Axis pillar bedding

[SageRat Shooter]

Come on man! You know o was joking. It’s all in fun and games and I/we appreciate the info. Cheap or not I still don’t want to have to sit and wait on the stock to get here only to have the frustration of screwing it up. I appreciate it. Matt


No worries man... I knew what you meant... :peace:

[Stumpkiller]

I'm sure it helps, but the "lamp rod" tubes are more what I would call bushings than pillars. They may help keep the action-bolts from collapsing the stock; but they aren't large enough to support the action. You can countersink the bolt holes from the action down to almost the surface at the bolt heads and then use mold release wax on the bolts with the smaller "pillars" in place and the epoxy will form it's own pillars in the stock. PS - Use Brownells Acraglas (or similar) for bedding epoxy and not a "soft" epoxy.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEyB9USP-cw



There's a good video on the Brownell's site as well.

https://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/2-gun-acraglas-kit-non-flammable-sku081003004-1033-43789.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-081-003-004&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImLLwh7vQ2AIVXLjACh2UsQtzEAQYASAB EgIi7PD_BwE

[SageRat Shooter]

I just used .5" long steel spacer (front action screw) and a 1" long steel spacer (rear action screw) that you can get at any hardware store. They were the same diameter that Social used on his (I think it was 3/8 or 1/4 inch) I got mine a Lowes... Had to rough up the outside of them so the epoxy would have something to hold onto, and had to take off about a 1/8" maybe less on the rear spacer.

It worked perfectly IMO, and I've done it on both my 22-250 and my 260 Rem.

[GunnyJC]

Well, my stock came in yesterday. I installed the M*Carbo trigger spring kit and put everything together. My next challenge is replacing the scope that came with the rifle with a Bushnell Banner Dusk & Dawn 4-12×40 scope. I had to order a one piece Weaver base (48347). The two piece bases are too far apart to mount it. Also had to order a metal trigger guard.

I'm still pretty leery about pillar bedding the thing. The truth is that I'm not a good enough shot for it to make a difference. I don't plan on thousand yard competition shooting. I just want to make the occasional coyote very dead. Maybe later.

You guys have been a lot of help and I really appreciate you all.

[Stumpkiller]

Worse case you get to try it as is and if you change your mind later you can compare before and after to see if it helped.

Like working up a good reload - change one thing at a time.

[foxx]

It seems like the pillars might need a small saddle sanded into them to match the contour of the action. Let me know if that's the case. Thanks, Matt

Pillars need to be flat on top. If you try to make a "saddle" to rest on, it will be imperfect and actually make matter worse because the pillar will now push the action left or right, inducing stress or binding, wherever the imperfection is. Simply use a flat surface and the curved bottom of the action will naturally rest there perfectly fine. If you choose bed the action with epoxy, the epoxy will fill the gap or curve of the action perfectly without inducing stress.

ALso, pillars are not intended to do anything more than prevent the action screws from crushing the stock material and changing torque. THey are not supposed to
"support the action". No matter how they are designed, pillars are no substitute for bedding and bedding is no substitute for pillaring. Having said that, your rifle may not need bedding. If it does not need bedding, it will not benefit from it.

[Stumpkiller]

Also, pillars are not intended to do anything more than prevent the action screws from crushing the stock material and changing torque. THey are not supposed to
"support the action". No matter how they are designed, pillars are no substitute for bedding and bedding is no substitute for pillaring. Having said that, your rifle may not need bedding. If it does not need bedding, it will not benefit from it.

My bad. They do on a Mauser action with a metal trigger and magazine that form a rigid "box" within the stock. Savage has the recoil lug to hold the action in place.

[tndom44]

I am going to be pillar bedding my axis II into a boyds prairie hunter stock with a v3 metal parts kit next week. Ive talked to a few of the old gunsmiths in my area - southern TN - and they all say to just pillar bed the back and to bed the recoil lug and front pillar. I am also going to bed my metal trigger guard if it doesnt fit flush and keep the barrel free floated - spaced during the bedding. I will let you know if I have any problems. Good Luck with your project.

[chewy1010]

Please do! Thanks

[chewy1010]

Alright fellas, today’s the day! I have my pillars from V3 Precision and the mag catch. So I have my drill press all squared up and ready. I’m going to drill both action hole screws out to 3/8” and install the pillars. Then I just sand the pillars until they’re flush on the screw head side of the stock and in the action bed side? In other words, file and or sand until they are both flush with the stock and grease up the screws install the pillars and epoxy in place? Is that correct? I need a little guidance and assurance. And a little nudge!

[foxx]

THat will likely work as well as any plan. I normally just epoxy them in place, after they are completely set I grind down with a dremel if too proud. Finally I grind away much of the inside to be sure the action screw are not touching the inside of the pillars.

[chewy1010]

As long as I haven’t messed with the action bedding the action should remain the same and the barrel should still be floated, right? On the video he drilled the holes slightly larger than the pillars. To me that could introduce some side to side play that could cause some barrel interference. He didn’t mention anything about that in the video. I know I read somewhere about putting a few strips of blue painters tape down the length of the barrel to clearance it from the stock. Am I over thinking this? Also the pillars are 3/8”. What size hole should I drill?

[Mb1500]

Holes are oversized for pillars because they are filled with epoxy or whatever you're using to secure it to the stock.

[chewy1010]

Speaking of epoxy. I’ve been building RC airplanes for 25 years. Will a good two part epoxy suffice for a simple pillar job or should I at least use something like JB Weld or even more specialized? I know Devcon isn’t that special of an epoxy.

[foxx]

Devcon 10110 is better than the typical Devcon stuff you get from the hardware store. It ain't worth getting for this job, but I would not trust just any old epoxy. Some of it is too brittle and not all that tough for metal work. JB Weld (not the JB Quik stuff) works fine and is about $5 at Walmart, usually a bit more elsewhere.

[chewy1010]

I’m standing here at Lowe’s and can’t find either one! They have Devcon but it’s like a 5 minute epoxy and two racks of JB Quick!

[chewy1010]

Got it! Okay JB Weld it is.