Changing a barrel How hard is it?

[Robinhood]

High spots... where the action isn't flat so the lug and action don't make full contact.

Look up "truing" an action.yep

You can touch up the face with a fine hone if you know how to use it. A flat surface supports and reduces the chance of the barrel action junction from being a source of accuracy issues. A flat jewlers file will work as well. The goal is to only remove the high spots.

[Texas10]

Is it just the mechanics of changing a barrel you're interested in? Or are you exploring your options with the intent of building a better, more accurate rifle? If the latter, there is a lot you can do that doesn't cost a lot of coin, OR you can spend a fortune on, depending upon your desired outcome, before you start assembly.

I changed my first barrel simply because I'd shot out the original and wanted a tighter twist to shoot heavier bullets with the intent of shooting long range. So I literally bought the barrel, action vice and go gage and was done in like 20 minutes. Kinda anti-climatic after all that waiting for parts to arrive. But I didn't gain much over the performance of the stock barrel as I kept it as originally chambered, and didn't go Ackley improved for instance.

Share your goals with us and perhaps more suggestions will pour in, but beware.....when you start changing barrels, you're about to fall headfirst down a verrrry deep rabbit hole!

Kinda addicting!

[Hawaiian]

Is it just the mechanics of changing a barrel you're interested in? Or are you exploring your options with the intent of building a better, more accurate rifle? If the latter, there is a lot you can do that doesn't cost a lot of coin, OR you can spend a fortune on, depending upon your desired outcome, before you start assembly.

I changed my first barrel simply because I'd shot out the original and wanted a tighter twist to shoot heavier bullets with the intent of shooting long range. So I literally bought the barrel, action vice and go gage and was done in like 20 minutes. Kinda anti-climatic after all that waiting for parts to arrive. But I didn't gain much over the performance of the stock barrel as I kept it as originally chambered, and didn't go Ackley improved for instance.

Share your goals with us and perhaps more suggestions will pour in, but beware.....when you start changing barrels, you're about to fall headfirst down a verrrry deep rabbit hole!

Kinda addicting!

The Ruger barrel is about shot out. Honestly I could not find a prefit barrel for it so I got the Stealth. Just recently found a smith that is making prefits for the Ruger. I've considered a caliber change, maybe a 6 creedmoor. Not to big of a change, but I have a lot of 6.5 brass that I could neck down. I've thought 6.5 x47 too, but at this point is just I have a rifle with a barrel that's gone.
Barrel and tools will probabbly cost more than just buying a new Ruger American but I'd like to learn to do it. Even if it does have me jumping head first down that Rabbit hole. My thoughts are learn on the Ruger because at some point the Stealth's barrel will go to.

[Mozella]

It's dead easy; however, you do need a couple of tools as mentioned above; a vise, a special nut wrench, etc.

Most people don't like to loan tools, but you could pound these particular tools with a hammer without causing any harm and since they're only used very occasionally, people usually don't hesitate to loan them out. I've loaned mine several times. Don't ask to borrow my chain saw, but my Savage nut wrench is available to my friends.

Why not ask around at your local range, especially if you spot a Savage shooter with a non-factory barrel. Chances are, if you look around your local area, you'll find someone to loan you these tools for a one-time use.

[hereinaz]

It's dead easy; however, you do need a couple of tools as mentioned above; a vise, a special nut wrench, etc.

Most people don't like to loan tools, but you could pound these particular tools with a hammer without causing any harm and since they're only used very occasionally, people usually don't hesitate to loan them out. I've loaned mine several times. Don't ask to borrow my chain saw, but my Savage nut wrench is available to my friends.

Why not ask around at your local range, especially if you spot a Savage shooter with a non-factory barrel. Chances are, if you look around your local area, you'll find someone to loan you these tools for a one-time use.
I wouldn't loan tools, but I would have 30 minutes for someone to come to my backyard and help them using my tools to swap a barrel... just not between 11am and 7pm in the AZ summer.

[RC20]

It's dead easy; however, you do need a couple of tools as mentioned above; a vise, a special nut wrench, etc.

Most people don't like to loan tools, but you could pound these particular tools with a hammer without causing any harm and since they're only used very occasionally, people usually don't hesitate to loan them out. I've loaned mine several times. Don't ask to borrow my chain saw, but my Savage nut wrench is available to my friends.

Why not ask around at your local range, especially if you spot a Savage shooter with a non-factory barrel. Chances are, if you look around your local area, you'll find someone to loan you these tools for a one-time use.

Agreed, has not com up but the receiver wrench is bullet proof as is the nut wrench (both NSS)

I won't loan out my once in a lifetime buy of the Snap On Dial It in (not spring set) Torque wrench though!

[RC20]

I wouldn't loan tools, but I would have 30 minutes for someone to come to my backyard and help them using my tools to swap a barrel... just not between 11am and 7pm in the AZ summer.

I would loan and or supervise if it worked. I won't do it for anyone else. Just me and liability aspect.

What I do with the guns when I can't shoot anymore?

Well it probably won't matter, I will sign it all over to my wife and be her boy toy and they can throw me in jail if they want.

[RC20]

repeat

[RC20]

I would go in Savage direction. Rugger is never going to catch up with all the stuff Savage offers. It always will be more extensive and a lot fewer if any options for after market barrels to buy.

