I too am having Accutrigger problems

[coffeediver]

The edge of the sear is damaged, from what I see in the pic.

What could cause the damage to the sear edge and would less than 1500 rounds with the trigger pull set light be enough to damage it?

Can the trigger assy be purchased anywhere but Savage and will they sell it to a non gunsmith?

Would an aftermarket trigger be better than stock?

And...Go

Barry

[loveha]

The sear has to be sold to a gunsmith.

There is another option, a Jard.
https://www.jardinc.com/savage-centerfire
Cheap they are not, but I love mine.
I gave an ELF trigger to my father, but that is just the trigger, no sear. The Jard is a drop in like your more common AR type triggers or even 700 style triggers. It has everything you need.

(I know nothing of the accutrigger. I handled one new rifle with it, hated the feel and never touched it again.)

[sharpshooter]

What could cause the damage to the sear edge and would less than 1500 rounds with the trigger pull set light be enough to damage it?

Can the trigger assy be purchased anywhere but Savage and will they sell it to a non gunsmith?

Would an aftermarket trigger be better than stock?



And...Go

Barry

Take a breath.........:eek: You probably don't need a trigger or a sear, just a touch up with a stone. But if that's above your pay grade, I understand. What caused it? Who knows at this point, I'd focus on a cure rather than the cause.

[Dave Hoback]

Exactly. I made a jig to hold at the proper angle and use Water stones to bring the surfaces parallel to one another. But even by hand, you can achieve a pretty flat surface. Just don’t Dremel!

Or look around...I’m sure you can find someonewith the know how, to stone the parts for free. Maybe even do a full trigger mod if you ask.

[Spudgun]

As much as I love the Accu trigger on the savages, I changed out the trigger to a Timney trigger.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timney-638-Trigger-fits-Savage-Accutrigger-Rifles-1-5-4LBS-Adjustable/252781765389?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The Accu trigger on my 12 F/V was able to adjust down to 1.2 Lb , but if I did not have even finger pressure on the trigger blade it would some times trip the sear before the safety lever would position it's self and cause the trigger to lock up and need to be re cocked with the bolt. Not a big deal but just a pain sometimes.

BTW, some material removal of the internal stock may be required (as indicated by others).

[CFJunkie]

coffeediver,

You don't have enough wear on that trigger to cause what you are experiencing.
I have the same rifle in .308 and have over 4300 rounds through it in the Accu-Stock.
I adjusted my trigger to 2 lbs. as soon as I got it. At about 2500 rounds, the rear spring loosened up to under 1.5 lbs and I experienced the front tab lock-up that comes from having the trigger set too light.
I readjusted it and put a drop of Locktite on the adjustment screw and it hasn't happened since.

I have an earlier 10 FP .308 with a hidden mag and have over 10,000 rounds on its trigger. It has a hidden mag and an upper bolt release. It is also adjusted to 2 lbs but the spring never loosen and has been functioning flawlessly since 2009.

I have 9 Savages, and have two with top bolt releases mounted in Oryx chassis. Never had to move any springs to get them to fit perfectly. Never had the trigger issues you had either.
As I understand it, the Oryx chassis has a slot to allow you to release the bolt.
Perhaps that is the issue. I have never tried to mount the Oryx on an lower bolt release, so I can't comment on whether the lower bolt release might be the problem.

[Shooter0302]

Yesterday I braved the 108* temp./heat index to test two bullet/loads, the Fn 110 Tactical would not fire, trigger wouldn't move. Packed up and on the way home was thinking RB-2,. at home I pulled it out of the stock and everything worked as 2 Mo. ago.Back in the stock, torqued the bolts to 35 in/# ** as before and all was good.Tride going higher as suggested in the "helpful hints" and the trigger would not move

[coffeediver]

coffeediver,

You don't have enough wear on that trigger to cause what you are experiencing.
I have the same rifle in .308 and have over 4300 rounds through it in the Accu-Stock.
I adjusted my trigger to 2 lbs. as soon as I got it. At about 2500 rounds, the rear spring loosened up to under 1.5 lbs and I experienced the front tab lock-up that comes from having the trigger set too light.
I readjusted it and put a drop of Locktite on the adjustment screw and it hasn't happened since.

