Model 10 FCP-SR build thread

[Frontier Gear]

Just remember to leave enough room to get your bolt out and back in. I have also seen here non adjustable cheek risers get in the way of cleaning rods.

I've seen the same thing. It's a bummer for guys with high cheek bones. Makes cleaning a pain and is one of the reasons I don't like the systems that require you to remove the recoil pad in order to remove the cheek riser. At least the "click" adjustable ones get the cheek riser back in the same location each time.

[big honkin jeep]

I watched a Savage Model 10 review awhile ago on YouTube that indicated that the factory scope rail came loose after a few hundred rounds. They pulled off the freshly-zeroed scope and found oil in the tapped mounting holes.

I decided to have a look today. The rail mounting screws are Torx T-10. The rear two holes were dry, but the front two were dripping with oil. The frontmost hole was filled to the brim.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/00c8281c2060b3c67649c6b4f3feebb0.jpg

I cleaned it up as best I could and soaked the oil up from the holes. I reinstalled each one with a little blue Loctite. The only weird part is that the frontmost screw didn’t thread in as far as the others, and hit a positive stop. Is that part of the rail design? Does that screw sit higher? Now that I’ve installed them with Loctite, I don’t want to pull them back out if I don’t have to.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190227/9abdbc27f27b725ef6f873ce5d5bd23d.jpg

I’m also rethinking my cheek riser. I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just build up the comb with foam instead.

Is it hard to operate the bolt now? You need to make sure the short screwgoes in the right hole. It's entirely possible for them to go down all the way through the action and bind on the bolt.

[DeltaNu1142]

When I threw all of the screws in a pile, they were all the same length. I checked the holes before reinstalling to see if they went through, and they didn't appear to. I ran into what you're describing on a 10/22 once.

EDIT: I didn’t answer your question; yes, the bolt operates just fine.

[Davo308]

Awesome build along. Can't wait to see where this goes. Best of luck.

One question - how much louder will the muzzle brake make this gun? I've never seen nor heard a side by side set. Heck, I've never even heard a gun with one attached.

David

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

It will be noticeably louder, though its louder to bystanders to the sides than to the shooter.

[DeltaNu1142]

I wanted to verify the scope rail screws weren’t wrong, so I took them out and scrubbed off the Loctite. The screws are all the same length. The rear two holes go straight through the action to the bolt, but the screws aren’t anywhere long enough to interfere with it. The frontmost hole is not as deep as the 2nd from the front; the chamfering in the scope rail for the front hole is higher, and that stops the screw from bottoming out in the action.

In short, it doesn’t matter which screw goes where.

[DeltaNu1142]

Good news - I sold my Saiga, so I’m going scope shopping tonight. I have my eye on a Sig Sauer Tango4 6-24x50 with the MOA Dev-L reticle. I looked through one at a few hundred yards last week and really liked it. I was also looking at a comparatively Vortex Viper. The Vortex turrets are better, but the Sig SBT is a nice option and I think I like the Sig FFP reticle better.

I need to find out what rings will work on a 20 MOA rail with that scope. It’s got a 30mm barrel.

Also, I put together my cheek riser template. It didn’t print exactly to size, but it’s close enough that it’s probably not worth messing with any longer. You can view and download it here (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DbEUJ_gyee7baIM9P-SQfd9ZBrM6QxBM/view?usp=drivesdk).

[DeltaNu1142]

Two updates: I received my muzzle brake from Ross Schuler. It’s a really nice piece, matched precisely to the barrel diameter:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190304/c4863e26a40bbdf1750c3785aef9c2c2.jpg

I also put on a stock pack. I went with a combination of multicam and genuine suede. I’m going to update the other thread I started with the details about how helpful Bill from www.tacticalsharpshooter.com was in selecting this pack.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190304/9869e612cd43fbef87d5362f511ea8ad.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190304/3ae452c4ed09dfb3c9c74d660374939e.jpg

[DeltaNu1142]

I ended up going with a Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 Gen II scope with the EBR-2C MOA reticle. There was a deal on one on eBay I couldn’t pass up. I should get it next week when I come back into town. I think the only thing that will be holding up mounting is the arrival of my lapping kit.

[J.Baker]

Nice build thread you have going here. Just what we like to see! :thumb:

[tufrthnails]

Looking good man.

