Bolt hang-up on Model 10 BA

[DWalk]

Recently bolt started hanging up after firing to the point of having to sharply rap on bolt handle. Works fine without cartridges. Changed ammo brand, no improvement. Removed, disassembled and cleaned bolt. Didnt notice notice any scratches or wear areas. There has been no changes to the frame or scope additions. Ejection of cartridge is fine. Occurs with or without box magazine in. Cleaning improved first couple of round then hang-up returned. Thinking front bolt lug some how binding with shells additional space? Thx in advance for any suggestions or assistance.

[J.Baker]

Does it only hang up after firing, or does it also do it when opening on unfired rounds?

[DWalk]

Thx for responding. After live fire and on unfired round, and on empty casing. Just recleaned the chamber. Still hangs-up. It shouldn't be the bolt release lever catching on firing pin button, after firing that up out of the way. Still think it in the front bolt lug.

[short round]

The front action screw may be to long, interfering with bolt head. Back screw off & see what happens. If tat helps, shorten screw.

[DWalk]

Thx for the response. I had taken both action screws out and problem persists. when chamber is empty the bolt seats easily with the handle rotation making the bolt move forward about 1/4 inch. with casing in chamber the bolt need to be pressed forward then turn and seat. on the rotation of the handle the bolt does not move forward. ? issue of barrel head clearance ? Saw a gun parts vendor have the bolt head piece for $32. Much less than sending back to Savage.

[celltech]

I can't believe the headspace would suddenly shrink like that. Debris in the chamber perhaps? Have you scrubbed out the chamber real good?

[Robinhood]

Sounds like something in the chamber or a carbon ring. Are there any marks or scratches on the brass or bullet?

[DWalk]

Thx for the input. No marks on bullet or casing. Carbon ring makes sense. I did scrub chamber with solvent but its a difficult area to see and access. A snake camera would be ideal. Ill reclean chamber with long tapered brush and solvent. Im very reluctant to remove barrel to get access to chamber.

[DWalk]

After a weekend in zen mode with the gun. I have exhausted trouble shooting causes to eliminate everything but the front head of bolt. The chamber does not have carbon ring by direct inspection with bore scope after reverse (Chamber to muzzle) with brass brush cleaning, removed ejection mechanizing, removed floating lug, removed firing pin post anything that would get caught during bolt function. After all of that it functions fine without a cartridge, but continues to hang on empty shell casing and live round. After elimination, the only thing left is the front head bolt lug. Replacement of that piece is $32, maybe small price to test theory before gunsmith or sending back to Savage. What say you all?

[olddav]

Could primary extraction be the problem?

[J.Baker]

If you change out the bolt head you will have to check/reset the headspace.

That said, as olddave mentioned it coule be a primary extraction issue. Savage had some bad bolt handles get out a few years back where the primary extraction ramps were ground down to far while cleaning up a casting booger that resulted in insufficient primary extraction.

The primary extraction ramp is built into the bold handle and rear baffle. If you have a set of feeler gauges, try putting different thicknesses between the rear of the action and the rear baffle then test. Can't recall what the typical gap is, but I'm sure one of the other guys here will chime in with what's "normal." A few different ways to deal with it, but most just replace the bolt handle.

[Texas10]

Bought an action off this site a couple of years ago with the same issue. The problem was at the top of the bolt opening cycle, not the bottom (initial movement of bolt). Not sure which you are having issues with, but if it's the last bit of bolt opening it's probably the rear baffle/primary extraction timing.

Not the quickest way, but the most educational way to resolve this.

To check this, first remove the rear baffle from the bolt body (simply twist until spring loaded ball drops into the cocking ramp cut out) and try again. If it's a primary extraction issue, the problem will be eliminated at this stage. Then with the bolt reassembled, slide a .005 feeler gage between the rear baffle and action body with the bolt closed and then try to open. If the symptoms get worse, it's the rear baffle timing. You can fix this by grinding or filing a little off the extraction ramp on the rear baffle OR the bolt handle until it opens smoothly. Or simply change out the bolt handle and/or rear baffle and see if the issue resolves itself. Part are inexpensive and easily available from Savage Customer Service.

