My opinion on a Barrel Vise VS Action Wrench

[Model12BVSS]

Model12BVSS, What you do is what many of us started out doing. That or using a barrel vise and nut wrench only. The single purpose IMHO is chasing correct head space. It can be done easily your way however some of us use all three to ensure that the barrel and the action junction does not rotate(alter the head space setting) while tightening the nut.

What can and does happen is the surface/contact area between the threads on the nut and on the barrel is enough to cause the barrel to rotate with the nut as it begins to tighten, thus altering the desired head space setting. Having the barrel and the action under control while tightening the nut seems to deter the chance of rotation. Not a perfect solution but effective enough. while you may see no need others like having the same head space for same caliber rifles or simply knowing exactly where you set your head space. Some don't anneal, some do. Some have no use in getting their charges very close or seating their primers a certain way, some do. It is all up to you.

I can definitely see the advantages of using both if your trying to make sure the headspace setting doesn’t change and the barrel doesn’t move when tightening the barrel nut. I usually just try to compensate for it and it works out for me. I’m not a benchrest shooter I shoot PRS so as long as my reloads still shoot .5 MOA or so when I spin the barrel back on I’m a happy camper.

[Orezona]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OP0XuvWR_Q

These guys (Criterion) say a barrel vise is not recommended. If and when I ever do a barrel swap it will most likely be a Criterion barrel and tools from NSS. I think I will still use a barrel vise with in conjunction with the other tools.

[mnbogboy2]

I see two problems with the "Criterion" method. I personally would not torque with the bolt closed. If the barrel walks with the nut (and they most times do) the gauge could damage the chamber. If it does not walk it would most likely end up a hair looser than snug. This most likely would pass both gauge tests and be ok but not "exactly" snug like a person would think. Thread fit often determines how much it loosens from snug to torqued. It is not always the same so a check with shims on the go gauge will tell you how much.
I often set several rifles the same to be able to use the same bump settings on my sizing dies.
If speed in setting headspace is a priority then my system in an earlier post won't work for you. Sometimes it takes me an extra try or two to get it just right.
Using all three tools will get you there also once you figure out how much it loosens when torquing. Then a slight adjustment should get you "close" on the first try.
To me headspacing to satisfy the gauges is not close enough in most cases.
Imho

[mnbogboy2]

In addition, there are some "cheap" gauges out there (like ones in Shaw kits) that are more likely to do chamber damage then others with the taper cut on them.

[Robinhood]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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[Mxstar317]

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[Txhillbilly]

I have never used a barrel vise on any Savage style barrel swap,I only use an action vise,nut wrench,and a 4lb dead blow hammer. I don't install the action vise on the action until the barrel/barrel nut is screwed on the action,and the head space is set with the barrel nut finger tight. I wrap a couple layers of blue painters tape around the action before I put it in the action vise,and then tighten the action vise bolts down TIGHT.

If you tighten the action wrench bolts down correctly,the barrel cannot move at all when you tighten the barrel nut. I've done a couple dozen barrel swaps/installs over the years,and have never had any head space issues just using an action wrench to do it. If your barrel can still turn with an action wrench installed on the action,you need to tighten the bolts on the action wrench more!

[mnbogboy2]

Txhillbilly,
Having observed exactly what are describing will lead me to try what you are doing. Having noticed if I tighten my action wrench (vice) too much I cannot freely spin the barrel when setting headspace. The extra torque must deform the reciever somewhat. That being said I always loosen it at that point. If tightening after setting headspace keeps it from "walking" then it may make my method a little easier.
Thanks for the tip. I have a couple switches coming up this month so I am going to try your method.
Happy New Year

[Bigeclipse]

I had picked up a Wheeler Action Wrench quite a while back. Used it one time and never again. Had it on a stainless small shank action. It was tight enough that I had to loosen it to turn the barrel and to stop the squealing as it turned. Never again. Can't sell it because it would cost more than I paid for it to ship.
Now, barrel gets chucked up in a "padded" bench vice, nut wrench gets smacked with a steel hammer to brake loose then the process gets reversed. A good "smack" with steel hammer on steel nut wrench and it's tight enough. I've probably done a dozen or so and NEVER had a barrel come loose. Each action is marked and the barrel gets the same markings. Usually a Magic Marker and blue tape. Head space is set "on the snug side" with brass as all of my rigs are Wildcats. No New factory ammo available.
did you not tape your action with electrical tape? I have now used NSS action wrench which I believe is just like the wheeler and had zero issues. Line up the recoil lug. Snug down the action wrench screws. Take nut off. Pretty easy with no "squealing"....

[Bigeclipse]

I have never used a barrel vise on any Savage style barrel swap,I only use an action vise,nut wrench,and a 4lb dead blow hammer. I don't install the action vise on the action until the barrel/barrel nut is screwed on the action,and the head space is set with the barrel nut finger tight. I wrap a couple layers of blue painters tape around the action before I put it in the action vise,and then tighten the action vise bolts down TIGHT.

If you tighten the action wrench bolts down correctly,the barrel cannot move at all when you tighten the barrel nut. I've done a couple dozen barrel swaps/installs over the years,and have never had any head space issues just using an action wrench to do it. If your barrel can still turn with an action wrench installed on the action,you need to tighten the bolts on the action wrench more!

I cant disagree with this statement more...Actually the directions say you do not want those screws to tight as it can damage the receiver and if you are tightening them so tight as to make the barrel hard to turn, then you are 100% stressing the receiver. The recoil lug fits in the action wrench slot as to not allow the receiver to spin anyways so why tighten it so much? I have not done as many barrel swaps as you but I have done a few and never needed to turn the bolts on the action wrench so tight as to not be able to turn the barrel into the receiver......

[mnbogboy2]

Bigeclipse,
I looked up the wheeler instructions and you are 100% correct. It says you can bend or crush the reciever.
Guess I will continue as always and spend 2 or 3 extra minutes dialing the headspace just the way I want it. I've only changed maybe 100 or so but always looking to learn a "better way".
My barrel vise and action "vise" are mounted on the same bench but not concentric to each other, if they were I would use both like others on here. Guess I'll stick with what works.
Thanks for the heads up.