338 LAPUA (new guy old problem)

[rdb8847]

Hello

I apologize up front for my ignorance

Wondering if the tight chamber - sticking brass issue was ever solved. I have one in the safe that I have not shot for 3 years or more because I got tired of having to use a rod to remove brass. I remember there was alot of discussion about the tight chamber - sticky brass - issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.......

[Ted_Feasel]

Hello

I apologize up front for my ignorance

Wondering if the tight chamber - sticking brass issue was ever solved. I have one in the safe that I have not shot for 3 years or more because I got tired of having to use a rod to remove brass. I remember there was alot of discussion about the tight chamber - sticky brass - issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.......I've seen lacquered brass dang near glue its self in the chamber.. did you have any scars on the fired extracted case?

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[yobuck]

There was a recent discussion regarding Savage actions being adequate for cartridges like the 338 Lapua.
But it wasent about cases being stuck in the chamber after firing.
There are some basic common sense things like cleaning that you’ve no doubt done.
Ive been using large capacity cases in various guns for many years.
And there’s no doubt in my mind that more issues like stuck cases are apt to happen with them than with smaller cases.
We always have an old cleaning rod in the vehicle while were hunting along with a few brass brushes of proper size for the guns we have along.
As a rule new or once fired brass that has been (full length resized,) wont cause issues.
We could have another long debate here about sizing brass, but when using the ammo for hunting, full length sizing is the safest way to go.
So if you aren’t doing that, I’d recommend you do and see if it helps. Otherwise I’d be taking it to a qualified gunsmith.

[Ted_Feasel]

There was a recent discussion regarding Savage actions being adequate for cartridges like the 338 Lapua.
But it wasent about cases being stuck in the chamber after firing.
There are some basic common sense things like cleaning that you’ve no doubt done.
Ive been using large capacity cases in various guns for many years.
And there’s no doubt in my mind that more issues like stuck cases are apt to happen with them than with smaller cases.
We always have an old cleaning rod in the vehicle while were hunting along with a few brass brushes of proper size for the guns we have along.
As a rule new or once fired brass that has been (full length resized,) wont cause issues.
We could have another long debate here about sizing brass, but when using the ammo for hunting, full length sizing is the safest way to go.
So if you aren’t doing that, I’d recommend you do and see if it helps. Otherwise I’d be taking it to a qualified gunsmith.I would agree with everything you said but I I definitely feel like he needs to eliminate if there could be a burr or something. I've never had stuck cases(fingers crossed) on anything, even my belted mags.. another possibility is if this is reloads it could be work hardened to the point the spring back is not springing back, if that's the case (no pun intended) then annealing MAY solve the issue.. but again I have seen ALOT of folk bring me their ARs and bolt guns for cycle problems and come to find out on close inspection the is a almost unnoticeable glaze in the chamber caused by shoot cheap lacquered ammo that basically becomes like epoxy when heated then cools and on top of it all because of its thickness will essentially hydraulically lock the case just like not letting liquid evap of first when running into resizing die.. just some out there possibilities but they are free to check:)

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[tobnpr]

I have a new 110BA in .338, no issues at all.
Hard extraction can be due to a number of issues- or combination of issues.

First, and most suspect in my mind is a bad chamber. I've had the pleasure of "fixing" a few of these (not in .338) that have come through, too many of these get by Savage QC.
Rings, gouges, or anything suspect-looking with the fired brass? Best done with the barrel pulled, but do your best to inspect the chamber looking down the bolt raceway with a light on the chamber.

This was a 6.5 Creedmoor. Customer didn't want to deal with Savage and the wait, so I set it back and deepened the chamber. Shot in the 1's afterward.

https://i.imgur.com/DefviBal.jpg

[gbflyer]

I have a new 110BA in .338, no issues at all.
Hard extraction can be due to a number of issues- or combination of issues.

First, and most suspect in my mind is a bad chamber. I've had the pleasure of "fixing" a few of these (not in .338) that have come through, too many of these get by Savage QC.
Rings, gouges, or anything suspect-looking with the fired brass? Best done with the barrel pulled, but do your best to inspect the chamber looking down the bolt raceway with a light on the chamber.

