Tuning A Savage Action?????

[CaptnC]

I know a guy who inherited a gunsmith's shop. He kept everything and makes some really accurate guns for himself...he is not in the business...just for fun. Lucky dog!

Anyway I ask him what is done to tune a Savage action and didn't know. I read one thing somewhere the trued the action and trued the barrel nut...I've also seen where a guy D&T his barrel nut for a set screw....I'd like to know more about that. I think he mentioned it made it easier to change barrels. But I keep seeing people say you must replace the barrel nut with every barrel swap?!?!?!?!?

Is it even worth trying to tune?

Any help would be appreciated!

[m12lrs]

SSS time and true
http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?161-Fred-Moreo-Timging-Truing-Explained


savage action screw torque tuning

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/12/tuning-savage-actions-using-action-screw-torque-settings/

[Ted_Feasel]

I know a guy who inherited a gunsmith's shop. He kept everything and makes some really accurate guns for himself...he is not in the business...just for fun. Lucky dog!

Anyway I ask him what is done to tune a Savage action and didn't know. I read one thing somewhere the trued the action and trued the barrel nut...I've also seen where a guy D&T his barrel nut for a set screw....I'd like to know more about that. I think he mentioned it made it easier to change barrels. But I keep seeing people say you must replace the barrel nut with every barrel swap?!?!?!?!?

Is it even worth trying to tune?

Any help would be appreciated!Savage Chambers in actions are pretty tightly tuned already you can do some trigger work to them but especially their Chambers have extremely tight tolerances which makes reloading for them very simple because even when I do have to eventually full-length resize it doesn't have a dramatic effect on the accuracy of the round

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[hereinaz]

If you screw on a barrel headspaced and loctite the nut to the barrel, then you can take the barrel off and when you spin it back in the reciever, it goes back to the same position. Also witness marks to confirm.

I imagine the drill and tap serves the same purpose.

Not 'everyone' says you gotta replace the barrel nut...

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[Robinhood]

You can true the face of the action and lugs to the center line of the bolt. you can trim the back of the bolt head lugs and cut the face of the bolt head. You could single point the threads to where everything is in the same axis. I would make sure to mark the threads with die and clean up less than 50%(arbitrary number used to indicate minimum stock removal required. If too much is taken off then custom threads will be required on any barrel intended for that action). After everything is trimmed the bolt can be tested for primary extraction, this is corrected in the mill by removing material from both surfaces that capture the bolt handle. You can add the bolt lift kit. Both require the modification of the BAS . The Rayhill style needs the BAS shortened. The Nat copy is drilling and threading the BAS to put a rounded set screw or a set screw with a close fitting bearing ball, this mod needs a flat smooth spacer between the cocking sleeve and the BAS. You can make a fixture to true lugs by cuting a piece of material to the size needed to thread. Tap the end for a 1/2 pipe plug, slit the end 1 inch deep 0 and 90 degrees (looks like a plus sign on the end) screw the plug in finger tight, thread the OD to a close tolerence. Srcew on your nut and tighten the plug skim the face. Donskey

[RC20]

Or you can use the old lug, old nut, put a good barrel on it and have a grand time.

By the time you get done with all the "you cans" you might as well buy a custom rifle that has all that and cost less.

Savage seem to do pretty good shooting with factory guns.

[Texas10]

Is this the kind of tuning you're thinking of? http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?7273-Barrel-Tuning

[CaptnC]

I was thinking about lapping lugs...truing the face of the receiver. Any other not so well known to the average guy that wouldn't require a total revap job.

I know it's a "floating" bolt head, so re-facing the bolt face should not be necessary.

[Deadshot2]

Or you can use the old lug, old nut, put a good barrel on it and have a grand time.

By the time you get done with all the "you cans" you might as well buy a custom rifle that has all that and cost less.

Savage seem to do pretty good shooting with factory guns.


I bought a pretty inexpensive 10T from Cabela's and didn't see a lot of work needed to "true" anything. Shot out the factory barrel which was quite rough to begin with and replaced it with a Benchmark.
cocking piece
Rather than screwing around with "truing" I merely installed the barreled action in an MDT Chassis (Tac-21) and shot it a bunch more.


FWIW, a bolt lift Kit from PT&G is good to go out of the bag, no machine work required. If your rifle has the cocking indicator on the firing pin, just cut it off where it joins the cocking piece. That turns it into the earlier style and the Bolt lift kit will work just fine.

[Texas10]

I had a model 10 action faced by a local gunsmith, just cause it seems like the thing to do and I was building a new gun for target shooting. Not sure I would do it again. Reason?
Looking at the front face of the action, I can see that it has been work hardened and embossed with some kind of rolling tool, and I'm not sure cutting that feature out is the best thing to do. So on my most recent build, I lapped that area smooth with 1000 grit and a flat plate just to remove the ridges around the work hardening left by the tool. Far as I could tell, the embossing was perfectly concentric and flat and what I was doing was probably un-necessary. But it gave me confidence in the action.

[sharpshooter]

I had a model 10 action faced by a local gunsmith, just cause it seems like the thing to do and I was building a new gun for target shooting. Not sure I would do it again. Reason?
Looking at the front face of the action, I can see that it has been work hardened and embossed with some kind of rolling tool, and I'm not sure cutting that feature out is the best thing to do. So on my most recent build, I lapped that area smooth with 1000 grit and a flat plate just to remove the ridges around the work hardening left by the tool. Far as I could tell, the embossing was perfectly concentric and flat and what I was doing was probably un-necessary. But it gave me confidence in the action.

I don't know how you came to that conclusion, but you're seeing things that are not there. Nothing on the receiver is "rolled" or "work " hardened.