Tools for barrel removal?

[TORCHRIDER]

I am sure this has been asked 1000 times, but I have not found what I am looking for. What tools do I need to remove factory Savage/Stevens barrels and install an aftermarket one? Barrel wrench? Action Wrench? Both? What brands do you recommend. I want decent quality because I will be doing this to a few actions/barrels. Thanks for the help!

Dave

[OICU812]

Hi Dave,

You will need a barrel vise (You can buy an expensive custom one or use a regular shop vise with a set of soft block you can make yourself out of wood) and a barrel nut wrench for removal. To install you will need thwe same items + a set of headspace guages and some anti-seize compound for the threads. The barrel nut wrench,anti-seize compound, and head space guages can be ordered all at the same time from various places. Hope this helps.

Joe

[drybean]

my best advice is to buy a wheeler action wrench
a barrel nut wrench from northland or sss

drybean

[sinman]

barrel nut wrench, action wrench, a boot (for a swift kick), and head space guages. plus you will need what ever common tools to get the action out of the stock and scope/bases off.

[geargrinder]

Yep that's it. Action and nut wrenches are the ones to get, definitely skip the barrel vise.

[gotcha]

Torchrider, I'd +1 Drybeans advice. But, go w/ the NSS wrench. You'll get excellent service & sage advice on the barrel swap if needed. These tools will last a life time. Put masking tape on the bbl. wrench surfaces that contact the action to avoid scratches.

[gotcha]

Sorry, meant to say: tape action wrench surfaces that touch action. Alzheimers allows me to meet so many new & interesting people.

[82boy]

I have changed a few Savage barrels in my time and I have never used an action wrench. A set of hard wood blocks with a hole drilled down the center of them and a nut wrench is all you need.

[OICU812]

I have changed a few Savage barrels in my time and I have never used an action wrench. A set of hard wood blocks with a hole drilled down the center of them and a nut wrench is all you need.


I was going to state the same thing 82boy. I declined to do so however since I am a non paying member (only until later this week) with a low post count I figured I would be flamed off the board!

geargrinder, I have a honest to goodness question for you Sir. How exactly do you hold the barreled action stationary if you "definitely skip the barrel vise" while only using an action wrench and barrel nut wrench?
Please take no offense as I mean none. I am honestly curious about your procedure without locking everything down in a barrel vise.

[Blue Avenger]

most action wrenches have a 2 foot handle for lots of leverage. others are bolted down like barrel vices.

[BillPa]

How exactly do you hold the barreled action stationary if you "definitely skip the barrel vise" while only using an action wrench and barrel nut wrench?
Please take no offense as I mean none. I am honestly curious about your procedure without locking everything down in a barrel vise.




Simple.

My way for factory installed barrels......
http://i33.tinypic.com/3ggat.jpg

Its only for those "snug" factory installs. The rest of the time it hides under the workbench.

Afterward for swaps....
http://i34.tinypic.com/21omvia.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/20iwen6.jpg

Bill

[ellobo]

Before I learned about action wrenches I only had a nut wrench and barrel vice. Never could get the vice to work on the two staggerfeed actions I had. So, I took a pc. of 2x4 lumber and made it fit into the action through the magazine cutout first removing the magazine. I clamped that in a vise and beat the snot out of the wrench with the biggest hammer I could find. Didnt loosen the nut. I then got long pc. of pipe, flatted one end to fit over the wrench. It gave me a lot of torque. Still didnt move the nut. I ended cutting the nut off with an abrasive disc on a dremel tool. It did work on the next one which was still pretty tight. The initial pounding on the wrench was so violent it almost destroyed the cogs that fit into the nut grooves. In the army we called a procedure like this a "field expediant". PS: both rifles are MOA shooters. 7x57 and .35 Whelen.

El Lobo the hacker

[82boy]

I was going to state the same thing 82boy. I declined to do so however since I am a non paying member (only until later this week) with a low post count I figured I would be flamed off the board!


I would not worry about it, I seriously doubt anyone would flame you. Heck, I been flamed several times over stuff I have said. This site is fairly good about respectin other people, and it is one of our goals as moderators is to keep the peace.

[OICU812]

most action wrenches have a 2 foot handle for lots of leverage. others are bolted down like barrel vices.


