110e .270 build help

[RustyShackle]

Would this be improvement or is there a chance I may booger things up?

Overall improvement in the fit, although it’s not critical. It will allow the recoil lug and nut to seat better,(more friction due to contact area) if you take your time and don’t get aggressive it’s hard to mess this process up.

[mnbogboy2]

You could run the face over a 1000 grit sandpaper that is placed on a very flat surface. Use light circular motion. It won’t help true the action but it will square the face. You will likey find high spots.

Rusty's method is going to help in your case. It surely won't hurt. To me your photo of the thread end of the receiver shows high spots (shiny spots). These will interfere with the lug torque and may cause poi change during shot strings. You are looking for a good flat surface to mate with your new lug. With the 1000 grit paper it would take forever to booger it up. Personally I would start with something much coarser and finish up with the fine paper.
You most likely will see the edge that is not "blued" when you are finished. Options are cold blue or paint (no big whoop).

[DesertDug]

there are high spots for sure on the face, as well as what looks like tooling marks, not a smooth surface. I will give a go at cleaning these up.

I did some more research regarding my needing surface and broke down and ordered 1 lbs of the Devcon 101100 putty. I also have two tubes of Devcon epoxy which I will use for the pilers.

Everything is on order, so till arrival not much can be done on the build.

[DesertDug]

Just got a call and my barrel is in the mail. Things are stating to come around are ready for use.

[DesertDug]

Got my tap in tonight. Tapped front action screw in old stock. The rear was over sized because I had used a 13/32 bit. 11/32 required for tap. Mixed up some Devon plastic steel for the sleeve and have them set after a dry fit. Seed to go smoothly, will see tomorrow. Still waiting on barrel. The stock will need to be opened up in the channel first when it arrives.

action with studs wrapped with tape to make sure centered on sleeves.
https://s8.postimg.cc/axyybfjjp/IMG_1680.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/jszsly8c1/)picture uploader (https://postimages.org/)

Dry fit sleeves.
https://s8.postimg.cc/o24io6gr9/IMG_1681.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/ptxhj3041/)how to upload a picture on the internet (https://postimages.org/)
Rear action sleeve may be slightly short, it not to concerned on this test run.

[mnbogboy2]

Looks good so far. I like it.

[DesertDug]

Thanks Randy. I have the stock and barrel sitting upside down. Do I need the bungee it together or under its own weight ok?

[mnbogboy2]

As long as the receiver is sitting all the way down for this job should be ok. The bungee certainly should insure that it does.
I personally use spacers/ washers and nuts on the studs to make sure a little excess bedding doesn't creep up and holds the action off of where it should sit. With the barrel you can get a good idea that it is sitting where you want it.
When you do the lug bedding job you probably want to snug it in place with the nuts. In my humble opinion

[mnbogboy2]

A nice thing about the taped studs is that you can "double nut" them to remove them before you "break" the action free of the bedding. A good puddy, tape & release agent job is a major part of a good bed job.

[DesertDug]

The test stock had the lug beded already, so the fit was nice and tight. I will secure when I bed the action, or at least that's the plan.

Does the barrel need to be head spaced prior to bedding the action?

[mnbogboy2]

As long as no part of the barrel and nut are not interfering with the stock then it shouldn't make a difference. The nut should be torqued to make sure the lug is in correct position. Also after the barrel is head spaced correctly a free float check must pass or more channel material must be removed to fit the action in the bedding where it belongs.
As far as the lug bedding in the "test" action, might be best to re-bed because when the action is torqued in the new pillars it is most likely going to move a little. Removing a little from the old bedding should be enough. Then installing the action and snuggling it down will make a perfect fit.

[DesertDug]

The fear has settled. Pillars came out just like they should. So on to the next step. I ruffed up the areas that beds to action and lug. Taped off the front and sides of the lug. Play-doe in the voids. Kiwi shoe polish on everything that might touch the Devcon 10110 bedding. Used a Velcro wire tie to hold action in place. Clean up with mineral spirits. Just a small amount of squeeze out, so I think i used the right amount, which can not be said of the amount I mixed up. Way to much, at least there is enough for the real thing. I was really surprised how little was in the jars, they were only filled up about 1/3 of the volume in the jars.

