110e .270 build help

[DesertDug]

One more dap of epoxy should have done it. Copy that on cleaning out the sides and bottom, which had a great fit. It is at the top of the lug you can see the voids. I get this right and I think I am in the game.

[RustyShackle]

I run a layer of tape around the edge and forward portion of the recoil lug. I’ve also just skim bedded like that using jb weld without issue.

[DesertDug]

I run a layer of tape around the edge and forward portion of the recoil lug. I’ve also just skim bedded like that using jb weld without issue.
Was the skim bed done on top of expoy? I have the iiquid steel which is what I am leaning towards but I am concerned about them bonding in high stress area.

[RustyShackle]

Was the skim bed done on top of expoy? I have the iiquid steel which is what I am leaning towards but I am concerned about them bonding in high stress area.

I sanded down the top layer just enough to remove any contaminates left behind from release agent. So far no issue.

[DesertDug]

It cleaned up nicely. I went with the epoxy yesterday. I had to snug up on the studs which may not be good, but I have relaxed them, again not much squeee out which points in a good direction. I am gonna get this thing bedded if it takes me the whole pound of epoxy.

https://s8.postimg.cc/vbxznounp/IMG_1714.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/3ola9l9gx/)https://s8.postimg.cc/omrg7fgyt/IMG_1715.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/54wsrhk0x/)

[DesertDug]

Success!

FITS LIKE A GLOVE!

https://s8.postimg.cc/3mpr5gt85/IMG_1717.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/rdp4nktf5/)
https://s8.postimg.cc/sfzb6573p/IMG_1718.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/jxpv1t0kx/)

There is a indention on the front of the lug at the barrel nut. I hope the ones who have been through this advise if I should clean that up.

is it worth skimming the rough side? Or is this just cosmetic?

[mnbogboy2]

I think after a couple more days of epoxy curing you should be ready to shoot it! The savage lugs always leave an indent there. Your after market lug (probably pinned) wont. It certainly won't make a difference with the tiny bit left unfilled.
I looked on here a couple of times today hoping that you would be smiling! Glad to see it.
Later,
Randy

[DesertDug]

Thanks Randy. I feel like it is gonna do it's job and not be a negative. I did the front action screw set then the rear and release the front and watch for movement. None. Well that I could see. No magnet micro measuring tools. By it fits like a glove.

[mnbogboy2]

Doug,
Answering your other question, a quick fill of the voids on the sides might make it look better. If everything is still taped up it wouldn't take long and an overnighter of curing should take care of it. Before you remove the action a trimming of the excess spill over with an exacto knife, razor blade or box cutter should keep it from tearing as the action comes back out. When it is fully cured it can be sanded smooth.

[DesertDug]

I will skim it out before it is finished but I may try to get it back together in time for the weekend trip to the lease. Need to plant fall clover and we have rain. Then again we have rain and I need to be patient. I am just so glad it come out like it has so far. I am, sure it will out shoot me.

[DesertDug]

Ok so I started to reassemble the action. Got the mag box back on. Slid the front tab in and one wack with rubber mallet on a flat head screw driver at an angle at the back tab and bam, right back in place. All going good.

So on to the trigger. I see how it all goes back together, it I just can't get the sear spring under tension back into place. Searched here looking for a trick I am not thinking of. Found someone saying to remove the trigger from the assembly. I did this, still no luck. I am using a slave pin from the opposite side but just can't get it all lined up with the spring in the right location. What am I missing?

Taking a break to let my blood pressure to drop. What am I missing?

[mnbogboy2]

Here is a link. Pictures are towards the end. Squeeze the spring in place with your thumb at its center push the pin in to capture the center of the spring. Steer it in by pushing against the slave.
Key is squeezing it in just far enough to get it started.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?35261-re-installing-complete-110-trigger-assy

[DesertDug]

Got it Randy. I have a bum pointer finger that I can not bend so my dexterity sucks in my hands, besides being lefty which is tuff in a right handed world. I finally put the action in a vise and I used a pen to push the spring and finally the pin went all the way in. This build is a great way to get to know this riffle. I had took the wire spring off so now I will need to reset the triger. This will be good practice since I ordered a new Timeny today on sale. Let the fun continue!

oh good link, that's the one I had found and got me to remove the triger. Also found a good YouTube video which provide the plan off attack.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RdolzpycRiw

[mnbogboy2]

Glad you got it Doug. The link from Billpa is a good one, he is one sharp guy. I've learned a bunch from his posts.
The video you posted is also very informative. I recall someone blasting a similar video because they put the pin in from the "wrong" side. I have my own ideas on that. Sometimes the pin will "walk" away from home position while in use and eventually stop when it encounters the stock. If the pin is inserted like in the video one that walks that direction would stay in place. The opposite would be true if the walking was the other direction.
If no walking out is evident then the pins head should be on the spring side (as in Billpa's pics). This is because if it walked to the left it could possibly release the sear spring.
Don't worry about changing it if you went with the video's direction. But keep an eye on it next time you remove the stock to see if the pin is moving.
Also the video mentioned the bushing he lost. I can only remember seeing one or two. I am not sure but I don't think Savage even uses them anymore. Someone who tears apart new guns will know.
Good shooting if you get out this weekend.

[DesertDug]

I had been at first tring to place pin starting on the spring side, but got it in from the other side. I believe that is the way it was when I removed it. I did have a bushing in the spring and it was giving me fits tring to keep it inside of the spring eye.

I will keep an an eye on it. Make sense what you say about it walking.

[DesertDug]

Got her all back together!

First I resurfaced the action face.
Beforehttps://s8.postimg.cc/7z51pmfb9/IMG_1679.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/551wc6d4x/)


After
https://s8.postimg.cc/551wcb2w5/IMG_1719.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/z9qcxo7z5/)

Sanded with 500 grit.

Then I went to hobby lobby and got .039 music wire and replaced the triger spring. I works great. I do not have a pull scale, but it is noticeably lighter. Gonna cancel the ordered timney. $99 price difference. Wire was $1.07 and have enough for 20 or so triggers..

Here is a side. Y side of the spring wire
https://s8.postimg.cc/mwdiqdd1d/IMG_1722.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/mwdiqdd1d/)

The only thing I might do right away is bed the dmz grim reaper one piece scoope base. The rubbing suggest to me that it is not quite solid in connection. What does the nut club think?
https://s8.postimg.cc/g5x1h32s5/IMG_1725.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/4gt1t4btd/)


Here is the finish product. Looks like I might to get to shoot her tomorrow!
https://s8.postimg.cc/4tkfzdeol/IMG_1726.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/9fgk7q07l/)

weighs in right at 8.25 pounds.

[mnbogboy2]

Good luck Doug. I hope it shoots as good as it looks.

[RustyShackle]

That looks fantastic! You might bed the base, can’t hurt.

[DesertDug]

She shoots too
50 yards.
!https://i.postimg.cc/zGtTx4TD/IMG_1727.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cv3KH9DP)
https://i.postimg.cc/bvZkWLRx/IMG_1728.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LqMJZtw5)

[mnbogboy2]

I'm smiling! Looks real good. What kind of loads?