Opening up barrel channel

[Bearlodge10]

I have done a barrel swap (30-06 to 338-06) on a model 111. The magnum contour of the new barrel is a bit too heavy and has created contact on several places with the stock. My thought is to use some wooden dowels and sand paper to open this channel. However, I wanted to see if there were any other suggestions before doing so. Anything that I should be careful of in this process?

[Donnie]

What material is the stock? For wood or laminate, the dowel with sand paper works fine. Even in my HS Precision composite stock, PVC dowel with sandpaper made quick work of opening the barrel channel. Id be careful if it is a plastic "Tupperware" stock and making it more flimsy.

[celltech]

I have even wrapped sandpaper around a spare barrel to open a channel before...gave it a nice fit.

[Bearlodge10]

It is tupperware. Celltech, I hadn't thought about using the spare barrel.

[charlie b]

Done it a few times, on my Axis and other brand rifles. I like to make the final passes with the action in the stock. I carefully apply masking tape to the barrel, put it in stock, and then sand the channel.

[Dave Hoback]

One thing not said was make certain you use something of equal or slightly greater diameter to that of the barrel. If your old barrel is thinner profile it would not be efficient. Best option is using the barrel BEFORE installing in the action. Wrap it with blue tape and sandpaper. This gives the most perfect profile match to float the barrel.

[GaCop]

You can open up the barrel channel in a Tupperware stock. I've done it a number of times. I stiffen the forearm with Devcon Steel Putty, works great for sporter applications.

[big honkin jeep]

I bought a heavy fluted barrel off of 1 of the original 10BAs in .308 a few years back. I didn't want to spend the cash on replacing the original synthetic so I thought it through and tried something different. I opened the barrel channel by boiling the forend of a synthetic stock in a propane turkey fryer pot for about 20 minutes and then forcing a 1" wooden dowel (I used a big broom handle) into the barrel channel from the back of the action cutout all the way down the channel (with work gloves on cause it's hot) and then securing it in place with duct tape. When it cools it retains the new contour and I didn't have to weaken it because I only removed minimal material at the very tip. It has held this shape now for years even when getting the rifle hotter than I probably should.
More than one way to skin a cat

[GaCop]

For a wooden stock where I needed to open up the barrel channel to take a varmint weight barrel, I've used different diameter sanding drums chucked into a drill bit extension in my drill. Makes for fast work.