[big honkin jeep]

Coming along nicely,
but ouch,
I sure hope you don't later regret selling a Saiga for glass.

You're probably going to want to check out a lot of "how to" on making and installing the cheekpiece if you still decide go that route or go that route eventually.
I watched a bunch of videos and read a lot of articles before I started cutting drilling etc. I think I may have learned more about what not to do than what to do. There are a lot of "yahoos" making videos LOL.
I do find the adjustable Kydex rests to be much more stable than stock packs.
Keep up the good work.

[DeltaNu1142]

Coming along nicely,
but ouch,
I sure hope you don't later regret selling a Saiga for glass.
I don't think I will. This one had never been shot, but I've played around with a few. They're a lot of fun, and a great way to take care of that pesky, "I've got too many shells laying around," problem. But a Saiga falls pretty far down my list of firearms I want to own. A 600+ yard rifle is many spots above that.

You're probably going to want to check out a lot of "how to" on making and installing the cheekpiece if you still decide go that route or go that route eventually.
I watched a bunch of videos and read a lot of articles before I started cutting drilling etc. I think I may have learned more about what not to do than what to do. There are a lot of "yahoos" making videos LOL.
I do find the adjustable Kydex rests to be much more stable than stock packs.
Thanks, I've been earning my YouTube degree in bolt action rifle modification. I'm happy with the template I ended up with, I think the hardware will work, and I'm fairly handy with a drill. It should work out OK.

[DeltaNu1142]

I received my scope last night, finally. It was a toss-up between the Athos ETR and the Vortex Viper, and in the end the Vortex won out for two reasons: the no-questions warranty and the price. The Athos is a better optic, from what I hear; I’ve never held one. But I ultimately plan to paint this rifle, and Athos specifically calls out “painting or coating” as a warranty no-no whereas Vortex doesn’t care if you drop your scope into a barrel of paint and light it on fire. It didn’t hurt that I also found a good deal on the Viper online.

I was happy to learn that the Vortex Tactical low 30mm rings worked just fine! Plenty of clearance at the objective (barrel) and eyepiece (bolt) ends, even with a 20 MOA rail and flip-up caps.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/fc5b1d4eef41deaa83e62ed58a34a3ff.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/0cb350025c6c0d79c29de97975ccb3ef.jpg

I set eye relief in prone position with the scope turned all the way up to 25x.

I mounted and lapped the rings, then cleaned everything up and mounted the scope using some cheap bubble levels from Amazon.

I have the E-10 and O-44 Defender caps from Vortex as well. The objective end is really tight... but that’s better than the alternative, I guess. I just ordered the O-50 cap. I didn't realize it, but I had the wrong size.

As it sits...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/0b47a72b5ec9cd59c8f941ec431fc6b4.jpg

One other observation: I’m definitely going to need more comb on this stock. It looks like I’ll be moving ahead with making a Kydex cheek riser.

[Ryfulman]

Nice.
Here in Canada cabellas has the model 10T. Has a fatter barrel and isn’t fluted. 4 round mag,accustock and accutrigger. I put a 20 MOA rail and splattered a bit of 2 part Woody into the recoil lug recess in the accustock to farmer bed it.
Anyways those darn rifles are accurate as a custom rifle especially once you tune a load for it. They shot so well I bought a second one for a 260 build using a shilen tube,and a model 12 22-250 fast twist laser.
With the 185 grain juggs it’s a 1000+ yard gun. And the juggs maintain stability when passing thru the transonic zone,unlike most vld type bullets can.

[DeltaNu1142]

I played around a bit with the template for the cheek riser. Because the comb of the stock slopes downward from the scope eyepiece to the butt pad, I decided I would try to level it out with the riser... which means mounting it at a slight angle. I incorporated a 5-degree angle into the sides, back, and mounting holes to hopefully give me a comb that’s flat front-to-back and still follows the lines of the stock. Here’s the result. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/14tCeCMQxAqCI8aOmIt7x2XcJxL3OyLtz/view?usp=drivesdk)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190318/7552d357f298412ae2287021c5b32e4e.jpg

This looks like it’ll work. The top of the comb is more or less parallel with the centerline of the scope, and the slots are close to vertical so the riser won’t move forward or backward depending on its height. That’s what I was shooting for in this version.

