Precision machined and ground recoil lug in anaccustock?

[70oldsracer]

I have an aftermarket recoil lug on my savage rifle, which is precision machined and parallel ground and .225" thick. I'm putting the barreled action in an accustock and was wondering what was the best way to make it work? My plan was to grind down the aftermarket recoil lug to the exact shape of the recoil lug that comes with the accustock and just open up the aluminum block in the stock to allow for the thicker recoil lug. Just wondering if anyone has done this and if there was another way to make it work.

[Zero333]

The way you want to do it is how most of us would do it too.
Just remember when opening the recess to the thickness of the lug, just open it to the front only.
I know I'm stating the obvious, but what the hell.

Hope you have the original recoil lug that went into the accustock so you can trace it over the new lug before hitting the grinder.

[70oldsracer]

The way you want to do it is how most of us would do it too.
Just remember when opening the recess to the thickness of the lug, just open it to the front only.
I know I'm stating the obvious, but what the hell.

Hope you have the original recoil lug that went into the accustock so you can trace it over the new lug before hitting the grinder.

Yes, that's exactly what I was going to do, trace the old lug over the new. I'm aware of just taking material off the front, but thanks. The recoil lug that I'm using measures .225", so I''ll just minus the original accustock recoil lug and that's how much I'll need to remove from the front of the aluminum body.

Thanks

[70oldsracer]

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/PYPtRp.jpg

I finished the recoil lug today, just need to take .045" from the front of the slot in the accustock to fit the .225" recoil lug.

[Zero333]

Good job.

[70oldsracer]

Good job.

Thanks. It was a bigger pain in the a#* than I expected. Besides enlarging the notch for the recoil lug, I also had to make a notch for the locating pin in the recoil lug. I rounded out the edges of the recoil lug just to make it look nicer and used some cold blue to give it a finished look.
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/922/SozIvt.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/922/sEsxN0.jpg

[foxx]

Rather than notching the stock for the pin in the recoil lug, I would have ground away the lower part of the pin on the recoil lug. As it is, you've removed a good portion of the stock's mating surface to the lug.

[70oldsracer]

Rather than notching the stock for the pin in the recoil lug, I would have ground away the lower part of the pin on the recoil lug. As it is, you've removed a good portion of the stock's mating surface to the lug.

The notch I made for the pin is only .040" deep and .187" wide, there is still plenty of mating surface for the recoil lug. I will also bed the recoil lug, so I think it will be just fine.

[70oldsracer]

The notch I made for the pin is only .040" deep and .187" wide, there is still plenty of mating surface for the recoil lug. I will also bed the recoil lug, so I think it will be just fine.

After I finished everything, I realized that the barreled action wasn't sitting in the stock correctly. Even after torquing it down, I couldn't get the action to sit on the front and rear tabs on the bottom of the aluminum bed. It was getting wedged on the sides. I had to take lay out die and put it on both sides of the aluminum bed. Then I took a piece of pipe that was the same diameter as the action and wrapped it with sandpaper and continued to go up and down the rail until the action touched the side rails uniformly and was able to be pulled down and touch the front and rear tabs while tightening the action screws. Now I will bed the recoil lug and finally be done with it. IMO, not worth all the work.

[foxx]

Yeah... I didn't want to say any more. Accustock is kind of a pain. Bedding the recoil lug without relieving the rails will just be a mess. The Accustock is not like ANY other design out there. Totally contrary to traditional designs. The action is drawn into the rails and squeezed by them as you tighten the screws. It's not a stress free bedding. So, actually, the action and stock was fitting correctly, just not what you would consider right. Read the sticker on the side of the stock "3D Bedding" . Watch one of their videos Savage uses to explains/sells it. They are quite proud of it. I think it works pretty well most of the time, but a few of mine have had to be relieved and bedded. For some reason the actions did not like being squeezed and strangled from all sides! :)

I was going to suggest either shooting it like it is and see what you get or relieving the sides so there is nothing touching but the pillars and center rail, then do a traditional bedding job. It's pretty easy to do because the pillar/center rail pretty much sets it where it needs to be.

[Robinhood]

Why not surface grind the factory lug? Sounds like a good option to me. 80% clean up on both sides get er done.
you will loose the alignment pen. Easy solution with index mark or 2 flute end mill and spring pin.

