Savage 10 preaccutrigger?

[zr600]

Ok I adjusted the trigger on my wife’s preaccutrigger model 10. I adjusted it down to 3lbs, safety works, it doesn’t slam fire. Now this trigger had two screws on the back and no screw on the front by the sear. Will this be safe to hunt with I slapped the butt down worked the bolt hard and it doesn’t fire. My only worry was it didn’t have an adjustable sear. Had two screws on the back and the weight screw. Now my other question is after I put it back together the blind mag it has wood stock. But the steel mag box is protruding and the bolt
his hitting it causing the bolt to be hard to open when the head gets to it. Why would this be this way wasn’t like that before. Any advice would be great.

[olddav]

Back off the front action screw and see if it improves.

[zr600]

I used a torque wrench was the same setting I had it at before. Why would that cause it? It hitting more at the back of the mag box too not the front of it.

[CFJunkie]

The blind mag can be unseated easily when you are messing with the stock and the trigger.
Check that the clip that positions the mag in place is not out of position.

I have had a similar problem when I was not observant doing the reassembly.

[olddav]

I thought that perhaps the front action screws was rubbing in the bolt head, but your second post cleared that up for me.

[big honkin jeep]

Does the "weight screw" as you call it (I call it the trigger return spring screw) have an arch in it after you made the adjustment?
Did you lock it down with some nail polish after adjusting?
If the answer to either of these questions is No then I would go back and start over with the trigger job just to be safe.

It seems that you are working with one of the "Lawyer" triggers without the sear adjustment. The best way I have found to lighten the pre accutrigger 3 screw ( with sear adjustment), and lawyer triggers (no sear adjustment) is to install a lighter spring on the trigger return.
They are very easy to make with some music wire from the hardware store. I believe most of mine are made from .043 piano wire though I have heard of them being made out of a spinner bait arm. Just bend the wire into the shape of the spring with a couple of pairs of pliars. Once installed they need to be adjusted to maintain a slight arch with constant pressure on them.
If there is no arch and no tension on full reset it's entirely possible to create an unsafe trigger that will fire when the safety is pushed forward into the fire position. ( one heck of a wake up call ) Also if the adjustment screws on the trigger are not locked down ( I degrease them with denatured alcohol and use clear nail polish to lock them) they can adjust themselves under recoil also making for unsafe conditions from out of adjustment safetys to triggers that dont fully reset.

Just thought I'd put these tips out there just in case. Unforseen or unpredictable discharges are no fun, Have fun, be safe.

PS. The sear on a lawyer trigger can also be shimmed. I did one by protecting the face of my sear, then using a wire welder to make a spot weld below the face of the sear ( just a little bump). Then I filed it down until the engagement was to my liking.

Also sounds like you may have slightly bent one of the mag tabs. If you try to bend it back be darn careful. those old style blind boxes are getting hard to find. You may have also overtightened the action screws, Be careful because they will compress the wood. Then you'll almost certainly have to do a pillar job to fix it.