Need some advice

[Aggie04]

I hope this is the right place for this. I have a 111 FCNS in 270WSM. I decided to change the stock and went with a Richards microfit marksman style.

This is the first time that I've done anything like this (I've only owned the gun a year) and have done a lot of research online about stock finishing and pillar bedding (next step).

So I've had a couple of issues with the stock that I need some help/advice on what I need to do next.

Issue number one: The action sits below the top of the stock, i.e., the ejection port is below the top of the stock (if you can see it in the picture below).
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7975/img3071l.jpg
I don't think I could just devcon bed the acton to make the ejection port even with the top of the stock. I think it would leave a very unsightly gap at the tang. So should I just cut both sides of the stock with a table saw to get it even? Suggestions PLEASE!

Issue number two: The tang just sits way down in there (compared to the factory stock).
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/5355/img3084p.jpg
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/8682/img3072ez.jpg
This was really bugging me at first, but it's starting to wear on my. How would you recommend I take some of that wood on top down to get is "more" flush with the tang(especially at that angle)?

Issue number three: the barrel (a magnum) gets kinda lost in all the wood.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1587/img3079ww.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8883/img3077p.jpg
I may want to upgrade to a larger contour barrel eventually, and I do plan on rounding the tip of the stock up. I know I need a dowl and sand paper to widen the barrelchannel to free float it, but to what width (based on my barrel contour, should I widen it too? Does it look bad with all that wood on both sides of the barrel?

Any help and suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Texas rifle season opens up in a little over week and I would like to use the rifle sometime this season. THANK YOU in advance!
Clint

[khuff]

I wouldn't use a table saw, I'd use a planer to remove the wood. I think an electric hand planer would work fine, you can take off a little as a 64th at a time just make sure the stock is level and firmly secured so you can put even pressure on the stock. Harborfreight has them for ~$30 or you could barrow/rent one. I would not be overly concerned about the tang depth as long as it is floating. The bolt handle area may have to be relieved more as you take material off the top.

3/4" EMT conduit is ridged and about right diameter for a varmint contour, spray adhesive (both surfaces) will hold the sand paper in place. Wood or steel broom handles off worn out brooms can be found easily, just compare them to your barrel contour.

You need to buy a 9/16" counter bore (~$25) with a 1/4" pilot (~$5) for your pillars; do a search for Dewitt Tool Co.

You need to keep in mind that you have a 111 and the detachable clip/magazine mechanism must have adequate room to function.

Hope this helps.

[Aggie04]

Thanks for the advice.

Why would I need a counterbore for the pillars? Just curious. I had just planned on drilling out the pillar holes and steel bedding the pillars into place. Is the counterbore for added "grip"?

Another question: The stock came with a recoil pad already installed. It looks good, but I was wondering if you can sand on the pad while sanding on the butt of the stock.

[khuff]

The counterbore with pilot makes sure it's centered (a drill bit can wander) and the counterbore makes sure you don't screw up (splinter) the piliar holes in the stock you just put 10 hours of work in. Either way, you should use good masking tape on the stock to avoid splintering the holes lips (edge).

I am relatively sure Richards Microfit uses "grind to fit" Pachmayr pads on its stocks, so yes.