Please Review my Thoughts

[JoeJoe]

I have a 10FCP-SR in .308 (20" fluted barrel). I'd like to switch out the barrel, so I'd like the experienced folks here to double check my shopping list.

- New barrel
- Wheeler Action Wrench #2
- Barrel wrench for a smooth barrel nut
- Go/No-Go gauges to set headspace
- Anti-seize compound
- Torque wrench (already own)

Two questions now.....am I missing anything? Is it safe to assume my smooth barrel nut is "standard size"?

Thanks!

[Bill2905]

Your list looks fine but here are a couple of ideas to consider;

1. Check out the action wrench sold by Northland Shooters Supply. I don't have experience with the Wheeler wrench but the Northland wrench works well.

2. If you're not on a tight budget, consider ditching the smooth barrel nut and replace it with a new one that has the square notches. Instead of buying the smooth nut wrench, you would get the notched wrench. I removed my smooth nut with a pipe wrench and discarded it.

A small shank barrel nut will measure 7/8" in length front to back. A large shank nut measures 5/8".

[JoeJoe]

Thanks for the input!

[PhilC]

Another vote for NSS action vise, I bought one for my build and it's a quality, made in USA, tool!!

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I have a "Wheeler Action Wrench" that got used one time. Tight enough to brake the nut loose and tight enough that the barrel wouldn't turn without squeaking. :mad:Loosened the wrench, spun the barrel off, put the wrench back in it's box and it hasn't been looked at since. Maybe 15 years? I've only replaced maybe a dozen barrels without using an action wrench so maybe I'am missing something here?;)
Slide the nut wrench up the barrel, place barrel in a padded vice. Get a good grip on the action and smack the nut wrench with a steel hammer. It's the "SHOCK" that brakes the nut loose without pulling you guts out trying to get it to turn.
And replacing the smooth nut with the older style?:cool::cool: Pipe wrench on the smooth nut to brake it loose,THEN, in the trash.:victorious:

[jpdown]

+1. Unless you plan on doing a lot of barrel swapping, I don’t see the need for an action wrench. A padded bench vice will hold the action and recoil lug while you remove or tighten the barrel nut. I prefer the smooth barrel nut and the Wheeler smooth nut wrench has usually worked fine. A few tough nuts required careful use of a pipe wrench.

[mnbogboy2]

+1. Unless you plan on doing a lot of barrel swapping, I don’t see the need for an action wrench. A padded bench vice will hold the action and recoil lug while you remove or tighten the barrel nut. I prefer the smooth barrel nut and the Wheeler smooth nut wrench has usually worked fine. A few tough nuts required careful use of a pipe wrench.
I also agree it's a good plan except my recommendation to anyone attempting their first Savage rebarrel to buy the action wrench. Some barrel nuts can be real tough and a bench vise improperly used can and has ruined actions.
The action wrench can always be resold but there is a good chance the "barrelnut bug" will be caught and the OP will be using that action wrench all the time.

[Dave Hoback]

Get the Action wrench. Anything worth doing, is worth doing right! You can EASILY resell the wrench if you plan to never use it again. Personally, I love my small collection of Gunsmithing tools & would not part with any. The last 1911 I built was in 2014/2015, and I have NO plans to build another. But I know the specialty tools needed are in my work room, waiting patiently.

[PhilC]

Get the Action wrench. Anything worth doing, is worth doing right! You can EASILY resell the wrench if you plan to never use it again.
Exactly!

[Nor Cal Mikie]

"You can EASILY resell the wrench if you plan to never use it again".
What you'll end up doing is just about giving it away because of the cost of shipping, Those suckers are heavy. That's why mine is still under the bench.

[RustyShackle]

I just happen to have one that I’m going to be parting ways with. I think it’s the wheeler IIRC. Has the cutout for the recoil lug. I’d have to look.

[Slowpoke Slim]

My thought would be to pass on getting a No Go Gauge. Not needed at all. The Go Gauge is all you need. I also seriously doubt you'll ever need the anti-seeze compound. I would get the action wrench. They're really not that expensive, and it sure beats the pain, anguish, embarrassment, and hassle of twisting an action.