Sharp Shooter Supply Order

[phantomphyxer]

Has anyone received their order from Sharp Shooter Supply lately? I ordered a Competition Trigger and Improved Extractor kit in March and haven't received it yet. I emailed them in April and they said they are working on the triggers but that's the last I've heard from them.

[J.Baker]

They're still working on the triggers last I checked.

[Deadshot2]

For some reason a lot of Savage parts are in short supply. I've been waiting for a few parts that are not available from ANY source, even used from Numrich. Even aftermarket parts are more often or not shown as "Backordered" or "Out of Stock".

Apparently some sudden interest in Savage rifles and parts.

[Robinhood]

For some reason a lot of Savage parts are in short supply

NOOOooooooooooo! The hoarders can't sell 22 ammo, powder or arf's for huge profits anylonger, so they found Savage parts.

[J.Baker]

NOOOooooooooooo! The hoarders can't sell 22 ammo, powder or arf's for huge profits anylonger, so they found Savage parts.

LOL That's ok, Hammer got about a 10 years jump on them with hoarding the .220 Swift barrels.

[Robinhood]

Yes he did. I think I saw him grab another one recently on another forum.

[homefrontsniper]

I got one of there barrel nut wrench, no place to put torque wrench, so now what do I do ?

[foxx]

^^^Put the barrel in a good barrel vise and hit the dang thing a couple times with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and don't worry about it.

[homefrontsniper]

That's my problem I will be worried about it. I like to know if its torqued @ 35 lbs

[Nor Cal Mikie]

All my barrel nuts are SNUG. A slight TAP with a steel hammer on the nut wrench and you're good to go. On my 5 Savage rifles, NEVER had a nut come loose doing it that way. Swapped one yesterday and never even got it to the vice. Laid it on the carpet, slid the nut wrench in place, smacked it with the palm of my hand and spun the barrel out of the action. Grabbed a new case, dropped it in the chamber, spun the barrel up snug, opened and closed the bolt a few times to check headspace and when I was happy with the closing bolt resistance, I smacked the wrench with the palm of my hand. Stepped out back, popped a couple of rounds so I know things are good to go. Marked the nut, barrel and action so if it EVER moves, I can tell by the marks.
Torque wrench?? Don't need no stinken torque wrench!!

[wbm]

All my barrel nuts are SNUG. A slight TAP with a steel hammer on the nut wrench and you're good to go.

Been doing the same thing for years. Never had a problem with a barrel coming loose.

[Deadshot2]

I got one of there barrel nut wrench, no place to put torque wrench, so now what do I do ?


Go "Old School". My barrel nut wrench has two holes 10" from center to center. These are the holes that engage the barrel nut.

Clamp the barreled action in a vise of your choice, snug the nut a little so nothing moves. Then locate the barrel nut wrench so it's close to vertical. Get a "Fish Scale" and put the hook in the top hole so it will pull the right direction to tighten. Since 10" is 83% of one foot, pull on the scale until it reads 42 pounds. That will yield 35 ft/lbs on the barrel nut. That was how it was done before fancy torque wrenches.

[Deadshot2]

Don't get in a hurry I have an order for a bolt handle and a bolt head for 3 years.

And here I thought I was having to wait a long time for a bolt head from PT&G. Ordered mine the first of May and just the other day they told me it's scheduled to ship the end of June. 60 days I can handle. If I was waiting for 3 years I think I'd be getting in my car and driving to their door with a request for a refund. Even if it took me a few days of driving, it's the principle.

I have no idea how large the SSS operation is but after reading their website I decided I'd be using other sources. The note to just e-mail because they don't answer the phone made me think "One man operation".

Note: a fresh visit to their website doesn't even show a phone number and has an announcement that due to government policies, etc they are back to a "mom and pop operation".

Not meaning to impune the abilities, quality, or integrity of the business but it seems like they aren't really set up to handle the amount of work one could expect by advertising on the Internet. Sometimes businesses suffer from too much success and long wait times ensue. Three years however seems excessive.

