Parallax ? What do you do?

[8mm RUM]

Do you mess with it, or wing it?

https://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/und...ting-parallax/ (https://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/understanding-and-correcting-parallax/)


That seems to sum it up I guess.
It has never been a concern to me maybe it should be.
The way I take it is If your NOT EXACTLY square to both leases the crass heirs will move across the target if the Parallax is not set right?
I guess I never noticed. I have shot many animals at well over 300 yards, must have a lota luck, or set the scope/rifle precisely right?
The new Burris has a parallax adjustment ring on the front of the scope.
I'm thinking for hunting purposes I'll just leave it at around 200 yards.
I don't plan on hunting coyotes with it so tight quartets should not happen fast and need to be thinking about such stuff.
BUT if I need to go out to 400/500 yards with the 8 I now can and try it out.
Thoughts anyone?
Clear as mud right?

[Jester560]

All of my scopes have side focus parallax adjustment and I use it every time I go shooting. When constantly changing ranges from 100 to 800 yards, parallax is an issue.

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[Apollo117]

To build off what @Jester560 said, I think parallax becomes more of an issue at longer ranges or when shooting variable ranges.

In most hunting situations, with a shot around 300 yards or less, parallax is less of a noticable issue.

Also, if your scope is mounted correctly, then you are less likely to experience issues with parallax.

[hamiltonkiler]

It doesn’t much matter if your not into shooting good groups. Yes for a deer rifle it doesn’t much matter.
It’s another way to focus also, near and far.
Get behind a scope with an adjustable objective and look at targets near and far, adjust and bob your head/eye until you have minimum cross hair shift.


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[Jester560]

The easiest way to check for parallax....

Get behind the scope and sight on a target. While looking thru the scope, move your head around while maintaining a sight picture thru the scope. If the reticle is moving around as you do, you have parallax. When parallax free, the reticle should stay still as you move your head around.

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[DeltaNu1142]

I need to fool around with this. I'm really curious about how close my parallax adjustment knob will get me actually ranging a target... that is, by turning the parallax knob until the picture is clear and the reticles don't move with my head and then looking at the knob to see what it's set to. Since it's marked in 50-yd increments, I wouldn't expect to get too precise. And obviously I should be able to range the target with the reticle itself anyway... but again, I'm curious.

[yobuck]

It’s my (opinion), that the knob on the side of the scope is used more for focusing than for actually setting parralex by many shooters.
With scopes having the adjustment on the front of the scope, it tends to be left where it was actually set for the parralex.

[8mm RUM]

Lot of differing information and opinions.
My take is;
It has little to do with Clearidy /focus as to where its clear and focused.
You want it to focus on the lens not in front of or in back of.
I'm going to mess with it and see what its all about.
I'll have to use my range finder alot more in hunting circumstances.
I often shoot out to 400/500 yards so I'll have to work on it out to there.
Sounds like a lot of walking....

[Miocene]

Jester560- perfect description.

Anyone can debunk a myth regarding parallax, try a FIXED objective (and without 3rd turret) hunting scope. Lots of them out there. Look at your known 50 yd target, any power setting, center your eye, get comfy, now move your head and watch your reticle. You're all over the place right? Most 'fixed' are designed parallax free at 100 yds. Serious rimfire folks know what parallax can do without perfectly consistent shooter form and go to the emth degree be parallax free: even at 50 yds.
The trick is to remove parallax at your given target range while balancing your target clarity. The scope yardage indicator is just a rough macro adjustment. Fine tune from there.
Hunting? When I used to hunt and something stepped out that I was not prepared for in regards of yardage, yep - I winged it too.
Funny, I don't seem to remember how clear my intended target animal was, much less about parallax adjustment. Only the cross hair junction, placement, and that slow exhale :)

[Robinhood]

Reticle is focused with a light background. Parallax distance marks are meaningless due to resolution. Parallax correction is critical for point of aim being the same as point of impact.

[Miocene]

So true Mr. Hood.
Let's face it, you have a larger zone for shot placement and still have a clean kill compared to fractions of an inch on a target. Knowing your limits (shooter capability and caliber) for distance kept most shots relatively short.
Once I learned what parallax was and how it DID affect my POI, my groups shrank considerably. Correcting for parallax has positive effects both on paper and meat in the freezer.

[yobuck]

Consistent cheek weld on the stock from shot to shot will eliminate most parralex issues anyway.
In other words don’t move your face on the stock from shot to shot and there is no parralex.
Which is yet another reason why how we shoot as in the position we use is critical.
Prone shooting for example at long distance is fine provided the terrain allows for a consistent cheek weld, which doesn’t always work well with live targets.
Otherwise pick a different shooting method.