Lighter bolt lift for my 12LRP?

[Jmccracken1214]

Ive got a 12 LRP that was originally a 6.5CM, I recently put a criterion 6mm CM barrel on it, PTG bottom metal, soon to change the trigger out... but my only beef with this rifle is the bolt lift. Its not terrible, but compared to my R700 action, its pretty heavy. Too the point, during matches, when trying to stay on target or as still as possible, i cant, i have to lift my head, hold the rifle with 1 hand and cycle with the other.

Is there any way to lighten it up? Like i said, its not terrible, its LOADS better than my standard savage 10 lol but I want it lighter.

[Ted_Feasel]

Ive got a 12 LRP that was originally a 6.5CM, I recently put a criterion 6mm CM barrel on it, PTG bottom metal, soon to change the trigger out... but my only beef with this rifle is the bolt lift. Its not terrible, but compared to my R700 action, its pretty heavy. Too the point, during matches, when trying to stay on target or as still as possible, i cant, i have to lift my head, hold the rifle with 1 hand and cycle with the other.

Is there any way to lighten it up? Like i said, its not terrible, its LOADS better than my standard savage 10 lol but I want it lighter.If it's new you may just need some wear on it. My savage rifles were stiff at first but as they lapped In they became easy to lift and close.

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[Jmccracken1214]

If it's new you may just need some wear on it. My savage rifles were stiff at first but as they lapped In they became easy to lift and close.

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It's about a year old with 700+ rounds through it.

[Robinhood]

You can try the DIY 38 special case boltlift kit or try a pointed set screw through the BAS with a flat spacer. You can purchase both or make your own. For the best results shortening the BAS or adding a spacer between the handle and the face of the screw helps.

The best option is Fred Moreo reprofiling the cocking ramp when performing his well known Timing and True...TT as it is called. An improved bolt handle helps as well, providing a little more leverage. Fred is the one stop shop if you want someone to do it for you.

Lambeth style. (access to machinery and this is a DIY if you can hold concentricity)
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fpacifictoolandgauge.com%2F4203-large_default%2Fnat-lambeth-inspired-savage-bolt-accessory-kit-w-o-handle.jpg&f=1
What most people do...
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.static.flickr.com%2F2683%2F4 403709754_4c17c18ea3_o.jpg&f=1
The rim sits on the edge of the cocking sleeve. Both of these idea's functionaly increase the amount of spring preload and in my opinion, shortening the BAS or adding a spacer is the only way to do the job correctly.

[Ted_Feasel]

It's about a year old with 700+ rounds through it.It should be lapped in by now then:)

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[Robinhood]

I guess I should have given the cause of friction that 2 of the solutions I provided will eliminate. The cocking sleeve is approximately 7/16ths in diameter. The circumference rides on the face of the BAS. This contact supports 90* of rotation lets say 5/16ths of an inch of metal on metal sliding with spring tension being applied. The center point of contact creates a small fraction of the area of metal to metal contact.

Fred goes a step further utilizing the lift kit and he reduces the cocking ratio by in my own estimate 20%.

The next thing is how the timing on the handoff of the sear to the trigger on bolt closing. I'm no expert but I have found the profile of the detent for the cocking pin on bolt close is critical here.

Someone please correct me or add to it if I missed something.