[Willoughby]

I hope the partsfinder does come back

[Rocketmandb]

I ended up going with a Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 Gen II scope with the EBR-2C MOA reticle. There was a deal on one on eBay I couldn’t pass up. I should get it next week when I come back into town. I think the only thing that will be holding up mounting is the arrival of my lapping kit.

I have two of the PST Gen IIs. One is on my 6 CM, the other is in the box waiting for me to have the time to level the anti-cant so I can mount it on my Savage 300 PRC. It is a great scope - I believe it's the best for the money out there. Also, the EBR-2C is a great reticle. I'm hoping that because you got this reticle, you'll be using it as a holdover. I'm a pure holdover guy. I don't like adjusting the scope at all, and like being able to look through it and know exactly what I'm looking at. For me, the EBR-2C provides the perfect balance of information and usability in this mode.

As to your build, a couple things to consider:

1) Are you going to bed the scope rail? It takes only a little time, is inexpensive/easy to do, and can alleviate some issues if the rail doesn't perfectly match the mounts (which it seldom does).

2) On the cheek riser you're building, try to get the sides as close to the stock as possible. The farther off the stock it is, the more you have to angle your head to line up your eye with the scope. I played around with a friend's and I had to angle too much. It forced my ear muff cup off my right ear. His was probably 1/4" off the stock.

Looks like it's going to be a fun rifle.

[DeltaNu1142]

1) Are you going to bed the scope rail? It takes only a little time, is inexpensive/easy to do, and can alleviate some issues if the rail doesn't perfectly match the mounts (which it seldom does).I wasn’t planning to, but I did lap the rings—which is sort of “downstream” of bedding the rail. I THINK any issues with the rail binding/bending would have showed themselves with the rings mounted and the alignment kit in place.. wouldn’t they? Out of the box with everything mounted, alignment was perfect. I lapped the rings anyway to remove any high spots, and only the inside bottoms were scrubbed away a bit.


2) On the cheek riser you're building, try to get the sides as close to the stock as possible. The farther off the stock it is, the more you have to angle your head to line up your eye with the scope. I played around with a friend's and I had to angle too much. It forced my ear muff cup off my right ear. His was probably 1/4" off the stock.I have a 1/8” thick sheet of Kydex I haven’t cut yet. Once cut, I’ll be using a heat gun to shape it. I’ll hit it on both sides, right down the spine, and then form it to the stock. So, about the bend: should I go for exactly the same profile as the rifle stock comb? Looking at it from the back, should I try to get more of an upside-down V, or an upside-down U? I’ll have the stock pack installed over the top of it, too, so that’ll push my face out a little further. I’ve played around with it while looking through the scope, and I think I have some wiggle room with my head to go “out” from the center of the stock... that is, I can stand to have my cheek weld pushed left a bit (right-handed shooter, right eye dominant).


Looks like it's going to be a fun rifle.I hope. I’ve been moving into a house over the past week and it’s been sitting in a box. I need to find some time to get it sighted in.

[Rocketmandb]

I wasn’t planning to, but I did lap the rings—which is sort of “downstream” of bedding the rail. I THINK any issues with the rail binding/bending would have showed themselves with the rings mounted and the alignment kit in place.. wouldn’t they? Out of the box with everything mounted, alignment was perfect. I lapped the rings anyway to remove any high spots, and only the inside bottoms were scrubbed away a bit.

Lapping and bedding the rail do very similar things, but do so at different places. The reason you lap the rings is to provide more surface area for the scope to contact them. More surface area = more friction and thus less propensity to move. Bedding the rail performs this function between where the rail contacts the rifle, but it also eliminates introduced bend of the rail from when you torque down the screws. Introducing bend introduces torque against the scope. Some notes:

- You can test whether you are introducing torque by tightening the front screw of the rail and leaving the rear ones out. Then take a sheet of paper, bend it around the action, and try to slide it under the rear of the rail. If it goes in, then you're torquing the rail when you tighten it down.

- Even if there isn't room (there wasn't on my Savage, as an example, while there was a lot on my 6mm), chances are the rail doesn't fit perfectly against the top of the action just like your scope doesn't fit perfectly in the rings (well, most rings, some are made as to not need lapping). I did up a quick image to illustrate this below. That little white area between the blue (rail) and black (rifle) depicts what can happen when rails are mounted and don't match. That is area that is not providing surface friction. It's hard to tell for sure from the picture you posted from when you removed the rail, but there is evidence (the sheen down the middle of the forward mounting area) that the rail is contacting there, but not along the sides.

https://i.imgur.com/NS8sA4w.png
- Bedding a rail is pretty easy and costs next to nothing (you may already have everything you need). I use JB Weld, neutral shoe polish as a release agent and hole protector, a drill bit, and some Q-Tips. There are numerous "How To's" on the internet that show how to do this, but basically, you coat the top of the action with the polish (so the JB Weld won't stick to it), and use it to fill the screw holes in the action and rail (so JB Weld doesn't get into them and stick). Then put JB Weld on the bottom of the rail where it mounts in the rear, screw down the front, let the rear side sit, clean up the seepage, then let it partially cure (five hours or so). Then, while it's still pliable, you use the drill bit (manually, not with a drill) to clean out the mounting holes. Next, you mount the rail again, not fully tightened, until it cures. Finally, fully tighten it. It takes about 30 minutes of your time total, and a day of calendar time to do it.


I have a 1/8” thick sheet of Kydex I haven’t cut yet. Once cut, I’ll be using a heat gun to shape it. I’ll hit it on both sides, right down the spine, and then form it to the stock. So, about the bend: should I go for exactly the same profile as the rifle stock comb? Looking at it from the back, should I try to get more of an upside-down V, or an upside-down U? I’ll have the stock pack installed over the top of it, too, so that’ll push my face out a little further. I’ve played around with it while looking through the scope, and I think I have some wiggle room with my head to go “out” from the center of the stock... that is, I can stand to have my cheek weld pushed left a bit (right-handed shooter, right eye dominant).


I haven't worked with Kydex before. How difficult is it to cut and mount, and how expensive is it? If it's not too bad, then make one, work with it, and if it doesn't work, then make another. But do this before cutting the slots. You should be able to temporarily mount the riser to test before you cut the slot - perhaps shop clamps or something can work here. EDIT: Cutting slots after bending might be difficult.

Some notes on this:

- V vs. U. I would tend toward a U. On my Savage, I have an HS Precision stock, which is a little wider than most - more like a U. On my 6mm, the stock is thinner - more like a V. The HS Precision stock is MUCH more comfortable to shoot - even taking into account the recoil difference between a round that has almost twice the powder and more than twice the bullet weight. This might seem counter to what I wrote about regarding pushing away from the centerline, but I have a cheek riser that allows offset (see pic below). The reason why I like the thicker stock is that you should be letting the entire weight of your head rest on the cheek riser. If you are supporting it with neck muscles (while prone) or a combination of muscles and body structure (at a shooting bench), then you are introducing the opportunity for error - and neck muscle pain if you shoot more than like 20 rounds prone :). Temporarily mount to your stock, set the rifle up on the floor with a rear bag to support, rest your cheek on the riser, then close your eyes and pretend you're going to sleep - use your riser like a pillow - take all muscle support out of the equation. Rest for like 10 seconds, then open your eyes and see where you end up and how things feel. Adjust as desired.

https://i.imgur.com/eWVaPoM.jpg

- Same shape as comb? Completely up to you, though as I said, I like rounder/fatter over thinner. where your cheek will be resting Also, as I mentioned earlier, keep it as tight to the stock as possible. My friend had spacers in between the stock and riser so the two wouldn't rub against each other, but they were too thick. I think you could accomplish the same thing by buying some thinner PTFE fender washers - or try without if you don't think you need them.

[DeltaNu1142]

Revisiting this thread after a move—still in progress—but I’ve made headway on the cheek riser, so I thought I’d post it.

I shaped the 1/8” Kydex with a Dremel. It cut easily enough, and I sanded the edges with 320 grit sandpaper. I’ll probably do some finer shaping with a dowel and some coarse paper, but the 320 is all I have on hand.

I cut the Velcro section that I’m going to adhere to the Kydex. I’m going to have to do some research on what epoxy holds best. Before I do that, though, I’ll be drilling holes for the adjustment slots. After that, bending. I’ll probably go with a rounder profile than what’s on the stock. I plan to use star washers between the riser and the stock for grip, but nothing else for spacing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190405/6cc4d8a015d93c75fd978ec390538f49.jpg

As for the rail bedding... I think it’s a good idea. I will probably get the chance to tackle that in the next few weeks.

EDIT: The Internet says 3M weatherstrip adhesive is the ticket for Velcro-Kydex bonding.