12fv build w/ pics

[DesertDug]

I was surprised with the results. Shooting prone out of the back of the pick up with my legs bent up into the air to fit, so the front rest was not on the tailgate and the bed liner not giving a smooth table and all. Also could only see the top half of the target due to tail over grown field I was shooting in. Target frame was a wire frame advertising type and was being effected by the wind gusts. This was why I decided to shoot the 10 and 15 round groups. Was having trouble keeping my set up consistent and was continually adjusting rests as well as check wield and the check rest became sweaty due to high humidity i was shooting in, this was east Texas after all.

[CFJunkie]

Those conditions make your results even more impressive.
That has to build your confidence for hunting with that set up.

[DesertDug]

Ok back to the build. Busted my second nut tonight :confused:
Barrel came in. Weights in at 4.0 lbs. 3/4 lbs lighter then the savage barrel.:cool:
Barrel spun with one wack with the dead hammer.
Barrel nut seems not to want to un thread from the barrel. Probably just needs to be soaked.
https://i.postimg.cc/mkw2kv09/IMG-1861.jpg (https://postimg.cc/30kHbcrr)

is this what others say is the gritty factory findings? My only other one was an old flat top long action that did not look as bad.

https://i.postimg.cc/KYFqrCVj/IMG-1862.jpg (https://postimg.cc/SnTfm1mb)

The action face tool marks and proud area seem visible.

My last build I wet sanded in a circler motion this surface since I do not have a leath to true this face. Please comment if you agree or have opinion on this approach.
https://i.postimg.cc/Wpr5CNvz/IMG-1864.jpg (https://postimg.cc/4nfvhTnR)

Also noticed when I removed the scoope mount the pattern on the receiver that seems to suggest that it would benefit from bedding it to the action. Am I reading this correctly?

https://i.postimg.cc/8sd64XJB/IMG-1859.jpg (https://postimg.cc/8sd64XJB) https://i.postimg.cc/21tbyPMm/IMG-1860.jpg (https://postimg.cc/21tbyPMm)

Machined lug and nut should be here some time this week and I can get'er all back together again and start load development.

[Dave Hoback]

I don’t currently have a lathe either Dug. So I did similar to what you are talking about. “Poor Mans” receiver face truing. What I did was use a piece of glass with 1000gr wet/dry sandpaper glued(spray contact glue). Then placed the receiver on the the paper Breech Face down, and move the receiver in a figure eight pattern. Used a spray bottle of soapy water to spray paper, and being extremely mindful to keep the receiver face completely flat, and not impart pressure more to one side. Sounds tricky, but it’s actually pretty simple. Last thing you can do is when you get the barrel, recoil lug & nut...use some rubbing compound. Put it all together with compound between the lug and receiver face. Tighten the nut for recoil lug to make contact with receiver face and rotate lug back & forth some. This will mate the two surfaces further. I was able to do this because the PTG recoil lug did not come with the locating pin. I installed that myself.

As for the scope mount, sure you can bed it. Or you can try the same trick with rubbing compound. I’ve used the rubbing compound trick on many, many different things! NOT just for seating valves in engines!(but yes.. Did that to!)

[DesertDug]

I have a knife rubbing compound used on leather for stropping, will this work.
I will try your glass technique, how easy is it to bugger up?

[Dave Hoback]

I have a knife rubbing compound used on leather for stropping, will this work.
I will try your glass technique, how easy is it to bugger up?

Can only really do damage if you use more coarse sandpaper and/or dare not careful. Using 1000gr is slow. Think of it as a marathon, not a sprint! In fact, don’t think of it as a race at all! More like a lazy Sunday afternoon....and Monday is a HOLIDAY!! What you have for stropping is probably Rouge. That is a little on the light side. Any auto parts store will sell valve lapping compound. Comes in a little tube. And honestly, it is a bit extreme. The sandpaper is really the main thing. All you are trying to do is eliminate the high/low spots.

[DesertDug]

Copy that, thanks for the additional information., I can do holidays.

[Dave Hoback]

Yess’ir... I do keep in mind it’s easy for me now. I’m disabled so “Time” is one thing I have a surplus of. It has given me reflection to in the discipline of patience. I used to treat everything as a race...a sprint! I’ve learned that a focused & deliberate hand, given ample time, can do some pretty cool things indeed.


Im looking forward to your finished work Doug. I think you are going are going to be quite pleased with the end result. It pleases me to see another DIY’er doing what I also love.

Doug, I started little gun projects over two decades ago. Taught myself everything through reading & research. Today I’m an extremely competent gunsmith & machinist. But not as a profession. Never has been for money, but for the love of the exercise itself.

