Torque Tuning a Savage Action, Does it really work?

[Robinhood]

Apologies, should have read the article and looked at the pics first before asking about the torque wrench. Still interested in your thoughts about my other questions. Thanks.


You absolutely want to do it on pillared, bedded or chassis systems. Some may not be as sensitve however.

[charlie b]

This almost sounds like a bedding issue. Could it be that one needs to torque to the same values used during the bedding process?

[Fuj']

Do you think this also applies to an aluminum bedding block like in a choate? Or what about a devcon bedded laminate stick. Very interesting concept. I'll have to look into testing this with my rifles.

My aluminum chassis I use are one piece solid. The Choate v-block is molded
into plastic which would deaden it. For screw torquing I have both, a click
type (ancient Sears) and a Starrett strain needle in inch lbs. The Sears just
gets used for barrel torquing only.

[Texas10]

Do you think this also applies to an aluminum bedding block like in a choate? Or what about a devcon bedded laminate stick. Very interesting concept. I'll have to look into testing this with my rifles.

What type of tool do you use to set torque on your action screws? Is it like a nut driver that you can set the torque? Or do you use a ratchet type torque wrench?

Thanks for posting about this.

I don't think it matters what kind of torque wrench you use, as long as its repeatable. In fact, after setting the front screw torque, an allen wrench in the rear screw and gradually torquing it will work perfectly while letting the target tell you when you've hit the sweet spot. Then place a mark on the head of the screw so you'll know if it has loosened.

As for bedding a laminate stock, all of my stocks are bedded and pillared laminates. When using an aluminum bedded stock, be aware that aluminum is tricky to get epoxy to adhere to it as it forms a very hard oxide very quickly. Sand lightly, clean thoroughly, us an adhesion promoter or clear alodine and bond quickly, within 30 minutes.

[Texas10]

This almost sounds like a bedding issue. Could it be that one needs to torque to the same values used during the bedding process?

I think the general consensus is that you don't use action screws to pull the action into the bedding material during the bedding process. You'd be torquing the action into a soft substrate risking deforming it. i use elastic bands to hold the action tightly into the bedding. The kind used for blood draw work particularly well as they tend to stick to themselves and not loosen.

I prefer to bed the action into the stock and let it cure, then bed the pillars into the stock in a separate step.

If working in a cold environment like a garage in wintertime, be sure to warm everything before starting the bedding process, and use a warming box to keep it warm during cure. A simple hair dryer and cardboard box will do the trick.

[Fuj']

I use elastic bands to hold the action tightly into the bedding. The kind used for blood draw work particularly well as they tend to stick to themselves and not loosen.

I've used the same trick but switched to Zip ties years ago. 4 do the trick.