Bedding Problem

[thunderchief]

Received my Bobby Hart long Range Stock about a month ago:
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,35691.0.html

Got everything done that I wanted too, got the pillars installed and relief cut for the centerfeed mag, everything is duracoated, rail inletted, everything is ready except for the bedding. I usually use the Acraglass Gel and have nothing but great results from it. This time I decided to use the Devcon Steel Putty. Great stuff to mix, easy to measure (by volume), strong as "steel", but I have just bedded this stock for the second time in a row and it is still not perfect. The first time, I used my usual bedding "studs" with electrical tape wrapped around it to basically center the stud in the pillar. Well, I noticed that one of the studs was not centered in the pillar, too late, have to wait till it cures before I can take it apart and see what the problem is. Well got it apart and noticed the electrical tape, which did fit with a little room to spare, before I actually put everything together actually bunched up on the rear pillar cutout and caused the whole mess to shift, ever so slightly but still shifted.

I thought to myself, this sure is not going to work so I broke out the trusty dremel with a tungsten carbide bit and got to work- bedding material gone. Next prepped everything up again and got to bedding it the second time last night. Broke it apart today and found out the action did not sit tightly against the pillars like it should have. I have maybe two sheets of paper thick worth (didn't break out the calipers yet, didn't have time) of compound where it should be bare on top of the pillars. My question is: Do I have to rebed it AGAIN, or can I work with it the way it is? Will it affect the accuracy that much with a skin of compund between the pillar and action. Oh BTW, It is a Massaged Stevens 200 action, Tubb Recoil lug, LW 243 ss 28" barrel. Everything fits nicely, aside from the action not directly resting on the pillars.

Advice please?

[tinkerer]

Everything I know about bedding can be found here:

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

I have used this method about 10 times for various Savages and its works everytime when I do my part. ONLY thing I do different is to take it apart at the 4 hour mark to make sure I can get it apart at all. If I have any interference at that point, I stll have a little time to fix it and put it all back together for another 8 hours.

Follow it faithfully. I use clear Johnsons Paste wax as my release.

Good luck. The ahrd part is the prep, inletting, etc.

Larry
Tinkerer

[thunderchief]

I did...

I was actually looking over the article again before I rebedded it. The only problem I had was that the pillars are already in place. They are not coming out. I actually have that page bookmarked on my computer from past projects. For some reason this one just isn't working out- yet... I guess I will do what I know I have to do and start over again. I almost have it down to a science now anyways. I will have to remember that 4 hour thing. I think it will give me the chance to correct any problems that WILL arise. I just hope the Devcon is worth all the hype and trouble. I was pretty happy with the acraglass gel, but I have to bed some heavy hitters soon, and figured I would give it a try. At this rate I will have to order some more before I get to those anyways, geeesh. When its done I will post pics, but getting it done is the hard part. Wish me luck this time...

[thunderchief]

Just got all of the old bedding out- in with the new shortly. Just have to check, double check, and triple check to make sure everything will be perfect this time.

[dcloco]

The bedding left on the pillars means the pillars are not perfect in the stock with how you want the barrelled action mounted, or, you just had some bedding compound ooze.

Use straws if you want to cover the studs you are using. Apply your release agent to the outside of the straws as well.

I use Meguiars Carnuba car wax as a release agent....works VERY well.

[thunderchief]

The straws is a great idea, thanks for that one! I figured out what happened, I guess in the frustration and rush of doing it the second time, I neglected to remove the compound from the bottom of the recoil lug recess. It ended up bedding in nearly the exact spot as the first time. This time I removed ALL of the compund to the bare wood plus a hair. It WILL be perfect- THIS TIME.

Thanks for all the input guys!

[rossman40]

Your using studs or chopped threaded rod? If your using studs are you putting nuts on and tightening them down? If your using a clamp or surgical tubing your wrong.

I use studs made from threaded rod and use the blue painters tape length wise to build up around the stud to center in the pillar,

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk95/rossman40a/saavage02014.jpg

When it goes into the stock I put lamp bushings on the studs and then washers and nuts (stock upside down in pic),

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk95/rossman40a/saavage02016.jpg

The lamp bushings insure you get a square pull on the stud. Tighten about 25in/lb at first and after about 20 minutes tighten about another 10 in/lbs. Make sure when your tightening the nuts make sure the studs do not turn or you will get a "mushroom" of tape. Use some release agent on the tape and studs and inside the pillars.

I use the Devcon aluminum putty. If it is pretty stiff use a hair drier to warm it up a tad and it will flow a bit better. Get it too hot and it sets up in 5 minutes. You want some warmth also, if your shop is not heated and the temperature in the 50s it will take forever for it to set. I will let it set up for a couple of hours and then have a "heat box" (a cardboard box over a heat duct) to keep things warm. If you read the fine print Devcon gets it's max strength when warmed up around 200° during curing. It also takes a week to fully cure. I could tell you more secrets, but then.....

[thunderchief]

Basically using long hex bolts with the heads cut off and a slot cut into it to facilitate a standard screwdriver if needed. Some great ideas with the long threaded rod and lamp bushings. I have used the surgical tubing in the past and have found it cumbersome to use. I usual use the electrical tape with multiple wrappings in both directions and have had pretty good success. Plus the electrical tape is CHEAP.

I checked the inletting with the inletting black and found that the inletting wasn't quite as perfect as I thought. I do have to do a little shaving and try again. Hopefully no problems this time.

[tinkerer]

I must be doing something wrong. I just bolt up the pillars with the bolts I'm using, after liberally coating the bolts and heads with wax.

Once the inletting is right, i.e. the pillars fit as bolted up to the action in the stock without binding, I follow the videos advice from there. Apply Devcon, insert in stock, tape down for 4 hours, remove tape, remove bolts and remove action for the first time to check for interference. This way I KNOW the pillars line up with the action correctly.

But, it seems to work. My bedded actions go in the stock very tightly.

To each his own.

Larry
Tinkerer

[thunderchief]

Great news- no longer a problem. The bedding came out perfect this time. Thanks guys for the help. Note to self- Do not rush bedding jobs, I know it is really exciting but try to slow it down and do it right.

Hasn't been a problem before, but there is always one...

I am hoping the Devcon is worth it. After all this "experience" mixing and molding it has been pretty good but I just hope it is worth its salt. This has to be my most expensive self bedding job to date. Three tries with the Devcon. Not much left over to use for later. But again guys, THANKS!

[jwpark]

Anyone know what the screw/thread size is for Savage actions?

Thanks

Jay

[rossman40]

1/4-28

[rogn]

Shrink tubing is the best to coat setup stock bolts, any good quality wax is a wonderful release agent, Johnsons paste wax is convenient and ideal. If your using a thick paste like Devcon, you may want to leave some small vent/flow channels otherwise you can hydaulic lock your action out of alignment. Worst case boltdowns can split a stock from pressure unvented.