New style bbl nut

[Dave Hoback]

Looks like a non solution to a non problem....

I would have to agree. Kinda like several companies replacing the direct impingement gas system with the gas piston system on the AR15! An answer to a question NOBODY asked!

But if a person prefers the look of this other barrel nut, more power to ‘em!

[david12601]

6405640664076408

[cowboybart]

The only problem it solved was one of the ones I am having. I have a 1.2" bull barrel taken from a 700 action. I threaded it for a Savage and installed it. Problem is, I can't get a normal wrench over and down the barrel, so the nut is only hand tight with a strap wrench. I was gonna cut 60% of my nut wrench away, so I could slide it over, but this nut solves the problem.

David; the joke you are missing is that torque is measured in foot pounds or newton meters, not psi.
Sorry I ruined that for ya Phil :-)

[Robinhood]

Bart, The Bugholes bugnut was another option to work in your situation. $40.00 US. I think the one you have may look better but.....

https://www.bugholes.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/BUGNUT3.jpg
https://www.bugholes.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/BUGNUT4.jpg

[david12601]

Yeah I should have known better I have so much going on right now shooting,rebuilding race car engine and working on one of my airplanes......I know cold weather is coming trying to do as much as I can.........my Christmas wish is to have more hours in a day.........

[cowboybart]

Bart, The Bugholes bugnut was another option to work in your situation. $40.00 US. I think the one you have may look better but.....

https://www.bugholes.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/BUGNUT3.jpg
https://www.bugholes.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/BUGNUT4.jpg

I like this!


This is what I'm up against. 1.25 OD barrel, 1.35" OD nut and receiver

I can't post a pic

[Robinhood]

After you told me what you were doing I figured it out. I hope you got it working for you.

[tobnpr]

I have a 1.2" bull barrel taken from a 700 action. I threaded it for a Savage and installed it. Problem is, I can't get a normal wrench over and down the barrel, so the nut is only hand tight with a strap wrench. I was gonna cut 60% of my nut wrench away, so I could slide it over, but this nut solves the problem.


This is what the BugNut is used for, but most commonly for appropriately sized prefits or guys that need an easier switch-barrel in the field. It was designed to solve the max diameter "problem" for those that wanted a bull barrel contour in a prefit.
Since you needed to cut off the tenon of the 700 barrel anyway, why not just go with a shouldered barrel and forget about a nut altogether?

[Dave Hoback]

This is what the BugNut is used for, but most commonly for appropriately sized prefits or guys that need an easier switch-barrel in the field. It was designed to solve the max diameter "problem" for those that wanted a bull barrel contour in a prefit.
Since you needed to cut off the tenon of the 700 barrel anyway, why not just go with a shouldered barrel and forget about a nut altogether?

Because your 2nd proposal requires either a Gunsmith or the know how, and some quite a bit of tooling expense for headspacing.

[tobnpr]

Because your 2nd proposal requires either a Gunsmith or the know how, and some quite a bit of tooling expense for headspacing.

Ummm...
OP said "I threaded it for a Savage and installed it".

He obviously has the "know how" and the lathe, he said he does his own barrel work. Easier to just shoulder the barrel IMO, instead of needing to conform to dimensions specific to a nutted barrel, unless a switch barrel is needed in the field.

[Robinhood]

That was my take away tobnpr. Sounded like he has the ability to machine. So why not buy a drop of 1.250" 416 hex stock. Turn the OD to 1.350". bore it to min thread dimensions thread it and counter bore to barrel diameter plus ten and then be done.

[cowboybart]

I'm an amature machinist. I can do outside threads, but have trouble doing inside threads. I originally threaded the barrel so I could sell it. After trying to sell it for 2 years, I figured I'd keep it. I deep chambered it in 6 PPC and will face the breech to get the headspace right. It will still have a barrel nut as I can't shorten it anymore w/o getting into the flutes.

[Robinhood]

To make good ID threads on a manual machine I make a gauge that is class 3 measured by wires. Always sanding down the crest of the threads to bring it back to the nominal minus .003" -.005". In the case of Savage threads minus .010". Make sure your nut goes on. Should be a very good fit.

When you cut ID threads you go about 90-95% of the finish(fish) thread depth. On 20 TPI there is no need to use the compound. Always sand the burr of of the crest or use the 16ER 20(I think for boring bars) threading tools. If you are really comfortable with your lathe and once you get the crest clean of burs. Go .001 -002 at a time until the gauge goes in snug. Cleaning the thread ID after every pass with scothchbright to make sure there are no raised burs. Make a few more passes on zero and try again. If need be, feed in .0005" until it is right. To get a good fit you need to be sure to eliminate burs pushed up by carbide tooling.

[tobnpr]

Be sure to sneak up easy when you get close. The reason they're more challenging is that just like boring you get tool flex, and on smaller manual machines the relative lack of rigidity stacks on as well.

If you don't have DRO's, consider adding them, esp if you have older iron like I do. Wear on leadscrews becomes irrelevant and you get exactly what you see on the display.

Like any other op, practice it and learn what your machine and tooling will do/will not do. Carbide and HSS will require different approaches.