I fully intend to shoot enough to shoot out a barrel every 4 year or so and Savage to me was clearly the way to go.

I also never expect to be Dale Tubbs though I dream about it, the Savage setup (maybe more so with an Pre Fit barrel) than I can be.

As long as my equipment is better than I am I am where I want to be.

I believe at this point its me as a shooter and my reloading that can be raised a notch or two in several areas that would make the different.

[Hawaiian]

Why not ask around at your local range, especially if you spot a Savage shooter with a non-factory barrel. Chances are, if you look around your local area, you'll find someone to loan you these tools for a one-time use.
Thanks again guys. Tools aren't a problem, I think I'll go the NSS route. My brother inlaw has a Savage in 308 that he's thinking about converting to a 6.5. So the tools will get some use. The man has worked on my tractor enough times that he can use any tool I own.

I've already got a shooting and reloading addiction. I guess I can handle a barrel swapping addiction. I don't see myself just swapping them out cause I can though.

Unfortunately I don't get to the local ranges much, most of my shooting takes place in the back yard.

[jpx2rk]

Thanks again guys. Tools aren't a problem, I think I'll go the NSS route. My brother inlaw has a Savage in 308 that he's thinking about converting to a 6.5. So the tools will get some use. The man has worked on my tractor enough times that he can use any tool I own.

I've already got a shooting and reloading addiction. I guess I can handle a barrel swapping addiction. I don't see myself just swapping them out cause I can though.

Unfortunately I don't get to the local ranges much, most of my shooting takes place in the back yard.

A back yard range would probably "feed" the barrel swap addiction as much as the reloading and load development and whatever else gun related addictions there are at a lot of locations. :rolleyes:

[hereinaz]

A back yard range would probably "feed" the barrel swap addiction as much as the reloading and load development and whatever else gun related addictions there are at a lot of locations. :rolleyes:
Right, you get the no tears from me that you get to shoot from your backyard hahahaha

[Iowa Fox]

minnesota, I like your vise. What diameter is that threaded rod? Got a pic of it laying on its side so I can see the bottom? Thanks.

[Hawaiian]

A back yard range would probably "feed" the barrel swap addiction as much as the reloading and load development and whatever else gun related addictions there are at a lot of locations. :rolleyes:

Lucky for me my "better half" shares my addiction, just not quite so addicted. It is nice being able to test some loads. Head to the basement and make adjustments and head back out the door.

[Deadshot2]

What should I watch out for? Where are the problem spots that might have me thinking What was I thinking when I thought I could do this?



To me the most frustrating part, and it is with anything you are adjusting and then have to torque a lock nut, is getting the headspace absolutely right on and then torquing the barrel nut. You want to make sure that the torquing of the nut does not a) cause the barrel or action to turn and alter the measurement; b) take up any slack in the threads due to the extra pull caused by a torqued nut. A small issue that can be overcome by just learning how much change occurs from an untorqued barrel nut to a properly turned one. Then just apply the right amount of "windage" before torquing.

Other than that, just having the right tools makes the job pretty routine. BTW, if the barrel nut on your rifle is smooth, plan on replacing it with a "notched" or "grooved" nut. Don't worry about the clamping type barrel nut, just remove the old one with a pipe wrench and use it as a spacer on some other project.

[hereinaz]

To me the most frustrating part, and it is with anything you are adjusting and then have to torque a lock nut, is getting the headspace absolutely right on and then torquing the barrel nut. You want to make sure that the torquing of the nut does not a) cause the barrel or action to turn and alter the measurement; b) take up any slack in the threads due to the extra pull caused by a torqued nut. A small issue that can be overcome by just learning how much change occurs from an untorqued barrel nut to a properly turned one. Then just apply the right amount of "windage" before torquing.

Other than that, just having the right tools makes the job pretty routine. BTW, if the barrel nut on your rifle is smooth, plan on replacing it with a "notched" or "grooved" nut. Don't worry about the clamping type barrel nut, just remove the old one with a pipe wrench and use it as a spacer on some other project.
I found that after setting headspace, tightening the receiver wrench holds the barrel from turning as you put the final torque onto the barrel nut.

[Hawaiian]

Thanks guys I'm taking notes. How much torque is required on the barrel nut? Should it be torqued in increments or just cranked down to the required foot pounds?

[RustyShackle]

I use my "torqued" elbow to set the bbl nut. I usually, in my scientific method, get the bbl tightened on the go gauge, then snug the bbl nut and make sure bolt operation is still smooth. Then I try the no-go, once that checks I give the nut its final torque, and then recheck with go and no-go gauge. Oh yeah, don't exceed 50 ft lbs of torque. I like 40-45

[Phranque]

Thanks guys I'm taking notes. How much torque is required on the barrel nut? Should it be torqued in increments or just cranked down to the required foot pounds?

One of the best answers I've heard to this question is somewhere between a grunt and a grunt-and-a-half....

[jbjh]

Thanks guys I'm taking notes. How much torque is required on the barrel nut? Should it be torqued in increments or just cranked down to the required foot pounds?

Once I get the headspace set, I lay the whole shebang on the carpet, and with the wrench as the apex of the triangle, give it a rap with a rubber mallet.


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