Barrel keeps spinning

[jb177]

Trying to remove a barrel and followed instructions in tech articles. Bored hole in a 2x4 and split it down the center making a barrel block. Tightened the blocks down in vise and barrel just spins in the block. Barrel was installed by smith and is a full bull pacnor and hole was 3/4 inch. I even lined the clocks with old rubber boot material.

I know this has been hashed over and over but didn't find much about keeping the barrel still. I hate to pay a smith to remove the barrel.

Any suggestions?

[pdog06]

This is the main reason why I bought an action wrench and no longer use barrel blocks. Im sure you left scuff marks on the barrel also.

I have tried to use some of that non-slip cloth before and it has worked(like the kind that goes in cabinet bottoms). Just put one wrap around the barrel and then put it in the blocks, but you gotta really tighten the blocks.

Where do ya live? Maybe one of us here that has an action wrench will live close to ya..We'd love to help out if possible.

[KRP]

Use hardwood for the blocks...and clamp the action not the barrel as was mentioned. I've got an action wrench if you happen to live anywhere close.

[Slowpoke Slim]

Ditto to all the above. You're not going to get the soft wood of the 2x4 to hold the barrel steel. You need to use hardwood.

Even better would be an action wrench.

Where do you live? Someone here is hopefully close enough to get to you.

Or better yet, just buy an action wrench. Then you'll never need a gunsmith again for barrel swaps.

[geargrinder]

Use hardwood for the blocks...and clamp the action not the barrel as was mentioned. I've got an action wrench if you happen to live anywhere close.


I made some pine blocks once. Bored the hole to fit the action. I put a bolt in the front screw hole to keep it from spinning. Put it all in a vise and smashed the blocks in tight. It worked just fine, but I decided to get an action wrench anyway.

It's turned out to be a good investment. I've swapped a ton of Savage barrels and torn down and built a few Remingtons.

[hailstone]

My first Savage barrel removal was a steep learning curve. Tried everything because a bone headed bubba used thread locker on the scope base threads whereby the front one lies above the barrel threads. Heat wouldn't work, barrel vise nodda, action wrench sheared the bolt holding the action from turning in the wrench. Finally got the brillant idea too spray inside the receiver, front scope mounting hole, barrel nut and recoil lug with Kroil. After setting for 24 hours to soak it came apart easily without cheaters. Been doing this formular every since and never had any problems.

[jb177]

Many thanks.

Tell me more about the action wrench and how it works. I've got a small family of savages and a wrench would be a wise investment especially considering my smith is 50 miles away. If the wrench will solve the problem, I'll order one for sure. I'd rather do it myself, but knowing my luck I'd spring for the wrench and still have to take it to a smith.

BTW, I live in central Arkansas.

[jb177]

I read up on some action wrenches and looks like the cheaper Wheeler one from midway will suffice.

Agree?

[AVanGorder]

Been there, done that.... Try this approach just once. Forget the barrel block stuff and just put a wrench on the recoil lug, lay the thing on the floor and give the nut wrench a good shove with your foot. It will come off. It will bugger up the sides of the recoil lug but who cares, they won't be visible if you reuse it but you'll want to replace the factory recoil lug with a nice ground unit.

Adrian

[LG]

I read up on some action wrenches and looks like the cheaper Wheeler one from midway will suffice.

Agree?


Yes. The wheeler action wrench works fine.

[tammons]

I have a aluminum barrel vise.
I have a piece of 1/4" thick leather I wrap around the barrel.
Got it from tandy. I think it is tool leather.

I dust the leather heavily with confectioners sugar first.

Then I really crank it down and tighten it down.

That works for the nuts I tighten,

Just whack the nut wrench with a hammer and it comes right off.

For a factory or gorilla tightened nuts I do as above and put a large crescent wrench on the recoil lug
and brace that wrench via a pipe etc so the entire rig is locked in place.

It takes quite and effort to get every thing lined up then I give the nut wrench
a solid whack with a heavy copper hammer.

If the locksmith put locktight on the nut, or locktight seeped into the threads via too much in the scope hole screws,
you can have a real hard time of it.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Slip the nut wrench on the barrel. Chuck the barrel in a padded vice. Install the nut wrench at the angle needed and smack it with a "steel hammer". The shock from the rap of steel on steel will transfer to the nut. And when you go back together, it doesn't need to be "that" tight. Worked for me. ;)

[geargrinder]

I read up on some action wrenches and looks like the cheaper Wheeler one from midway will suffice.

Agree?


Yep, spending any more on something else is a waste. They work very well. I've even spun the top around and used it on a Mauser once.

[sinman]

I have used the Savage action wrench on a mauser, remington, winchester, and of course Savage, you just need to be crafty

[jb177]

Thanks guys. Ordering up a wheeler wrench, should be a good investment. I don't care much for the idea of using a wrench on the recoil lug...it's a sharp shooter recoil lug.

[Glock33]

I had the same issue a few weeks ago and this is what solved my problem.

1. Stand barrel upright and soak barrel nut in penetrating oil over night.
2. Powder the inside of the blocks liberally with a rosin powder bag from the baseball section of the sporting goods store.
3. Placed barrel in homemade barrel blocks made from hardwood. In my case is it was cherry.
4. Tighten vise down tight.
5. Pound wrench with dead blow hammer several times. (Barrel slipped in blocks on mine but you may have more luck than I did!)
6. If step 5 failed remove the barrel from blocks and apply more rosin powder.
7. Reinsert barrel into blocks and tighten vice up tighter this time. I wondered if the blocks would crack...
8. Apply some heat to the barrel nut. Enough to cause the oil penetrate more and do it's magic but not super hot. You do not want to ruin the bluing or change the color of the barrel!
9. Pound the wrench with the dead blow hammer again and the barrel nut should start turning.
10. If step 9 failed repeat oiling and heat and try again.
11. Remove from vice and clean barrel with paint thinner or something similar to remove the rosin residue and re-oil to prevent rust.

[pa_wdchuckhuntr]

I've resorted to a short blow air hammer twice on factory blued on barrel nuts. I just stuck a dull chisel tip bit in one of the grooves on the nut, while the barrels clamped in a vise, and pulled the trigger. It spun the nut off slicker than sh*t, and even if it damaged it a little I was going to replace the nut anyway. It's like trying to take a stubborn nut off a car or piece of equipment. You can beat and pull on a wrench all day; put a good impact wrench on it and life gets a whole lot easier.

[AVanGorder]

..... and before you put it back together, be sure to apply some anti-seize on the threads. Below is a link of one source.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=39532/Product/Loctite_reg__C5_A_reg__Anti_Seize_Lube

Adrian

[okie2]

On the hard wood blocks I had to use brown sugar and it worked.
later I was told sweet & low works too.
I think 2 gorillos put my savage barrel on.

[gunner45]

Does anybody make an open ended barrel nut wrench? I have to take my scope off every time i want to change barrels.
Or does anyone know a trick to avoid taking the scope off when changing barrels?