I also did what you did, but aquired one that already had the parallel profile. The bottom was too long and I had to trim it too.

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/3045-home_default/0500-recoil-lug-parallel-ss.jpg

[70oldsracer]

Yeah... I didn't want to say any more. Accustock is kind of a pain. Bedding the recoil lug without relieving the rails will just be a mess. The Accustock is not like ANY other design out there. Totally contrary to traditional designs. The action is drawn into the rails and squeezed by them as you tighten the screws. It's not a stress free bedding. So, actually, the action and stock was fitting correctly, just not what you would consider right. Read the sticker on the side of the stock "3D Bedding" . Watch one of their videos Savage uses to explains/sells it. They are quite proud of it. I think it works pretty well most of the time, but a few of mine have had to be relieved and bedded. For some reason the actions did not like being squeezed and strangled from all sides! :)

I was going to suggest either shooting it like it is and see what you get or relieving the sides so there is nothing touching but the pillars and center rail, then do a traditional bedding job. It's pretty easy to do because the pillar/center rail pretty much sets it where it needs to be.

Although I relieved the side rails so the action sits on the front and rear pillar, I didn't completely relieve them. The action still gets squeezed from all sides. it's not until I start torquing the action screws, that the action will actually touch the pillars. I tried squeezing the action into the stock by hand, but the sides rails are snug around the action and will not allow it to touch the pillars without actually tightening down the action screws. I felt doing it this way will give me the full potential of the aluminum bedding. I should be able to take the barreled action in and out of the stock and once re-torqued, it should sit in the exact same location every time. I'll know better once I actually shoot it. Torque specs for the accustock are between 40-45 inch lbs, starting from 10 inch lbs, is that correct?

Thanks,

Frank

[penna shooter]

Well done

[foxx]

Once you started grinding on the side rails you threw out any factory specs for what it "should" be. Don't worry about it. Shoot it. If it's accurate, good. If not, fully relieve the side rails and do a traditional bedding job. It will shoot fine after that, I guarantee it.

[70oldsracer]

Why not surface grind the factory lug? Sounds like a good option to me. 80% clean up on both sides get er done.
you will loose the alignment pen. Easy solution with index mark or 2 flute end mill and spring pin.

I also did what you did, but aquired one that already had the parallel profile. The bottom was too long and I had to trim it too.

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/3045-home_default/0500-recoil-lug-parallel-ss.jpg
The reason I did it this way was because I already had the recoil lug and it's thicker than the factory accustock lug. Once you start grinding the surfaces of the factory lug, I'm sure it will get even thinner. The recoil lug you have would have made my life a lot easier.

[70oldsracer]

Once you started grinding on the side rails you threw out any factory specs for what it "should" be. Don't worry about it. Shoot it. If it's accurate, good. If not, fully relieve the side rails and do a traditional bedding job. It will shoot fine after that, I guarantee it.
I realize that, but unfortunately I couldn't leave the stock the way it was. Like I said before, even after I torqued down the action screws down, the action wasn't touching the pillars. The only thing I can assume it that all actions aren't made to the exact same specs. I'm wondering if anyone else has had any issues switching to an accustock.

[70oldsracer]

I realize that, but unfortunately I couldn't leave the stock the way it was. Like I said before, even after I torqued down the action screws down, the action wasn't touching the pillars. The only thing I can assume it that all actions aren't made to the exact same specs. I'm wondering if anyone else has had any issues switching to an accustock.

Thanks for all the continued help guys. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays.

[Robinhood]

Thanks for all the continued help guys. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays.

and to you as well.

[foxx]

Back atcha.

[foxx]

I realize that, but unfortunately I couldn't leave the stock the way it was. Like I said before, even after I torqued down the action screws down, the action wasn't touching the pillars. The only thing I can assume it that all actions aren't made to the exact same specs. I'm wondering if anyone else has had any issues switching to an accustock.

I'm not saying you did anything wrong, I am saying don't worry about torque specs now that you've thinned the rails. They no longer apply. Just shoot it. If it's good, you're good. If it's not, remove more rail so there is nothing touching the action when the action is resting on the pillars and then bed it that way.