Alternative lightweight bolt handles?

[Newtosavage]

I've seen plenty of "tactical" bolt handle options for the Savage 10/110 series, but I don't recall seeing any lightweight alternatives. Does anyone know of any? I don't mind the stock bolt handle except that the raised "checkering" is IMO rougher than it needs to be, if it's even needed at all.

I was thinking of something in line with my Tikka bolt handle, with the drilled out hollow area to save weight.

If there isn't anything out there available, then has anyone modified their own to smooth it out and lighten it up?

Thanks

[DesertDug]

saw this one today while looking through e-bay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-model-10-12-threaded-handle/233134149157?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D82b84 253ba664798a70bed0a4aad31a5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D 5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323699377760%26itm%3D233134149 157&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A25b8c48b-3473-11e9-9ab7-74dbd18046fd%7Cparentrq%3A06fd993d1690aa47264e6d1b ffe0ef10%7Ciid%3A1

I thought, this should be good for a light weight build.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ieYAAOSwotZcZnb5/s-l1600.jpg

[LoneWolf]

Of all the places to save weight, I don't get why people try to do it in the bolt handle... A bolt handle needs to be rigid to ensure you can open the bolt regardless of the situation. Get a stuck case on a rainy day one time and snap that sucker off.... All to save 1-2oz of weight....

[Newtosavage]

Of all the places to save weight, I don't get why people try to do it in the bolt handle... A bolt handle needs to be rigid to ensure you can open the bolt regardless of the situation. Get a stuck case on a rainy day one time and snap that sucker off.... All to save 1-2oz of weight....

I don't see how a hollow bolt knob will create that problem. Tikka has been doing this for years with no issues, and this kind of attention to detail is a big reason those rifles are so popular. It's not worth it to a lot of folks, but a lot of folks don't pack rifles into the places I do either (which is why I go to those places. ;) )

[Newtosavage]

saw this one today while looking through e-bay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-model-10-12-threaded-handle/233134149157?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.S EED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D82b84 253ba664798a70bed0a4aad31a5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D 5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323699377760%26itm%3D233134149 157&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A25b8c48b-3473-11e9-9ab7-74dbd18046fd%7Cparentrq%3A06fd993d1690aa47264e6d1b ffe0ef10%7Ciid%3A1

I thought, this should be good for a light weight build.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ieYAAOSwotZcZnb5/s-l1600.jpg

That's a good design, but way too large for a hunting rifle IMO. That sucker would get snagged on all kinds of stuff and never make it down the rifle scabbard on my Eberlestock pack.

[celltech]

You could cut your heavy steel knob off, thread it, and put on a lightweight aluminum knob.

[J.Baker]

Look around for older 110 bolt handles from the 60's and 70's. Some had a small round ball with a narrow band or knurling around it. The only problem with these is that most of them I've come across are for the earlier (1958-1965) guns where the "ears" or "tabs" on the back of the bolt body were 90-degrees off from what they are on the 1966 and newer guns with the current style bolt assembly.

5776

Another style (my favorite) is shaped similar to a Hersey's Kiss. Not sure exactly when these were in production, but I'm guessing they weren't used for to many years because you don't see them often. Here's a few pic's of one I mocked up on my LH Axis just to see how it would feel and if it would clear the scope as I may modify my current Axis bolt handle to mimic this one.

5773 5774

5775

[J.Baker]

There's also this titanium option if you're a righty, though it's a little long and the knob's too bulky for my tastes - at least for a hunting rifle.

http://lumleyarms.us/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75

[Newtosavage]

You could cut your heavy steel knob off, thread it, and put on a lightweight aluminum knob.

If I already had the tap and die, I would. That's not a bad idea at all.

[Newtosavage]

There's also this titanium option if you're a righty, though it's a little long and the knob's too bulky for my tastes - at least for a hunting rifle.

http://lumleyarms.us/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75

Thanks for that. I really like that handle but for the oversized knob. I may contact them and see if they have a smaller knob option. That would be sweet.

[sharpshooter]

Even if you cut the knob and replace with aluminum, you'll only save 1/2 oz.

[Robinhood]

They say it is one piece. However there is a way to easily adapt one of their carbon fiber nobs if you have a mill and a lathe.

[Texas10]

Here are some options:https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage-Bolt-Handles/

[Newtosavage]

Here are some options:https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage-Bolt-Handles/
Thanks for the link. That's very useful info!

[South Prairie jim]

Personally I went the opposite direction.

i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
then lightly debur the cocking ramp
third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

[Robinhood]

what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063

third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.

Jam up Smith.

[J.Baker]

Personally I went the opposite direction.

i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
then lightly debur the cocking ramp
third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

Savage's don't generally have a primary extraction issue unless you were unlucky enough to get one of the bad bolt handles from a batch several years ago where Savage ground down/polished out a casting flaw on the PE ramp and took too much off resulting in no PE. What they do have is a timing issue which is what the bolt lift kit, sear mods and cocking ramp mods all address.

[sharpshooter]

Personally I went the opposite direction.

i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
then lightly debur the cocking ramp
third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

That whole description is a recipe for disaster....

[South Prairie jim]

Nope

[South Prairie jim]

I didn’t have a primary extraction issue nor did we alter the rear baffle.