[LoneWolf]

That's my problem I will be worried about it. I like to know if its torqued @ 35 lbs

I used to use 30-35 ftlbs. Last year at the South Eastern Precision Rifle Club Series Finale in Finger, TN at K&M Shooting Complex day 1 was a beautiful 70* day and the rifle was just a laser all day finishing day 1 in the top 10. Day 2 we woke up to a 17* morning and it never got over 24*. Couldn't hit a thing all day....... About a month later I took the rifle back out to try and figure out what was going on and as I was getting ready to give up on the barrel that only had about 500rds on it at the time I found as I moved the rifle by the barrel that it had come loose. and that's why I was unable to hit the broadside of a barn all day at the match on day 2. I now use 60ftlbs because of that and check my barrel before every match I travel too. I've done at least 20-30 barrel installations and that is the only time it's ever happened to me. I will do my best to ensure that it's the last time.

[Deadshot2]

check my barrel before every match I travel too.

That's not a bad idea for anyone who uses the lower torque settings. I'm not a major fan of heavy torque settings due to increased stresses possible but am totally aware that several heat/cool cycles can end up with things loosening up. Recently had a Muzzle brake do that very thing. Luckily it was equipped with a pinch bolt so I didn't have to increase the torque, merely tighten the pinch bolt a small amount.

I've pretty much gotten into the habit of checking torque on all screws on my rifles on a regular basis. From action screws on up to to the scope cap screws with everything in between. Usually everything is snug but every once in a while-------

[Robinhood]

Go "Old School". My barrel nut wrench has two holes 10" from center to center. These are the holes that engage the barrel nut.

Clamp the barreled action in a vise of your choice, snug the nut a little so nothing moves. Then locate the barrel nut wrench so it's close to vertical. Get a "Fish Scale" and put the hook in the top hole so it will pull the right direction to tighten. Since 10" is 83% of one foot, pull on the scale until it reads 42 pounds. That will yield 35 ft/lbs on the barrel nut. That was how it was done before fancy torque wrenches.


This brought back some crazy memories of the days when I worked fro a company that made tubing string products for expensive offshore oil wells.


Lisa emailed today and said her brother had passed away and she got behind on her emails, she also said my bolt handle was ready and Fred was doing the bolt heads this week. And should ship next week.��
Handi204

Everyone who has worked with SSS has dealt with Lisa. She must be an angel to put up with all the crap I read on this and other forums.

Lisa if you are reading this, prayers for you and your family and I know any decent person who has worked with you before has you in their thoughts in this difficult time. Bless you.

[Texas10]

^^^^^ Yes, what RH said, and I'd like to add that I recently ordered two improved ejection kits and Lisa immediately returned my call and shipped same day. What's not to love about that kind of service?

Best wishes to Lisa and her family and friends.

[homefrontsniper]

I used to use 30-35 ftlbs. Last year at the South Eastern Precision Rifle Club Series Finale in Finger, TN at K&M Shooting Complex day 1 was a beautiful 70* day and the rifle was just a laser all day finishing day 1 in the top 10. Day 2 we woke up to a 17* morning and it never got over 24*. Couldn't hit a thing all day....... About a month later I took the rifle back out to try and figure out what was going on and as I was getting ready to give up on the barrel that only had about 500rds on it at the time I found as I moved the rifle by the barrel that it had come loose. and that's why I was unable to hit the broadside of a barn all day at the match on day 2. I now use 60ftlbs because of that and check my barrel before every match I travel too. I've done at least 20-30 barrel installations and that is the only time it's ever happened to me. I will do my best to ensure that it's the last time.


Ok, going from 35'lbs to 60'lbs of torque, was your zero (accuracy) the same? Did it move ? Up ..down. L.R ?

[LoneWolf]

Ok, going from 35'lbs to 60'lbs of torque, was your zero (accuracy) the same? Did it move ? Up ..down. L.R ?

Everything was the same, but I did have to rezero as I tested for a scope issue before I figured out it was a barrel.

[J.Baker]

I look at it this way, whatever torque setting makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside is the one you should use.

- Savage torques them to 70-ft/lbs at the factory, but they don't expect the same barrel to be mounted to the action for the entire life of the rifle.
- I tighten my to approximately wrench tight, meaning hand tight plus a good hard tug on the wrench to get it as tight as I can w/o using a cheater bar, dead blow hammer or anything else to get it tighter. Whether that's 20, 25, 30, 35, 40 or whatever ft/lbs I don't care. It works and I have never had one come loose on me.
- Fred uses the same method as above.
- Some folks use a torque wrench and do all the math to get a very specific torque value.

Again, it's whatever works for you and keeps your mind at ease. There really is no right or wrong answer other than if it moves it's loose and if it doesn't it's tight enough.