Trigger Question

[Bad Bob]

I have a newly purchased Axis XP with the standard trigger (not accutrigger). Trigger pull is 4.5# and I am attempting to lighten it. I watched several U-tube videos and I am comfortable with cutting a coil off the spring.
HERE IS THE ISSUE:
The spring is configured to have a center projection that fits into a hole in the milled spring recess in the rifles action. If I remove a coil, I will lose that projection since it is the last section of the spring.
Savage has epoxied the bottom of the spring in place so cutting a coil from the other end of the spring is not possible.
Is there any chance that the spring can become disengaged from it's recess if the projection does not exist?? Trigger guru's help me out!

Thanks,
Bob

[Robinhood]

Have you looked at this article?

http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?26274-The-best-way-to-mod-your-axis-trigger-(IMO) (javascript:void(0))



Then there is this product

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCVjIKffjvY

https://www.mcarbo.com/savage-axis-trigger-pro-kit.aspx

[DrThunder88]

I am astonished MCarbo gets away with charging $20 plus shipping for that kit. That's like a 1000% markup for what's included. Even if they're paying retail for the parts, that's still a heck of a markup. If your local hardware store has a decent hardware selection, the parts you really need out of the MCarbo kit are a 3/4" 10-24 set screw and a compression spring that will fit over it without binding. If you want to shim between the trigger body and the trigger support, you could cut those out of plastic from a milk jug.

The one thing MCarbo doesn't include but really should for the price is some sort of shim for the sear hook. When I did mine, I used shim stock and epoxy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJijTbWe2wA&index=3&list=PL6mstF7_2-gm3WnoBZZ1QLpjIeoFWXqg9&t=0s). I'd think a manufacturer could come up with a self-adhesive shim that would work for most Axises. For example, I find a 0.008" shim with JB Weld gives me the cleanest, safe break I can manage. Reducing the thickness of the shim to 0.005-0.006" would take up a lot of creep and still be slam-safe in just about every Axis out there. I screwed around with shim tape not too long ago to see if 0.004" total thickness of both shim and adhesive would make a difference. The answer was "not much", but, by stacking the shim tape pieces on top of each other, I was able to get a pretty good break that was safe and had very little perceptible creep at 3-4 pounds.

[Robinhood]

One thing the Mcarbo does is take the guess work and running around town to find the items needed for someone that is not as experienced or does not have the items and resources to do what someone else can do. For that it is worth it.... And it comes with shims to reduce the side to side trigger slop. This makes the trigger feel more like quality than what it really is, and has the potential to make the release more consistent. Some make videos and are innovative, some watch the vids, buy the stuff and enjoy the success.

I have always appreciated the trouble the DR has gone to to help others but I have always wondered why someone would go to the trouble with the sear shim and epoxy when a hone on the top of the upper shelf would reduce the creep.


'Merica.

[big honkin jeep]

I have always appreciated the trouble the DR has gone to to help others but I have always wondered why someone would go to the trouble with the sear shim and epoxy when a hone on the top of the upper shelf would reduce the creep.
'Merica.

Just my thoughts but try reducing the "upper shelf" and you'll find out that it's very hard to do by hand and one stroke too much and it's pretty much irreversibly damaged. using an adhesive shim though not as perfect or permanent is easily reversible to factory spec. Comes in handy if you mess up or want to sell.

"If your local hardware store has a decent hardware selection, the parts you really need are a 3/4" 10-24 set screw and a compression spring that will fit over it without binding."
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS
It'll make a good bit of improvement for about a buck.
Keep the factory spring whole and you can put it back to factory if you ever need to.

[Robinhood]

Well Bob, get your shim set, nippers your JB Weld, run down and get you a 10- 24 set screw, some loctite( or fingernail polish) and go to work.


Actually the cheap spring and set screw is the crux of the job. I like the shims on the sides of the trigger like Thunder shows in the vid. Polishing the sear (not changing the shape) and some trigger grease goes along way to make the creep a pleasure. Triggers don't have to break on first movement.

I did a lot to the 10 triggers with shims to eliminate slop. those are a different animal to get the side play out of though.

[Bad Bob]

Wow! Trigger job using link/s above worked out great. See picture of "kit". I had to go to Ace Hardware, Lowe's and Home Depot to get all the components shown. When I installed the 3/4" setscrew flush with the bottom of the trigger, the trigger bound up and could not be pulled, so I had to remove three threads from the top of the screw with a Dremel tool. After that, no problem.
See pictures of the completed job and a pic of my trigger pull gauge. 2# and safe! I am a happy camper!

[IMG]http://i65.tinypic.com/3127m75.jpgl
[IMG]http://i68.tinypic.com/1z3w5c1.jpg[,
[IMG]http://i68.tinypic.com/2qmznr8.jpg[,