110e .270 build help

[TXRoadlizard]

Absolutely a beautiful rifle! My 110 TH .270 has harvested many a deer and I wouldn't trade for it, bone stock. I think .270 is one of the oldest and sadly, least "hip" deer harvesting cartridges out there. I get the buzz around the creedmoors, but I'll stick with tried and true! Mine eats Hornady SSTs and spits them out at 3000+ fps with deadly accuracy.

[DesertDug]

Txroadlizzard, what length barrel you shooting? What do you think about my choice of 25" length?

[mnbogboy2]

The tap that Robinhood showed in his post will most likely be a better alternative. I see eBay lists several like he posted. No shank grinding required and there is more "reach" than mine which is most likely identical to the one in your link.
Cutting the trigger clearance notch after the epoxy dries is a good idea. Because I use the studs instead of action screws the pillars do not twist as only the nut/protective washer turns as they are "snugged" up.
Also the thread you found is full of great info. I was even surprised to see that sharpshooter treats centerfeed magazines the same way I do by cutting the "ears" off the tab.
My guess is you have a staggered feed mag so that part wouldn't apply in your case.
You are on the right track with all your research.
Later,
Randy

[DesertDug]

My 110e action is staggered feed blind box top feed.

Some questions, do I need to remove the attached box and triger assembly from the action to bed?

Triger is old three screw with wire spring. It was set up when I got it. Not sure of pull weight that it is set up at, but there is no creep or over travel. I am use to a two stage geissele ssa triggers in my ar builds. We will see if this first bolt action build of mine gets a trigger up date.

[Robinhood]

Just a thought, if you have some wood clamps, you might want to squeeze a laminate or older wood stock to keep it from splitting when drilling. Im not a woodworker but maybe one will chime in.

[DesertDug]

Would ya share where to find this? Can on find in Merlin tools catalog. Link would be helpful, sin needs my google voodoo seems to be lacking...



Wouldn't that be a tapered tap?





Use a 13/32 or Y letter drill then tap and you wont have to grind the shoulder off.
The tap you want. 1/8 -27 NPS
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fi%2F11078 4827549-0-1%2Fs-l1000.jpg&f=1

[Robinhood]

Try ebay

[DesertDug]

Ok, I think this one is a type s 1/8-27 npt tap with long throw and looks to be tapered.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-New-HSS-1-8-27-NPT-Tap-Right-Hand-Thread/371923400870?hash=item56985cb8a6:g:GiwAAOSw9VRZ4BI z


i guess I am confused. Does the s stand for straight? Or do I want a tapered tap. Can not find any y taps?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-New-HSS-1-16-27-NPT-Taper-Pipe-Thread-Tap/371923394271?hash=item56985c9edf:g:I8UAAOSwvmRa4ry L

[mnbogboy2]

The "Y" Robinhood was talking about is the tap drill size (letter drill size). He also mentioned that a 13/32 drill will work.
The taps you show are both npt (national pipe tapered). You are correct nps designates straight thread. The two you show should work but I glanced through ebay's listings and did see 1/8-27 nps also. If you do choose an npt the longer the "thread" section the better, especially for the rear screw, because it will have less tendency to "walk".
Randy

[mnbogboy2]

The longer npt tap will have an advantage of easier starting. Also the tapered tap may provide the looser fit talked about in an earlier post. The looser fit allows more room for epoxy and positive alignment (using my "stud" method).

[DesertDug]

Ok finally got the NPT and NPS tap thing straight.

For beding I will need to remove the attached blind mag. box. A search resulted in this good article of how to do this:

http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?269-How-To-Remove-Your-Blind-Mag-Body-and-Follower-(SF-and-CF)/view/2

[DesertDug]

BUSTED MY FIRST NUT! Wheeler action was waiting for me when I got home from work tonight and white a couple of wacks it was free. None of the shavings that others have found on stock barrel, I guess it may have been removed by original owner but who knows.

Afterwards I tried to remove blind box from action using method found in link above, but no luck as of yet.

