Head space gauges

[azguy]

Probable you are right, maybe we don't even need a go gauge, just hammer the bolt closed after a few rounds should be fine. Or if we are that unprecision may be best to hire a gunsmith.

[Blackthorn]

I went to smith school in the late 80’s. The instructors I learned from used the tape method. I have found that Scotch Brand tape measures .002 where as generic or off brands tend to be slightly off. On my target builds I use one piece of tape. On hunting rifles I use two thickness’ of tape as factory ammo may be used.
My procedure is pretty short and sweet. I disassemble the bolt and leave just the firing pin assembly inserted so the bolt retention pin doesn’t slide out and jam the action (no cocking piece installed). I remove extractor and ejector from the bolt head. This allows me a better feel when I am setting headspace.
My barrel vice is a Bald Eagle. I use two pieces of neoprene to hold the barrel in place. I run the closed bolt action down onto the go gauge without tape until the action tightens on the gauge. The bolt will not open at this point so I back the action off until the action opens with a very slight resistance. At that point I hand tight the nut against the recoil lug. I then apply the appropriate number of tape strips on the go gauge and reinsert into chamber. When I close the bolt at this point it should either not close or turn slightly and stop (10-15 degrees). Don’t use too much force or you can compress the tape and get a false reading. This is when I use the nut wrench and tighten the nut securely with arm force. I check the no-go setting and if I am satisfied that it has not changed or changed slightly ( I allow for the bolt to be 90 degrees to the action as my max movement). I then take my deadblow hammer and give a soft whack to the wrench. This snugs the nut firmly. Check the gauge again. Satisfied I then rap the wrench twice hard with the deadblow hammer. Check the gauge again. If no movement is detected your good to go.
I have rebarreled numerous Savage rifles with this method and never had an issue. If you ask my clients they will tell you I build tack drivers. My current FTR rifle will shoot 3/8” groups without fail.
If buying a no-go gauge makes you sleep better at night then by all means buy one. There are many methods to get to the same point I choose to use the one I was taught by people I respect in the trade.

[HandgunHTR]

I use both, but then again, I don't buy them, I rent them for $7 plus shipping. That way, I don't have to worry and I am not tempted to buy more barrels. ;)

[mudpig]

safety is not really a concern, as has been stated before. How many rimmed and belted cartridges blow the shoulder forward without mishap? I've fireformed wildcats that blow the shoulder forward .200 without anything blowing up in my face. I have split some cases that I forgot to anneal before fireforming, but never a catastrophic failure of any kind.

[PaddyD]

who rents them to you?

[HandgunHTR]

who rents them to you?

www.reamerrentals.com

www.4drentals.com

[DesertDug]

www.reamerrentals.com (http://www.reamerrentals.com)

www.4drentals.com (http://www.4drentals.com)

This seems like a great way to go for a hobbyist

[blvedere]

Wrong post

[dolomite_supafly]

I use brass sized on my equipment to set head space in my guns. It keeps the brass from growing as much so it helps the brass last longer. I snug it down so the head space is zero. Tight head space is not going to be as dangerous as head space that is too loose.

I used a hole punch to punch out little circles that I use as a no go as well as to set clearance if I want some clearance. Resume paper is ~.005", standard paper is like .003", Shotgun News is like .002" and typical aluminum foil is .001". I set my head space then use the different thicknesses to check actual clearance. I use the resume paper as the no go gauge.

If you don't reload you can do the same thing with factory ammunition but remove the bullet and powder first to be safe.