This was a 6.5 Creedmoor. Customer didn't want to deal with Savage and the wait, so I set it back and deepened the chamber. Shot in the 1's afterward.

https://i.imgur.com/DefviBal.jpg

Dang. Looks like they were practicing internal threading in the chamber! Rigorous QC right there....jeez.

[mnbogboy2]

Hello

I apologize up front for my ignorance

Wondering if the tight chamber - sticking brass issue was ever solved. I have one in the safe that I have not shot for 3 years or more because I got tired of having to use a rod to remove brass. I remember there was alot of discussion about the tight chamber - sticky brass - issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.......

Guessing you checked primary extraction at the time, but wouldn't hurt to double check.
Another question, does factory ammo act the same?
Is it an aftermarket barrel?
Small shank or large shank?
One problem that some may argue with is that using larger diameter, higher pressure cartridges in a small shank will cause more "chamber stretch". With looser fitting threads the "stretch" is more. Regardless if the action itself is the same outside diameter.
Just some thoughts.

[rdb8847]

Thank you for the replies and suggestions

A bit more info that I should have included with the original post.

All new factory ammo. HSM and Federal.

Did not experience any issues during the first three or four outings. But I never got it very warm during those trips. No marks on the brass indicating defects in the chamber. I thought it might be just carbon but it seems to continue to be a problem after a good cleaning

[mnbogboy2]

Thank you for the replies and suggestions

A bit more info that I should have included with the original post.

All new factory ammo. HSM and Federal.

Did not experience any issues during the first three or four outings. But I never got it very warm during those trips. No marks on the brass indicating defects in the chamber. I thought it might be just carbon but it seems to continue to be a problem after a good cleaning

Being it extracted to begin with my first place to look would be primary extraction. Simple things like a loose BAS (bolt assembly screw) can eliminate any small primary extraction that you had. Lug setback in 338 Lapuas have been rumored also. Again this could "steal" from the PE.
There are several tests and fixes for checking & repairing PE.
Searches on this forum will lead you to them if you haven't done them already.
If you find anything there is a bunch of great guys on here that will be glad to assist you in correcting your problem.
Good luck,
Randy

[efm77]

I remember early on hearing about Hornady brass being too soft and causing sticky extraction. I think they've remedied that though in recent years as I've used their brass and not had any issues. But as others have said it could be a couple of different things. I personally haven't experienced any lug setback, nor have I seen others with Savage's Lapua specific receiver have any issue with it. Many of them with many more rounds fired in them than mine. However, I have read up on it and picked others' brains on here extensively, and do understand the concern. That could be the issue, or it could be as simple as a loose bolt assembly screw as mnbogboy2 stated above. Do you have headspace gauges for it? If so, you could check your headspace and see if you have any lug setback without having to remove the barrel.

[Shortbox4x4]

I’ve ran a 338 Lapua barrel on my old 112V J series single shot rifle. I set it up with out the barrel nut. Shouldered like a Remmy. So it was a small shank/thread size but in front of the recoil lug the barrel diameter was 1.235”. It was the M24 contour which is 1.235” x 3” str taper to .905” at 27” finish.

I had no issues with sticky extraction and or bolt lift.

I ran Hornady brass (no issues) ever. This was back in 2007 to 2009 when I was doing the testing. I ran Lapua brass as well as box RUAG ammo with 250 and 300gr bullets. I’ve heard complaints on Lapua brass issues with sticking and resizing issues also. Again I never expierenced any brass issues with any of the above.

Even when I loaded what was suppose to be a book max load with H1000 powder (loaded 10 rounds) to see how they would work...I had the double click on the bolt lift but the brass extracted and ejected fine. Accuracy wise that hot load just pounded nice small groups. LOL!

So as has been pointed out I would have the chamber checked for any issues first. Check the lugs on the bolt or receiver for any set back. Check head space etc...That’s where I would start.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels