Installing barrel... question about indexing factory markings

[NCHuntr]

So, I am installing a new take off Axis 243 sporter barrel on an Axis action I had laying around. My question is about indexing the factory markings. I know when swapping factory barrels it is not guaranteed that after headspacing the factory markings will line up.... BUT this is a factory Axis barrel on a Axis action and it is not even close. When headspaced with Go/No Go gauges the markings are at 4 o'clock position when 10 o'clock would be perfect (rough estimate).

I would understand if I was putting a 10/110 barrel onto an Axis action, or vice versa.... but why do you think it is so far off?

I did another Axis with a 22-250 HB that was also a new takeoff from an Axis and the factory markings lined up perfectly. Luck I guess?

I know it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things... but it will bother me for sure. I guess I am just picky like that. Thanks.

[J.Baker]

Very rare for the marks to line up when a barrel is installed on a different action than it left the factory on. Where the thread starts over the 360-degree circumference both on the barrel and on the action can vary which is why they typically won't. Then you have the stacked tolerances of all the parts in the bolt assembly and the action itself that can affect things as well.

[Dennis]

I concentrate on "minimum" headspace, and the marking fall where ever they fall.

[Robinhood]

On any given barrel that uses a nut to tighten the tenon repeatability of the barrel markings are not a consideration. The location of the starting thread on both the action and barrel as well as the differences in distance from the rear of the bolt head lug and the face of the bolt head.

The simple way to line up the barrel markings is to determine the distance the barrel needs to travel to get the correct position you desire. (Every 360* of rotation is .050" movement linearly , 180* =.025, 90*= .0125, 45*=.0063 etc...) Then see if the bolt lugs and face can be altered a slight amount to maintain the correct head space and achieve stamp position. As an example removing .004" off of the rear of the bolt head and another 2 off of the bolt face would net you 40+ degrees. You could by ten BH's, get lucky and find one that netted you the same. Next option would be to skim the abutments or have the chamber depth increased and then skim barrel for correct protrusion. Take too much off the abutments or back of the bolt head and you change things you might not want to. Sooooo, from 4:00 to 10:00 is 180* and that means you need to move .025 and will need a real gunsmith.:o

So unless you are something more than a Savagesmith you might just leave it alone.