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1vakid
12-28-2017, 10:22 AM
Gotta ask since I don't know. Just ordered a new stock with the aluminum bedding block. I plan on doing just a skim bedding. Have done the skim bedding several times but, never on a Savage. So...Just bed the tang area and the recoil lug?

foxx
12-28-2017, 10:44 AM
Good question.

Actually, do NOT bed the tang. Tang must be free floated.

Minimally, bed the action screw areas and recoil lug. If it is a heavy barrel, maybe bed the first few inches of the barrel as well.

1vakid
12-28-2017, 01:58 PM
Thanks. I thought I had read something about not bedding the tang but, I didn't mention it because I wasn't sure I was remembering right. I just do a skim bed to lend a little support to the thin aluminum rails the stock has for the action to rest on.

foxx
12-28-2017, 02:53 PM
What stock is it? Accustock should not be bedded without fully relieving the side rails so they do not touch the action.

hereinaz
12-28-2017, 05:26 PM
What stock is it? Accustock should not be bedded without fully relieving the side rails so they do not touch the action.True^^^^^

Also, you should make sure the epoxy has something to "grab" if you skim bed it.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Maztech89
12-29-2017, 12:56 AM
I just bedded my new 12FV into a Bobby Hart LRT last week. Here’s how I do all of mine with Devcon after grinding out some material for clearance and drilling several shallow holes to provide mechanical lock. Note that I made zero provisions in the rear pillar area for the magazine clip as this will be a single shot only rifle. The little tab of bedding that extends to the rear on left side is not needed but in my experience doesn’t hurt. The rest of the tang is floated by 2 layers of paint tape which is about 10 thou clearance. It’s not the nicest job as I do my cleanup with a hillbilly milling machine aka Dremel with carbide bits and sanding drums.

edited to add: although there is bedding compound forward of the recoil lug nothing makes contact, it’s all floating above it due to generous use of electrical tape. I just allow the compound to remain to add strength in open areas regardless of how minimal of a contribution it may be.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/maztech89/F374AA09-364C-44BC-85B0-BA8EE786E997.jpg
https://imgur.com/a/cYQUo

RustyShackle
12-29-2017, 01:40 AM
Looks just like my JB Weld skim bedding! I think Devcon might even be slightly stronger. Guess since it worked for
me I never went to lengths to see which product might actually be better*. If any one has the shrinkage factor for both products and the compressive, tensile and ultimate strength of each I wouldn’t mind seeing the values

Mozella
12-29-2017, 06:12 AM
I just bedded my new 12FV into a Bobby Hart LRT last week. ...............snip..........

My 12FV bedded into a Boyd's stock looks nearly the same with a few differences. I put one layer of masking tape on the forward face, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug but I leave the aft face bare. I also bed part of the tang except the aft end which remains in contact with the stock to provide a height reference. The forward height reference is provided by several wraps of tape on the barrel about half way down the forearm.

Because my rifle is for F-class, I filled the magazine well with lead shot sealed in epoxy to increase the weight. The top surface was left a bit low so that the bedding compound covers the lead shot. I epoxied a loading "sled" into the action before bedding because my rifle is strictly single shot.

I fill the barrel nut notches with clay and bed essentially all of the barrel nut. When I clean up the bedding, I carefully clean up any bumps in the area of the barrel nut so that if I ever refit a barrel, I won't have a barrel nut indexing problem.

penna shooter
12-29-2017, 08:38 AM
Great info...Thanks