[PhilC]

Good stuff here. Am retired USAF and post career now retired body/paint tech. Here's a tip on the wet sandpaper route, start at 600, progress to 800, then 1000 (JMHO 800 would be plenty good as final). Use the previous grit scratch mark as a "guide coat" when moving to next grade finer paper. Also, soak the paper for at least 15mins prior to use to allow the backing to become fully saturated ensuring smooth cut. Advice to use soap is spot on, I use a few drops of liquid dish soap (Dawn works great) in my bucket anytime I'm wet sanding.

Rubbing compound meant for paint really won't do much for steel and I agree valve lapping compound might be a bit much. Brownell's has 600 & 800gr lapping compounds, Wheeler's has 600gr (220 & 320 too), and maybe even JB paste would work, I don't know, but maybe one of them would be better for lapping barrel/lug/receiver face.

[DesertDug]

Picked up some 1000 grit and action face polished to mirror in not much time. First the dirt cleaned up, then all the tooling markings became real clear. A little more soap water and light elbow grease, the mirror came out.
https://i.postimg.cc/j5KQHM0H/IMG-1865.jpg (https://postimg.cc/t1SxytgJ)

my nut and lug from e arther brown came in and I am disappointed about the nut. It looks like it is just like the stock one. . Only 2.9 grains difference in weight. What's the best way to get in touch with sharpshooter to get one on express...

Maybe he will see my post....

https://i.postimg.cc/cLctw0hJ/IMG-1867.jpg (https://postimg.cc/MnvG8khk)
Stock left, for build on right


here is a shoot of the barrels side by side. I was pleased with the 3/4 pound reduction. I mocked it up and the balance point without scoppe mount seems to be right in front of the chamber.
https://i.postimg.cc/1tbr2sLQ/IMG-1868.jpg (https://postimg.cc/0MdSJRkW)

[DesertDug]

Tell me if I am doing anything stupid.

Looking over the nut, got me thinking, why would I not run the nut over the 1000 grit as well?

I would be removing the finish.which triggered, hummm, I will be leaving the action face raw steel. Is this gonna be a problem?

https://i.postimg.cc/ZRJ7PKZf/IMG-1869.jpg (https://postimg.cc/2qX7rY1v)

So what do you think?

[BB68]

does not matter

[DesertDug]

does not matter

what does not matter? Leaving to Steel raw?

[PhilC]

Use a bluing pen on the bare steel, I'd do the same on the action too. I sent an order form (what Fred recommended I do to order a single shot ramp) to SSS a couple weeks ago for one of his barrel lugs but haven't heard back. Am not in a big hurry, so will wait a little longer, if no response when I decide on barrel for my future build (10FP in 22 Creedmoor) I'll get the .250" PT&G parallel ground lug and re-bed the action.

[Dave Hoback]

Doug, great job on the breech face my fiend! I know the nut “looks” like the stock one, but that IS a machined barrel nut. The tolerances are going to be better than stock. You “can” smooth the face of the barrel nut as well, if you wish, but it’s not as crucial as the breech face. Go to your nearest gun and grab sone cold bluing, or a bluing pen as instructed. Coming along nicely brother!

[DesertDug]

I should blueing pen required. If I choose not to ble what are the consequences?

[Dave Hoback]

I should blueing pen required. If I choose not to ble what are the consequences?

Just could develop some surface rust over time. But if you keep your stuff super clean like most builders, you shouldn’t really have any rust problems. Some of my guns have a few bare metal spots from time time. And never had any appreciable rust! Another thing you can do it you are worried and can’t get cold blue, just pickle the exposed metal surface to vinegar, or smear some yellow mustard on it to induce a patina. But I wouldn’t worry.

[DesertDug]

Researching cold blueing and bedding DNZ one piece scope mounts.

[DesertDug]

Got to Academy and picked up some Birchwood Super Blue. Easy enough. Clean prep. metal, wipe down, wash and repeat.
https://i.postimg.cc/hGjcbNMk/IMG-1871.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cvVpd9ph)

now on to setting the headspace tomorrow when the blueing is dry.

Regarding bedding the scope rail, I am seeing that most only bed the rear section. What do you all around here think regarding bedding scoope rails.

[CFJunkie]

DesertDug,

Glad to see you solved your blueing problem.

As for bedding scope rails, I personally have never experienced the need to do that.
I've had to torque the screws holding the rails and use Loc-tite on the screws to keep the screws from backing out under recoil but I have never had the need to bed the rails themselves.
I guess if the action surface or the rails themselves are not smooth enough, it might be a solution.
Personally, I would smooth the mating surfaces and then mount the rails. Now that you have the 'Super Blue', you should be able to cover any smoothing marks.
You're the only one who can tell if the rail mount will really need to be bedded.