New guy, first build!

[MisterGrubbs]

I have already committed to the barrel. While I am listening to all of your recommendations, I am also forming my own opinions as to what to do

[MisterGrubbs]

In lieu of what I've been reading(and trying to be a cheap ass), I am going to be re-using my nut and lug as I do not have a smooth nut. I have also corresponded with a local gunsmith who has many years building savages, and for what I'm wanting to do, I do not believe there's enough gain from switching those two components.

Barrel is ordered, it is a 24" #4 contour Wilson barrel. I will be running a JP Tank brake(had one laying around) on the rifle. I will also be grabbing a Boyds At-One stock and doing the bedding myself.

Once the rifle is together I'll report on how it shoots. I have some of the Hornady 147gr Match and 143gr ELD-X precision hunters to shoot through it.

Side note, if anyone has a use for the ugly original wood-style stock or the 17 3/4 308 barrel(rifling looks fine, but looks like some dumbass just chopped the barrel) those are available. Make an offer.

[MisterGrubbs]

Got the barrel and brake in

Here's how it breaks down

Boyd's At One Stock in Coyote
Wilson 24" #4 contour barrel in 6.5
Impact muzzlebrake
EGW 20MOA base
Atlas Worx DBM
Rifle Basix Trigger
Vortex precision 1" rings
Vortex Razor LH 3-15 scope

Action, base, rings, scope, barrel, and brake are all currently getting cerakoted and I'll be ordering the stock shortly.

Used OEM barrel nut(sorry)

Side note : glad I decided to alter this thing. Took it to the shop and when it was put on a vise, the barrel nut wasn't even hand tight. It literally just spun off :oops:

[Mozella]

Save your money and use the Savage recoil lug and barrel nut. Yes, you can buy better ones (I do that myself), but any improvement in performance will be so small that you can't measure it, especially if you're shooting factory ammo. If you want a light gun, you're gonna' have a small barrel and that will have a much greater negative effect on accuracy than using a factory barrel nut. Plus if you are forced by budget constraints to buy an inexpensive barrel, you can't count on keeping up with the big dogs when it comes to competitive shooting.

On the other hand, if you're going to carry the gun around in the field for the purposes of hunting, the last thing you want is a real target gun. As others have pointed out, you can't make a gun which will be a good hunting weapon and a good target gun too. However, you can have some fun ringing steel at moderate to semi-long ranges; longer than you'd want to shoot one of God's little furry creatures anyway. For that, your hunting gun will serve if you don't mind your buddies doing better with their heavier, target guns. If you're into long range hunting, then learning to hit a long distance steel target on the first, cold bore shot is a very good idea. Killing animals is just fine with me, but the operative word is "killing". You will be judged someday if you think that wounding animals is funny.

You can do just fine with a Boyd's stock but you should plan on bedding it.

I'd say you're off to a good start. Just don't count on winning any F-Class matches. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't give it a try. All you need is a rest or bipod and an old moving quilt. Find a low-key local match and ask for help. I guarantee you'll have fun and if nothing else it will be good training for bagging Bambi at 500 yards.

[MisterGrubbs]

Save your money and use the Savage recoil lug and barrel nut. Yes, you can buy better ones (I do that myself), but any improvement in performance will be so small that you can't measure it, especially if you're shooting factory ammo. If you want a light gun, you're gonna' have a small barrel and that will have a much greater negative effect on accuracy than using a factory barrel nut. Plus if you are forced by budget constraints to buy an inexpensive barrel, you can't count on keeping up with the big dogs when it comes to competitive shooting.

On the other hand, if you're going to carry the gun around in the field for the purposes of hunting, the last thing you want is a real target gun. As others have pointed out, you can't make a gun which will be a good hunting weapon and a good target gun too. However, you can have some fun ringing steel at moderate to semi-long ranges; longer than you'd want to shoot one of God's little furry creatures anyway. For that, your hunting gun will serve if you don't mind your buddies doing better with their heavier, target guns. If you're into long range hunting, then learning to hit a long distance steel target on the first, cold bore shot is a very good idea. Killing animals is just fine with me, but the operative word is "killing". You will be judged someday if you think that wounding animals is funny.

You can do just fine with a Boyd's stock but you should plan on bedding it.

I'd say you're off to a good start. Just don't count on winning any F-Class matches. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't give it a try. All you need is a rest or bipod and an old moving quilt. Find a low-key local match and ask for help. I guarantee you'll have fun and if nothing else it will be good training for bagging Bambi at 500 yards.

I appreciate the post. The gun is primarily for hunting, however I am wanting to use it to slap some steel as I've never had that chance.

I intend to bed the stock.

I have a swivel Harris 6-9 going on it

[SageRat Shooter]

It will shoot man... Maybe better than you can ( that's the case for me anyway). It should be at least a .5 MOA shooter.

[MI223]

I am not a huge believer in a trued nut but for 29ish you can get a lug. I have measered a few with a micrometer and the factory ones are pretty bad.

Like said above you will probably never be able to shoot the difference for me it is just nice knowing you have quality components.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[MisterGrubbs]

I am not a huge believer in a trued nut but for 29ish you can get a lug. I have measered a few with a micrometer and the factory ones are pretty bad.

Like said above you will probably never be able to shoot the difference for me it is just nice knowing you have quality components.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

I understand. But I'm also banging on a budget

[Bigbuckdn]

Touche. I am really having a hard time on the barrel front. So many mixed reviews of the "low end" barrels such as eabco and Shaw scare the chit out of me.

Recoil lug and nut were on the list :)
3 shaw varmit weight barrels all 3 shoot 1/2 inch MOA and 1 sporter 3/4 MOA
all were ordered direct from shaw

[RustyShackle]

3 shaw varmit weight barrels all 3 shoot 1/2 inch MOA and 1 sporter 3/4 MOA
all were ordered direct from shaw

I have a Shaw sporter barrel in 7mm-08 that came from midway...it shoots ragged holes with most all factory ammo that I've run through it, sadly it shoots factory variety so good I haven't reloaded anything to try. The Prvi-partizan 140 grain ammo only shoots about 3/4 moa though =(

[Aaron L]

I have a Shaw sporter barrel in 7mm-08 that came from midway...it shoots ragged holes with most all factory ammo that I've run through it, sadly it shoots factory variety so good I haven't reloaded anything to try. The Prvi-partizan 140 grain ammo only shoots about 3/4 moa though =(


We all have our crosses to bear.:cool:

[RustyShackle]

It far exceeded my expectations! Not everything works out like that though. I've had my fair share of frustrating expierences too. Also if I can't get a rifle/barrel to meet my accuracy requirements it moves down the food chain.