Found go go no go gauges in stock at brownells so I order those during lunch. We will see how PGT is with cancled orders....

Anyone have a good method of removing a blind magazine they would like to share?


Oh, the original recoil lug is far from flat. Very visible while laying on a flat surface.

[mnbogboy2]

The link showing mag removal is pretty much right on, but maybe too much information.
The mag box is made of "spring" steel. The twisting of the screw driver is to spring the box so the tab can clear the slot in the receiver. Once the tab clears a slight prying in the same twisting motion will lift the tab away from the slot. At this point the box can be forced away from the action.
Once you do it once you will see how simple it is.

The factory lugs are stamped from a sheet of steel. This is how the "key" was formed at the same time.
Depending on the condition of the punch & die at the time of manufacture will determine how it turns out. But the nature of the beast will always leave thick & thin areas. The advent of the Tupperware stocks also have helped take their turn in bending the lugs. The soft stocks bend on recoil and in turn the lugs bend after reaching their elastic limits (because pressure is applied at the bottom of the lug). Your walnut stock once properly bedded will combat these bending forces by placing most of the stress on the lug in shear at the junction of lug & receiver.

One added piece of lug trivia. I recently purchased a barrel off a weather warrior. The lug he sent with it had the "key" spot welded (or brazed). The lug was very uniform in thickness and flatness!

[DesertDug]

Got the box off. Had to place the screwdriver in a vise and turned the receiver on the pivot point.
Now on to the trigger removal. Is it best the remove the trigger from assembly then the rest of the assembly, or remove all at once.

[mnbogboy2]

Pull the sear pin and remove all at once. All I can say is pay attention to the order and location of the small parts (sear spring & safety parts). We all go through this during the first one or two. There is lots of help on here for reassembly. My memory isn't like it used to be but taking plenty of pictures for reassembly reference won't hurt.

[DesertDug]

https://s8.postimg.cc/serxs5ydx/IMG_1676.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/gpny477f5/)

trigger removal success. Is it worth the up grade on trigger to say a sav1?

would love to have action face tried, tools not available.
Is there anything that I should do that could be done with limited tool access?
https://s8.postimg.cc/m12up2e45/IMG_1679.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/hf6qgpskx/)online photo hosting (https://postimages.org/)




How does this action look to you all? Is this just normal wear?

https://s8.postimg.cc/fonpesns5/IMG_1668.jpg (https://postimages.org/)windows 7 screen shot (https://postimages.org/app)

https://s8.postimg.cc/ad8su3h51/IMG_1677.jpg (https://postimages.org/)host images (https://postimages.org/)


Lastly here are some shots of the original stock and new stock. Original had lug bedded and I discover this mini pillar for the from action screw on it.
https://s8.postimg.cc/i5zgm7sat/IMG_1666.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/5rcolw0sh/)


[/IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/5elafqsth/IMG_1665.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/plyq81qap/)screenshot utility (https://postimages.org/app)


https://s8.postimg.cc/hggo9v76t/IMG_1667.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/o6x5jauch/)

[RustyShackle]

You could run the face over a 1000 grit sandpaper that is placed on a very flat surface. Use light circular motion. It won’t help true the action but it will square the face. You will likey find high spots.

[mnbogboy2]

The sav-1 is a step up from the 3 screw in my opinion. But you can change the spring wire on the 3 screw and have a pretty good trigger for little additional cost. Search on here and find the name of the "fishing" lure that some have robbed spring wire from (forgot the wire gauge).
Both triggers and the Timney ( IMHO )are great for hunting. The Sav-2 trigger or SSS is far superior if you need to get less than 2 lbs. and will be more suited for target shooting.
Randy

[DesertDug]

Liquid deacon vs putty?

Is it necessary to get the one pond putty or do the liquid tubes work just fine? Please share your thoughts on this one,

[DesertDug]

You could run the face over a 1000 grit sandpaper that is placed on a very flat surface. Use light circular motion. It won’t help true the action but it will square the face. You will likey find high spots.

Would this be improvement or is there a chance I may booger things up?