I have used the handle type on several 98 K's,Ruger 77's, and Win. 70's. I have personally never seen or known of a bolt down type action wrench. Would this type of action wrench not lock the action down rigid necessitating the need to use a break over bar as I do on the bbl. nut wrench only in reverse with the bbl. vise? I am trying to visualize it and this is my thought on this particular method. I notice that you too are a fan of Parker Otto (AKA P.O. Ackley)! ;D



Simple.

My way for factory installed barrels......
Its only for those "snug" factory installs. The rest of the time it hides under the workbench.
Afterward for swaps....
Bill



Bill, that is a pretty thrifty little set up. Is that a torque wrench of some sort you have installed in the action? Like the old saying goes, there is definatly more ways than one to skin a cat!

[OICU812]

Before I learned about action wrenches I only had a nut wrench and barrel vice. Never could get the vice to work on the two staggerfeed actions I had. So, I took a pc. of 2x4 lumber and made it fit into the action through the magazine cutout first removing the magazine. I clamped that in a vise and beat the snot out of the wrench with the biggest hammer I could find. Didnt loosen the nut. I then got long pc. of pipe, flatted one end to fit over the wrench. It gave me a lot of torque. Still didnt move the nut. I ended cutting the nut off with an abrasive disc on a dremel tool. It did work on the next one which was still pretty tight. The initial pounding on the wrench was so violent it almost destroyed the cogs that fit into the nut grooves. In the army we called a procedure like this a "field expediant". PS: both rifles are MOA shooters. 7x57 and .35 Whelen.

El Lobo the hacker


I guess I am just fortunate in the area of evading the illustrious "factory Gorilla "I have always heard about as I have not had one yet I could not break loose with just a barrel vise,bbl. nut wrench, and sometimes the help of a break over bar.







I was going to state the same thing 82boy. I declined to do so however since I am a non paying member (only until later this week) with a low post count I figured I would be flamed off the board!


I would not worry about it, I seriously doubt anyone would flame you. Heck, I been flamed several times over stuff I have said. This site is fairly good about respectin other people, and it is one of our goals as moderators is to keep the peace.


Thanks for the words of inspiration. I just try to share what I know and learn from others in an attempt to learn something new everyday and maybe help someone else along the way without offending anyone or stepping on toes. I have done so before never intentionally meaning to do so.

TORCHRIDER,
It seems as though you have been given several good,proven methods to barrel removal/installation. I hope you find the one and tools that fit your needs listed here Sir!

[hailstone]

When you encounter that factory rifle that the illustrious "factory Gorilla" tightened. Rifle was bought by "bubba the moron" who use god only knows which thread locker on the scope base screws. Since bubba subscribed to that school of thought if a little bit is good then the whole bottle should work better.

Enter innocent old hailstone who decides since this rifle is marked down too hundred bucks it would be good project rifle. Let the fun begin!! First attempt too remove the barrel using hard wood blocks as a barrel vise using first the vise then twenty ton hydraulic press. You guessed it, it didn't come off. Next chucked piece of steel in my mill and made action wrench similar too BillPa's. Used this in combination with barrel vise and hydraulic press with same results. Got couple of buddies to help the next heating the action/barrel with heat gun to break/soften locktite bond. Still no go. Finally ordered a action wrench and while that was in transit soaked the action/barrel with Kroil. With everything on site proceeded too set up the action wrench using 120# paper strip between blued action and wrench too avoid scratching the blueing. Made four foot cheater pipes for action wrench and barrel nut wrench. After all preperations were made my buddy again heated the action with heat gun for around half hour before any attempts were made. After all this preperation with my 200 lbs weight on those four foot cheater pipes finally got the barrel nut loose.

After getting the rifle disassembled begin examining everything. Believe bubba must have used Lock Tite 290 thread locker which is a wicking type used in some situations. It had wicked into all the threads from chamber end through the barrel nut. Count your blessings when barrel nuts come loose easily. When they don't hope you have the tools, equipment and skills too overcome the stubborn nut. God save us from "factory Gorilla's" and "bubba the moron".

[geargrinder]

That wasn't thread locker. It's residual salts from the bluing process.