20 MOA base for Savage Target model 12 F-class

[coorslight]

My friend just bought a model 12 F-class short action rifle who makes a 20 moa rail, Thanks

[NicfromAlabama]

There are quite a few brands that offer 20 MOA rails. I have a Warne 20 MOA rail on one rifle, which I like. But, others will have their preferences. Some are aluminum and some are steel, and some will be extended bases. So, it all boils down to what your friend may want. Go to MidwayUSA.com and you can see several from which to choose.

[hereinaz]

Warne, EGW, Ken Farrel, Nightforce, Leopold, Weaver, Evolution, Talley, etc... should not be hard to find.

Amazon has a bunch.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Texas10]

Beware that there are some ring/base combinations that don't work well. Let's see if I can quote this correctly...you can put a Picatinny ring on a Weaver base, but you can't put a Weaver ring on a Picatinny base. I use both Weaver and EGW bases with Warne picatinny style rings.

[icker96]

Sharp Shooter Supply specializes in parts for Savage rifles

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

[RP12]

Leupold Mark 4 is my go to base.

[1vakid]

I got one from EGW.

[bobbyj]

I'm kind of in a dark place right now, trying to find one to put on my Pre-Accutrigger M110FP LH with the flat back frame. Apparently they are out of stock, so I hope that changes soon.

My choice is EGW as well, l but at this point, I'll take what I can get.

[Mozella]

My friend just bought a model 12 F-class short action rifle who makes a 20 moa rail, Thanks

I don't see any reason to pay a lot of money for a simple base. I buy mine on Amazon.
As you know, Savage makes several different flavors of actions with a variety of port configurations.
Some of the 20 MOA bases have a small boss on the underside, sort of like a mini-recoil-lug. It's designed to drop into the port and help lock the mount against recoil forces. However, this will NOT fit on my left port Target action, for example, and perhaps some others. (I'm not a Savage historian).
The answer it to put a grinder on your Dremel tool and remove that boss. It is on the underside and won't show. That solution is much better than paying twice as much for the "correct" base without the boss. Just be sure to check the screw spacing specifications.