Axis 270 to Ruger 375 Conversion

[Dave Hoback]

Im the same thing my friend. Hobbyist. I’ve never made a living as a Gunsmith, machinist or the Custom Knifemaking I do. And the knives are the only thing I’ve ever charged money for. Anything having to do with gunsmithing/fixing/building and machining, I’ve always done free of charge. 20 years about, and I’ve never charged a dime.

Machining a firing pin is easier than you may think. I’ve shown this in other threads… I did this one in S7 Tool steel for the extra weight, but I’ll likely make one in Titanium at some point. I turn these small parts on my mill also. I don’t have the space for a proper sized lathe. The pictures show the factory pin on (Top) and the one I machined (Bottom)

https://i.ibb.co/vzXXnPw/7-CD53179-6424-401-F-8-A12-6-D6-A4-B07333-B.jpg (https://ibb.co/x5FFTjC)

And with the matching cross pin because the pin is thicker in this region. The Cross Pin is made of Titanium.
https://i.ibb.co/PQbS1TL/BCC7-C330-6812-45-E8-A40-F-C7-C782-CF1-C8-D.jpg (https://ibb.co/ySM3gh9)

And the finished pin.
https://i.ibb.co/VjQC2Yj/FFF40157-1576-4-A45-B1-E5-4516478-AD712.jpg (https://ibb.co/4mYSPRm)

[calinb]

Machining a firing pin is easier than you may think. I’ve shown this in other threads… I did this one in S7 Tool steel for the extra weight, but I’ll likely make one in Titanium at some point. I turn these small parts on my mill also. I don’t have the space for a proper sized lathe. The pictures show the factory pin on (Top) and the one I machined (Bottom)

Wow--so nice! And no lathe either. Your result is proof of what I often say; the end result is 90% machinist and only 10% machine. Well--that's assuming few time constraints and I know that production machine work is another story, but clever and ingenious and often time-consuming setups can make up for much of the lack of machine! I'll search for your other treads.

Off topic:
Your photos remind me that I need to repair my good digital camera (for a second time) so I can document my work for others to peruse too. My cheap smartphone takes crappy close-ups! The repair of my better digital camera requires something like 2 hours of microsurgery to access a sticking iris and re-assemble it. It's a plastic iris and, though probably made from thin nylon or other "self lubricating" material, its gets sticky in time. It's a known bug in these otherwise nice but older Sanyo Xacti cameras and the fix is to clean the sticky factory factory-applied lubricant using denatured alcohol and re-assemble it without any lube. It worked for a couple of years after the last time, but it's sticking again. I now suspect the plastic might be denaturing in time and shedding some kind of sticky substance. I might try soaking it in Frog Lube after cleaning before wiping it dry this time, but I have to find the time to do it.

[Dave Hoback]

Hahaha! Those pics are with my my IPhone 12 mini. I will say, it takes pretty darn nice pics. LOL!

[calinb]

Hahaha! Those pics are with my my IPhone 12 mini. I will say, it takes pretty darn nice pics. LOL!


Hahaha! Those pics are with my my IPhone 12 mini. I will say, it takes pretty darn nice pics. LOL!
I can't complain about my phone for the price ($150 base price but I upgraded memory so $200). It's a Pinephone (Linux based and designed not to spy on its users) but it's still very much under development. Still, I like the open source hardware and software and, though I don't code much anymore, I participate in testing, debugging, bug reporting and I assist in the community development effort. I've run and worked on Linux-based machines of a wide variety about as long as there's been Linux (early Slackware Linux days).

I'm very happy with my cocking slot rework. A cheap Chinese TiN coated high speed steel end mill wouldn't touch it though. I had to use a quality USA-made TiCN coated carbide end mill.

The part of the cocking pin that rides against the side of the slot is 3/16 diameter so I touched off the straight side of the cocking pin slot in the bolt body and milled into the tight corner where the pin was bottoming at maximum protrusion. I thought the radius at the end of the slit looked slighter greater than the pin radius and sure enough--I was able to mill along the straight side of the slot and lengthen the slot by my goal of 0.014 without changing the angle of the other angled side of the slot (so no change to cocking effort). After cutting the slot 0.014 longer, I used my DROs to turn both x and y handwheels to change direction and blend my new very slightly smaller radius right into the angled side of the slot. The geometry turned out to be perfect to give me another 0.014 with no change to the angle on the cocking side of the slot.

Though the machined finish was very good, I used a Cratex fine grinding/polishing bit and my Dremel tool to smooth and shine it up and then I put the bolt back together. I measured 0.036 firing pin protrusion and the cocking pin wiggles easily in the slot a little so I'm sure I realized the 0.010 clearance that I wanted and the firing pin stop is now the bolt head shank instead of the end of the slot, just as it should be.

Next step is hot bluing my new 358 Norma Shaw barrel and installing it to the action. Then I'll open up my Boyds Pro Varmint barrel channel to clear and free float the new heavier barrel and bed the action to the stock.