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View Full Version : Model 10 bolt dissasembly - any need for me to do this?



wahoowad
09-15-2010, 07:22 PM
My Model 10 instruction manual doesn't appear to describe how to disassemble the bolt or even mention the need to do it for cleaning/maintenance. I assume I need to do this once in awhile if only to wipe it down and apply a light coat of oil. Any instructions someone can link me to? Any special recommended things to do - maybe apply a grease somewhere, polish a known surface area, avoid oiling a spot that gums up?

Thanks

82boy
09-15-2010, 09:40 PM
My Model 10 instruction manual doesn't appear to describe how to disassemble the bolt or even mention the need to do it for cleaning/maintenance. I assume I need to do this once in awhile if only to wipe it down and apply a light coat of oil.
Thanks


No need to ever take it apart. Place a small dab of grease on the lugs, and you good to go.

wahoowad
02-05-2012, 03:04 PM
I would like to apply the grease you mention (normally I apply a light coat of CLP). Where specifically on the lugs? Should I simply rub a thin film of grease all over the lugs, or put a small bead on the surfaces with wear marks?

1jonzmith
02-05-2012, 03:37 PM
The rear of the bolt shaft is a "caming" action". Opening the bolt compresses the firing pin spring. As you have noticed, that is one heavy duty spring and "lifting" the bolt takes a lot of force. You need to apply a very very heavy grease, at gun shows they sell it in tiny tiny screw top containers and call it "machine gun grease". It is one step away from tar and is sticky. Smear some of that on the caming surface of the bolt parts and enjoy the added ease to open the bolt. Lap those surfaces with 200...300...400...800...1000 grit lapping compound and then grease it with the proper grease and discover how very effortlessly the bolt can be raised.

Big problem is "How do you get the bolt apart" cause you need to flush those lapping compounds away after each lap. Get a 10 power eye "loupe" so you can see what you are doing. Coat the lapping surfaces with black Sharpie before each stage so you can see your progress.

You should grease the back surface of the bolt front(locking) lug. The surface that contacts the receiver and holds/pushes the bolt against the barrel.

Good luck,

John

nsaqam
02-05-2012, 03:43 PM
I take my bolts apart all he time for cleaning, inspection, or replacement of parts.

Nothing to it.

If you don't mess with the FP spring there is nothing you can do which would harm anything.

243LPR
02-05-2012, 11:18 PM
How do you keep grease on there when the baffle always wipes it off?

nsaqam
02-06-2012, 05:16 AM
How do you keep grease on there when the baffle always wipes it off?


You put the wave washer between the baffle and the locking lugs rather than between the baffle and the bolt body.
You don't need very much grease at all. A thin layer of high pressure grease will last a long time.

glassbeaver
02-06-2012, 02:02 PM
Interested in this as well. Just picked up a new 10fcp hs precision stock and found the bolt to be... well less than desirable lol. (been a remington guy and this is my first dive into the savage world) Specifically, after firing the bolt requires a great amount of force to draw back. I read on another forum that polishing the "caming surface" greatly alleviates this. Possible to post a pic depicting where exactly to polish/apply grease? BTW... it shoots lights out bone stock. Have only fired 3 groups with it and all 3 can be covered by a quarter. Unreal lol. I've officially been converted. Just need to get this bolt smoother...

nsaqam
02-06-2012, 03:11 PM
If it is hard to lift the bolt then work on the cocking ramp will help a bit but if the bolt is sticky only as you draw it back then the cocking ramp has nothing to do with it.

There are plenty of threads here about a homemade bolt lift kit which uses a 38 Special case and a BB to bear on the BAS (bolt assembly screw)

Haven't felt the need myself for a bolt lift kit but lotsa folks use them

glassbeaver
02-06-2012, 04:31 PM
On my first few shots with this rifle I literally had to knock the bolt back with my flashlight lol. Smoothed out a little after that, but still tough. I'm hoping it's something minor as it's a shooter. Is this normal for savage break in or is this excessive?

earl39
02-07-2012, 12:29 AM
If you had to knock the bolt back it sounds like a long action screw. Pull the bolt and look and feel in the action and see if you can feel the front or rear action screw sticking up even slightly. If so then back it out 1/4 turn and try the bolt. If that fixes it you will need to shorten the screw a thread or two.