I have an earlier 10 FP .308 with a hidden mag and have over 10,000 rounds on its trigger. It has a hidden mag and an upper bolt release. It is also adjusted to 2 lbs but the spring never loosen and has been functioning flawlessly since 2009.

I have 9 Savages, and have two with top bolt releases mounted in Oryx chassis. Never had to move any springs to get them to fit perfectly. Never had the trigger issues you had either.
As I understand it, the Oryx chassis has a slot to allow you to release the bolt.
Perhaps that is the issue. I have never tried to mount the Oryx on an lower bolt release, so I can't comment on whether the lower bolt release might be the problem.

Yes the Oryx chassis has a slot in order to actuate the bolt release using a tool. No issue there. The trigger does the same thing no matter if I adjust the as heavy as it will go in or out of the chassis. If I try to lighten it up it will not stay cocked at all.

[sharpshooter]

It doesn't take much wear to give engagement problems considering the trigger was engineered with negative engagement. The only thing that ensures engagement is spring pressure. The only thing that protects against AD is the safety blade.

[Shooter0302]

Yesterday I braved the 108* temp./heat index to test two bullet/loads, the Fn 110 Tactical would not fire, trigger wouldn't move. Packed up and on the way home was thinking RB-2,. at home I pulled it out of the stock and everything worked as 2 Mo. ago.Back in the stock, torqued the bolts to 35 in/# ** as before and all was good.Tride going higher as suggested in the "helpful hints" and the trigger would not move
7-26, went to check the scope POA/POI as I misplaced my notes. POS accutrigger wouldn't fire AGAIN, took it out of the stock, no problem, back on stock, torqued the front screw to 30 in/lb, then the back one. POS, backed the rear screw to 20 in/lb. and it works. Added torque driver to shooting bag.
Tomorrow I'll see who has the best price on a RB-2

[mnbogboy2]

7-26, went to check the scope POA/POI as I misplaced my notes. POS accutrigger wouldn't fire AGAIN, took it out of the stock, no problem, back on stock, torqued the front screw to 30 in/lb, then the back one. POS, backed the rear screw to 20 in/lb. and it works. Added torque driver to shooting bag.
Tomorrow I'll see who has the best price on a RB-2

My gut feeling is that there is a slight interference with the trigger/trigger components & the stock when it is torqued down into the accu block. The sear itself comes real close to the rear action screw & bedding block/pillar.
Here is what may work for you.
Color every "corner" of the trigger housing, sear, bolt release, trigger shoe with a "color crayon" or even chalk. Carefully insert the action into the stock taking care not to touch the colored parts to the stock. Torque it back down tight 35-45 inch pounds. Remove bolts and again carefully lift out the action. The interference should show in the stock. Remove suspect material as required.
Clean & repeat until no interference is found.
At least that's what I would do if the problem wasn't obvious.

[Shooter0302]

I'll try that, what is a puzzle to is that after working on the trigger springs I've fired close to 70+ rounds with no problem, gave it a good cleaning, then it set in the corner with 2 BR rifles for a month or so, then last week it went to crap.

[mnbogboy2]

I'll try that, what is a puzzle to is that after working on the trigger springs I've fired close to 70+ rounds with no problem, gave it a good cleaning, then it set in the corner with 2 BR rifles for a month or so, then last week it went to crap.

I ran into a similar problem a while back where a perfectly working SSS trigger started tripping on bolt closure. This rifle trigger combination had worked flawlessly for thousands of rounds. The trigger shoe had been seriously close to the trigger guard and actually showed a slight wear mark. Although this action combination had been out of this stock dozens of times. But this last time something must have changed a "thousandth" or two!
Could be you find something simple to remedy.
Good luck,
Randy

[coffeediver]

Just an update.

Took the rifle to a friend of mine and he determined the the trigger and sear were only connecting on one edge of the mating surface. He cleaned up the mating surfaces and for $45 I have a trigger that feels factory new.

Thanks for all the responses.

Barry

[mnbogboy2]

Happy you found it.
Good shooting.