I chose to grind a little off the bolt handle. Fix took all of about 2 min using a small cut off wheel on a die grinder held flat against the ramp then polished it with a Cratex wheel.

[mnbogboy2]

+1 on what Texas10 , J.Baker & olddav are saying. Was my first thought also. Start with the feeler gauge. My thought was wear on the bolt handle and/or rear baffle. If better with feeler gauge replace one or both. If worse then Texas10 was on the right track.

[geezerhood]

Do you have another bolt you could borrow some parts from - bolt handle and rear baffle - to see if that fixes the problem?

[Robinhood]

Before the problem started: Did you reset the headspace? Is it hard to close the bolt? Did you change the bolt head? Did you change the rear baffle? Have you shot any steel cased ammo? Do you leave lubricant/cleaning fluid in your chamber when you go shoot?

Why would primary extraction issues like binding from too little clearance or no PE from open clearances be happening on a rifle that originally had no issues unless a part has been changed, "Gunked" up or worn. Factory ammo once worked and now it doesn't. The OP has indicated that the factory ammo does not fit when it once did. Unless there is more to the story something is in the chamber or the ejector spring is frozen. For me I would start by checking to make sure the ejector and extractor move freely. I would use a chamber brush with some fine steel wool wrapped around it. Add a section of cheap cleaning rod and a cordless drill and spin it in the chamber with some light oil or penetrating fluid. Clean. Test.

Primary extraction can be checked too but my feeling is if he didn't change any parts then its not a new problem. It never hurts too check that but my experience tells me if the timing is off on the tight side there is a definite hard spot on open. Right when the ramps engage. An unfired factory round should not require PE unless there is a dirty or sticky chamber issue. Maybe I'm wrong but thats what I look for in my crazy world.

[DWalk]

Thx for your input. See below thread 11/24/18

[mnbogboy2]

After a weekend in zen mode with the gun. I have exhausted trouble shooting causes to eliminate everything but the front head of bolt. The chamber does not have carbon ring by direct inspection with bore scope after reverse (Chamber to muzzle) with brass brush cleaning, removed ejection mechanizing, removed floating lug, removed firing pin post anything that would get caught during bolt function. After all of that it functions fine without a cartridge, but continues to hang on empty shell casing and live round. After elimination, the only thing left is the front head bolt lug. Replacement of that piece is $32, maybe small price to test theory before gunsmith or sending back to Savage. What say you all?
]
Changing the bolt head most likely requires barrel "removal" to set headspace anyway. Never have seen the bolt head change, other than damage from leaky or "blown" primers. And even then headspace does not change.

Robinhood's approach is what I would take
If chambering factory ammo requires pushing and did not before then chamber / abutment lugs are dirty or your barrel has been "turned in" somehow. You did not mention if you or a smith has replaced or adjusted the barrel. If that has happened the headspace may need to be re-adjusted.
One last thing but I have never seen is a loose barrel nut. If the barrel nut were to come loose the thread fit would allow the barrel to become mis-alighned with the reciever. But I doubt if it would shoot decent if that happened.
Last a check for primary extraction timing is to remove rear baffle and try chambering new brass. If it now chambers freely the pe timing may be off. Remember that bolt handle changes often cause issues like this. The baffles themselves are kind of like snowflakes with no 2 being the same. Any mismatch of bolt handle and rear baffle may cause issues in one or both directions. This can also happen with a bolt body change.
A lot of variables for proper pe. Wear on baffle and bolt handle will affect extraction but not chambering.

[Robinhood]

Thx for your input. See below thread 11/24/18

Sorry but I don't get this.

Was there anything changed prior to the problem? Did you take the barrel off and put it back on? Did you change any bolt parts? If something was changed it is imperative to diagnosis.
Check yes or no.


You seem to be pointing to the "Front Lug" as being the issue. This would indicate you know something we don't or we know something you don't. Not being rude but none of us know your level of savagesmithing.

[mnbogboy2]

Thx for your input. See below thread 11/24/18

My phone isn't showing this post either. In total agreement with Robinhood our brotherhood of Savage guys need more input from you. When enough of us put our experiences together we usually can solve our problems together. I guess that's why we are all here to learn from each other.