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Robinhood
03-16-2018, 03:36 PM
Wouldn't a hot pot and melting salt be easier, more consistent, and cheaper?

There are some drawbacks like if you have some water in your cases after rinsing or tumbling. Steam expands rapidly and 750* salt burns quickly. In a very safety double checked environment it is a great way to assure consistency. I considered it but the way I have been educated and the dangerous environs that I often work in, I would have a head and face shield on with some protective outer wear on

yobuck
03-17-2018, 08:21 AM
I anneal with the drill and socket method. I use a propane torch with pencil head flame tip, and get everything set up on my reloading table and spin the case neck at the tip of the flame (IN DARK) until I see the neck just start to turn color. The color is like an earth worms head. Not bright red.

I usually do this every other firing. The reason I anneal is because it improves bullet seating pressure on all of my competition loads. If you don't anneal, after many firings you will get fliers. YMMV

As the saying goes, if it aint broke it don't need fixin.
The Anneal Rite system encourages the use of Tempilac, and certainly this method could be used with that also.
As a rule i anneal new brass, assuming there are no signs that it has already been done.
I've had new in the box, but old stock brass with neck splits.
I don't bother doing smaller cartridges like 223.
Reformed brass, especially if it's been shortened, seems more vulnerable to neck splits.
After the initial annealing of the new magnum brass, i usually find myself mostly chucking it for loose primer pockets before i do it again.
That said, I'm not a competitor either.
The bigger issue for average Joe reloader in my opinion, is bullets welding themselves to the the case after sitting unfired for long periods.