Here are progress pictures.

https://s8.postimg.cc/b2lpoamfp/IMG_1682.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/p91gjixap/)
https://s8.postimg.cc/e9g97ywlx/IMG_1683.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/51o0r9pjl/)

https://s8.postimg.cc/63y79vdit/IMG_1684.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[mnbogboy2]

Looks good Doug,
My impatience had me pull em apart too early in the past. Now I wait two or three days. I always keep the leftover mix to follow its hardness. If you pull it apart to early it might distort or even take out material that it should not. (Been there).
When the time comes back out the studs and whack the barrel with a rubber mallet. The kiwi polish should do it's job.
The first couple are scary but my bet is yours is going to come out great!

[DesertDug]

Ok so the leftovers are still pliable but that's ok because I got to play with my new barrel. Here are first mock ups.
https://s8.postimg.cc/hum8lulmt/IMG_1686.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/eb0aw1iwx/)

https://s8.postimg.cc/omcno4pvp/IMG_1685.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

at first looks not too much of channel needs to be opened up, something I have never done. Words from others who have I am all ears. Need to look at sockets, maybe dermal drum sanding wheel. Plan to finish out test tomorrow.

[DesertDug]

1:10 Twist 5R Groove, 11 Degree Crown, Matte finish, cryo'ed 25' .270 win, 416R stainless steel, light puma.
https://s8.postimg.cc/zagenefet/IMG_1687.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/s78j7s9z5/)

https://s8.postimg.cc/n8l0ta8r9/IMG_1688.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/5vaqefdg1/)

[mnbogboy2]

If you use deepwell sockets wrapped with 320 sandpaper it shouldn't take much work to get you close. Finish with a finer grit (600). You might need the dremel with a drum possibly in the barrel nut area but most likely not. Go slow with the "socket" sander and check with a paper strip often for full float.
Of coarse you can't get started until you headspace the barrel and tighten down the action.
As mentioned before the lack of patience often gets us in a bind. But your progress so far
combined with patience is going to leave you with a nice end result!
Hope others would join in and offer more of their expertise.

[DesertDug]

Hope others would join in and offer more of their expertise.

Agreed, Thread seems to get a lot of views but not may leaving comments?

i could use all the help/ wisdom I can can get as this is my first bolt action build and not quite the logo piece build an ar is.

[Evlshnngns]

I used a drum sander, keeping it away from the edges, to speed up opening the channel. Then I used deep sockets and a broom handle(ha ha) with 100 grit. I opened mine up to 1.1" for a bull barrel, lots-O-dust.

On the triggers, I have one three screw. Without the wire installed, it still has more than a 2 pound trigger. I need to order an RB for it.

Nice build, I like the updates.

[SageRat Shooter]

I just used a 5/8" wooden dowel and wrapped 100 grit sandpaper around it to bring it up to about an 1" and started sanding.... doesn't take too long either... One thing I will say is you have to switch hands that you're sanding with every so often, otherwise the channel gets a little out of uniform (too much off one side and not enough on the other)... after you get it where you want just make sure to put some true oil (or similar) on it to seal it up.

[DesertDug]

On the triggers, I have one three screw. Without the wire installed, it still has more than a 2 pound trigger. I need to order an RB for it.

Nice build, I like the updates.
I am already putting up my pennies and reading up on this. Leaning towards Sav2 in silver.


Mailgal gal brought this to the house
Lambeth / Savage from PT&G.

Getting rid of the "e" of my 110e Build
https://s8.postimg.cc/hi9lazf91/IMG_1691.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/6iodzdott/)
https://s8.postimg.cc/5rvntleqt/IMG_1690.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/n55y8ga1t/)image upload (https://postimages.org/)
https://s8.postimg.cc/xujn0je39/IMG_1692.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/daet21yc1/)picture host (https://postimages.org/)



Now back to to the test.
Ran into my first hiccup. Wished I had read this thread:

http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?7617-Devcon-Plastic-Steel-Mixing-Ratios

The Devcon 10110 does not have a mix ratio on the box or paperwork. The devcon liquid steel used for the pillars has a ratio of 1-1. This is what I mixed up for the bedding.
WRONG.
It's 5-2 in volume and 9:1 by weight.


Mnbodboy2 has been talking importance of patience when bedding but when my leftover epoxy went into 48 hours and were still very pliable, I got suspicious. Up the fist mistake. This is why we run a tests first. I"lol get it right the second time. I do not think this mix will ever set...

So I removed the action and all was not so good. I feel that if the mix was right it would have been ok. Some of the soft putty stayed with the action. Cleaned right up with mineral spirits. The voids in the picture was what stuck to the action, I hope a result of the sticky mis-mix and my application of the shoe polish release agent.
???

https://s8.postimg.cc/vsj5m4vhx/IMG_1693.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/nzshu5pip/)