Do Headspace Gauge brands matter

[oley55]

For a non-professional swapping Savage barrels, does one brand of headspace gauges matter over another, i.e. Forster or Clymer?

[Dave Hoback]

No, any of the trusted brands will do their job.

[sharpshooter]

I have found that they vary from different manufacturers, but they are still within the tolerance range of gauges.

[Ted_Feasel]

For a non-professional swapping Savage barrels, does one brand of headspace gauges matter over another, i.e. Forster or Clymer?I like clymer but no, they are all so close. You do want to stick with same brand/set for go and no go. Buy a set of go/no goes that were produced together and not for example clymer go and forester no go.

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[Dave Hoback]

I actually only use a “Go” gauge. Then I cut a shim from .003” or .004” feeler gauge, and shape it the same diameter as the base of the Go gauge.

[Ted_Feasel]

I actually only use a “Go” gauge. Then I cut a shim from .003” or .004” feeler gauge, and shape it the same diameter as the base of the Go gauge.I've heard of folks doing that, i recon it would save you the cost of the no go.. I've never measured with a mic the difference between go/no go.. I'll have to try that and cut a feeler to match.. seems sound enough:)

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[000Robert]

I actually only use a “Go” gauge. Then I cut a shim from .003” or .004” feeler gauge, and shape it the same diameter as the base of the Go gauge.
Good idea! Feeler gauges come in handy for many things.

[azguy]

It never stops amazing me that when someone who is trying to learn how to work on their own gun that people who he believes really know would offer such crude advise.

[Ted_Feasel]

Just measured my go/no goes 6.5 creedmoor at a difference .0035, my 308 .003, 22/250 .004.

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[gbflyer]

It never stops amazing me that when someone who is trying to learn how to work on their own gun that people who he believes really know would offer such crude advise.

So you’re saying you don’t approve of a piece of scotch tape on the base of the go - gauge for no-go either?[emoji1]

[celltech]

I use cheap feeler gauges as shim stock all the time. The bolt could care less where that extra .003" came from. And if you want to get the spacing tighter than spec you can easily do so.

[Axlrod]

It never stops amazing me that when someone who is trying to learn how to work on their own gun that people who he believes really know would offer such crude advise.
I buy both everytime - cheap insurance for me. But I know a very reputable custom gun maker that uses shim stock for setting headspace on shouldered barrels for competition guns, when he wants a specific non- saami headspace.

[sharpshooter]

No go gauges are meant for production situations. It's an easy way to tell whether something is within production tolerances. Most professional gunsmiths don't bother with no go gauges on custom built rifles either, there are better ways to measure than feel. The most sensible way is to use a go gauge and a strip of plasti-gage. It will tell you exactly how much clearance you have past the go gauge.

[azguy]

I guess it depends on how much a guy cares about how his gun turns out.
I run .0015 headspace on my bolt 223. and I carefully check and reset until that is what I have. When I resize I hold my brass to .001 headspace.

[oley55]

Actually the use of some shim stock makes good dollars for cents sense for the no-go, but I'm picturing a "monkey and a football" trying to keep that little circle of shim stock in place between the go gauge and the bolt face. Although a tiny dab of Vaseline would likely hold it in the bolt face without altering the length we are trying to measure. Or better yet clamping the barrel vise in a more vertical orientation.

[azguy]

No go gauges are meant for production situations. It's an easy way to tell whether something is within production tolerances. Most professional gunsmiths don't bother with no go gauges on custom built rifles either, there are better ways to measure than feel. The most sensible way is to use a go gauge and a strip of plasti-gage. It will tell you exactly how much clearance you have past the go gauge.

There is the key, Professional gunsmith does carefully set the headspace using plasti-gage. The average guy trying to learn how to install more than likely can not read plasti-gage. Go,No gage gives the average guy a method of doing the job.

[Dave Hoback]

Funny. Not exactly sure what is “crude”. Never actually gave any advice. Simply was saying what I do. Used to use the ol’ scotch tape trick everyone knows...and ya know what? Ain’t never had a single problem with that method. But awhile back I was using feeler gages for different machining tricks and thought, “hmmm”. Went and checked, and last one I set up WON’T close with a .003” shim on the base of the “Go”. So it’s under .003” headspace. I could use a .002” shim and set it lower, but where it is quite alright.

I don’t have much in the way of “throw away money” see. I need to keep spending pretty light. Saving the cost of $30 on a “No Go” gauge may seem like nothing to some, but to me that $30 can be much better served in the form of a couple end mills or other machining tidbits.

So I fail to see what us “Crude” in that?

[mnbogboy2]

I guess it depends on how much a guy cares about how his gun turns out.
I run .0015 headspace on my bolt 223. and I carefully check and reset until that is what I have. When I resize I hold my brass to .001 headspace.

How do you measure that close? I mean how do you set your headspace that close without using shims ? Do you have an in between gauge? Could a guy turn a new one on the lathe and then just "snug" it up?
I've done a hundred or so savage barrels and I still only use a go gauge & scotch tape & feel. Recently I headspace my 5 different 6.5 Creeds as close as I could get them by "feel" so I could use the same reloading die setting. Couldn't do it, one was .0005 off.

[000Robert]

Funny. Not exactly sure what is “crude”. Never actually gave any advice. Simply was saying what I do. Used to use the ol’ scotch tape trick everyone knows...and ya know what? Ain’t never had a single problem with that method. But awhile back I was using feeler gages for different machining tricks and thought, “hmmm”. Went and checked, and last one I set up WON’T close with a .003” shim on the base of the “Go”. So it’s under .003” headspace. I could use a .002” shim and set it lower, but where it is quite alright.

I don’t have much in the way of “throw away money” see. I need to keep spending pretty light. Saving the cost of $30 on a “No Go” gauge may seem like nothing to some, but to me that $30 can be much better served in the form of a couple end mills or other machining tidbits.

So I fail to see what us “Crude” in that?
I agree with you. I am just starting to learn gunsmithing and need to save money when I can.

[GaCop]

I actually only use a “Go” gauge. Then I cut a shim from .003” or .004” feeler gauge, and shape it the same diameter as the base of the Go gauge. +1 same here.