6.5 swede in standard bolt head

[zloe]

Headspacing gauge and a live cartridge will fit in bolt head, but only if I bypass the extractor manually..

Case/headspace gauge will not "click" past extractor if I place the headspace gauge or live round in barrel and gently close the Bolt.

I know the swede case is a little bigger than a 308.but it look like it should fit. It appears it gets hung up on the extractor???

Any thoughts appreciated. I will try to chamber it with another Bolt when I get home...

[Mthomas90]

I always remove the extractor when headspacing.
My factory .473 bolt head worked fine with lapua swede brass.
Maybe your extractor needs a little polishing?

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[Robinhood]

When you say gently you mean with not enough force to get the extractor over the rim. Try normal force.

Are you using an oversized detent ball on the extractor?

[Evlshnngns]

My swede had a hard click going over the extractor. This is with ppu and lapua brass. I ground a lite radius on the the face of the extractor, I believe there where marks from the larger case hitting on the flat instead of the bevel. It is only a 6$ item,low risk, and it works better now.

[zloe]

Should have said I gently increase pressure to the point I think the brass will start deforming, the headspacing gauge leaves a little mark in the extractor actually. I tried filing that down which didn't have an effect...
Didn't know they had oversized detent balls! I'll try another bolt and see how it goes.

[Evlshnngns]

I wouldn't stress over the gauge fitting with the extractor.

[zloe]

My swede had a hard click going over the extractor. This is with ppu and lapua brass. I ground a lite radius on the the face of the extractor, I believe there where marks from the larger case hitting on the flat instead of the bevel. It is only a 6$ item,low risk, and it works better now.
Sorry, what is a $6 item? The extractor? So you curved the face of the extractor if I'm understanding correctly? Sounds like a decent idea. I am able to close the bolt on a cartridge and I even fired one so I have a once fired case instead of playing around with a live one.

[mnbogboy2]

Yes, he was talking about the extractor. The detent ball & spring are extra of course. Midway USA usually has them. They say the parts are cheaper directly from Savage. In another thread on here I was just talking about how some last and some don't last so long. It pays to keep a spare (at least for me).
good luck,
Randy

[zloe]

I always remove the extractor when headspacing.
My factory .473 bolt head worked fine with lapua swede brass.
Maybe your extractor needs a little polishing?

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I've heard that but if course had to learn the hard way that extractor always should be removed when headspacing. I really think this was the cause of the problem. The HS guage marred the extractor when I attempted to close the bolt and then the actual cartridge would hang up on that mark. After I smoothed it out a bit, it worked much better. A little stiffer than my other 10/110 savages but it works now.

In fact I was dumb enough that I marred 2 extractors. I pulled a spare one and put it into the Bolt head to compare the feel and after cycling a few cartridges, decided to lock the barrel down good. Then checked with headspacing gauge a final time, left the 2nd extractor in the Bolt head of course and marred a 2nd one. It had the same problems as the first after that.

Lesson learned. Take the time to remove extractor and firing pin.

[tobnpr]

Headspacing should be done on a stripped bolt, with no resistance from a fp spring, extractor or ejector.
It's impossible to feel light resistance/contact otherwise.

[zloe]

Headspacing should be done on a stripped bolt, with no resistance from a fp spring, extractor or ejector.
It's impossible to feel light resistance/contact otherwise.
Hey just wondering, when are you needing to feel "light resistence/contact"? Also, what's an fp spring?

I've considered headspacing complete when it will close on the go gauge, and won't close on the no-go-gauge.

Let me know if I'm missing something.

[mnbogboy2]

You are correct, if the go goes and the no-go doesn't you are in the acceptable SAAMI range. However this could be as much as .006" difference or more depending on the caliber. Extra headspace at initial firing, (even if dies are set correctly afterwards) allows for unnecessary case stretching.
Personally I usually prefer a "snug" (light resistance) go gauge setting. If trying to "match" two or more rifles with the same sizing die setting then a looser go-gauge feel might be required.
This light resistance contact is the minimum headspace of the go gauge.
Tobnpr was referring to the firing pin spring (fp). personally I do not remove it, but there is some resistance to bolt closure when it is cocked. Most headspace gauges have a clearance hole for the firing pin and settings can be made un-cocked if the trigger assembly is left on during headspacing (right or wrong I do not remove the trigger or uncock).
The ejector spring is more important to remove but after you have "felt" a number of them, a person probably will be able to know where they are at without any dissassmbly. The extractor does not apply any significant pressure once it clears the rim (at least in my experience) but it may in cases like yours where the case actually interferes and then it should be removed.
Most important to me is when the feel of the "snug" fit is there, I always check it with a piece of .002 "scotch tape" on the head of the go-gauge, the bolt should not close with the tape on it.
Good luck,
Randy

[zloe]

Good info. Thanks mnbogboy2 and tobnpr. I also use the scotch tape trick have found it works well when testing against an actual no-go gauge. Amazing that .002 can make that type of difference.

[Zero333]

Masking tape is around 0.004" thick. Exactly the thickness between a go and no-go gauge.