I miss caliber or cartridge?


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[daved20319]

Did I miss caliber or cartridge?


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Nope, looks like I never actually mentioned it, it's a 6.5 Creedmoor, although it started as a .223. Gotta love the barrel nut :cool:! Later.

Dave