Savage 10T-SR 6mm Creedmoor Firing Pin

[smilintodd]

Hey guys, I goofed up when taking my bolt apart to clean. I didn't know the proper way to disassemble and tried "punching" out the cross pin and bent the firing pin. Anyway, now that I have it apart, I'm waiting on Midway to get one in stock and reassemble.

I've been reading on the proper procedure to set the firing pin depth, but how to I know how far the set the rear silver piece? Unfortunately I didn't measure the overall length before I took it apart.

EDIT, well I guess I can't figure how to insert an image, but the "silver piece I'm talking about is the rear pin the protrudes from the back of the bolt when the bolt is "cocked".

[Robinhood]

Before you reassemble the bolt or firing pin, if you have a vice with soft jaws set the protrusion now.

Grip the firing pin lightly with the tip of the firing pin up. Grab it on the flat at the opposite end.

Start with your spring stop and lock ring (the smaller in OD of the two lock rings) and screw it down trying your bolt head to see if the pin protrudes. Work that until you get .035"-.045". Lift the locking ring up to lock it in place and loosen the jaws and rotate so the lock ring does not come out of its slots.

Drop the spring on keeping some force applied on the spring to keep the lock ring and spring stop in place.

Prepare to compress the spring. You will need a pair of side cutters or similar. Get a sacrificial piece of wood to go between the the tip of the firing pin and the table. ***Wear something for eye safety***.

Get the cocking piece (the part that extends out the rear of the Bolt) nearby and the locking ring between your fingers with the side cutters in the other hand. Carefully place the side cutter about 3/4ths up or higher from the bottom of the spring making sure that the jaws will match up to the flats on the pin. This will keep the threads from getting buggered up if you squeeze to hard.

***Keeping your face out of the line of fire*** slowly compress the spring. Making sure you line up the flat on the ring to the flat on the pin make this go easier than if you do not. As soon as the back end of the firing pin protrudes the spring enough, slide the lock ring over it and then start the threads on the cocking piece.

Screw the cocking piece down around 3/16". Slide the pin down into the bolt body. See if the hole is close to the bottom of the cocking ramp. Adjust until this is true. Remove the firing pin assembly.

Slide the cocking piece sleeve over the cocking piece and line up the holes. Slide the cocking piece pin into the holes. Push the sleeve down and rotate the sleeve until the anti rotation slots fit together. Now your sleeve is aligned correctly

Pull back on the cocking piece sleeve and remove the cocking pin and sleeve.

Go back and check your protrusion at this time. >.035" < .045".

Assemble the bolt head, wavy spring and front baffle onto the bolt with the extractor on the same side as the cocking ramp. Make sure the front baffle is oriented correctly and the spring is between the baffle and the bolt body. Install the cross pin to hold it all together. As you do this it helps to position the through hole to be in line with the axis of the firing pin. A quick look through the rear of the bolt will confirm.

Slide the firing pin in with the cocking piece hole aligned with the bottom of the ramp. Slide the cocking piece sleeve into the rear of the bolt until the round hole is aligned with the hole in the cocking piece. Insert the cocking piece pin.

Before you put the bolt assembly screw back on rock the cocking pin back and forth. It should do so with little linear movement up the ramp. If their is no clearance between this pin and the bottom of the cocking ramp your pin will bottom out and it will reduce your firing pin protrusion. It is better to have too much space than too little.

Slide your rear baffle onto the bolt, put your bolt handle on. Add a little E/P grease or other heavy lubricant to the bottom of the BAS. Make sure the cocking pin is at the bottom of the ramp. Start threading the BAS into the back of the bolt body.

After two turns stop. Push the cocking pin up the ramp to the cocked position. Continue to tighten the BAS until it is torqued, make sure you handle and baffle are in the correct position as you go.Check function and adjust as needed.

I cant be held responsible for grammatical or spelling errors. Im not much of a proof reader. I hope this helps and let me know if I missed something.

[smilintodd]

this is a great write up, as soon as I can get a new firing pin, I will get it reassembled.....Thanks!!!

[smilintodd]

One other question with this, is it possible to convert this style of bolt/firing pin to the other style that doesn't have the "cocked" indicator in the rear of the bolt?

[Robinhood]

You would need a cocking piece and a new BAS. The old BAS would work but it would allow a entry for dirt.

[smilintodd]

Ya it sure would, but I'd be curious if I bought this:

http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts/savage-short-action-firing-pin-assembly-10-11-12-14-16

Along with getting the bolt lift kit(so the rear BAS is closed), would that be all I need?

[Dave Hoback]

Yes, but as Robin said, you still need the cocking piece & sleeve and new BAS.

[Robinhood]

That would work but your buying more than you need. The cocking piece sleeve that you have will work on your old bolt with a new cocking piece or with the new firing pin assembly. Also, you either need to replace your BAS or plug the old one.

[smilintodd]

Ok, so now I'm a bit confused....what exactly is the "cocking piece"? Is it pictured in this part?
http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts...10-11-12-14-16 (http://www.gunshack.com/savage-parts/savage-short-action-firing-pin-assembly-10-11-12-14-16)

[Dave Hoback]

Yes, the cocking piece is the part on the back with a hole through it. But you will need this part. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1348930O I *believe* you can reuse your old cocking piece pin. And like Robin said, either plug yours or bye a new BAS

[smilintodd]

awesome, thanks guys. I've got it ordered and we'll see if I can get it back together. The other thing I need to do with it is have the throat opened up a bit on the barrel. Its a 10T-SR in 6mm creedmoor and from what I've read, the throats are notoriously know for being short. Inserting a loaded round will push the bullet further into the case...by almost 0.080".

[Robinhood]

I may be mistaken but I believe the cocking piece sleeve is a standard issue piece. Common on both types of cocking pieces.